26/06/2012

I Never Read Book Fair

I Never Read Book Fair

When it comes to annual long-awaited art events, if you are an un-experienced visitor, chances are you are getting exhausted and overwhelmed easily. Every art or design fair is exactly like that, and the trick to survive through it is mixing the fancy ones with the relaxed ones. Like that was with Art Basel we visited last week.

On the occasion of Art Basel, “I Never Read”, an independent publishing book fair and new art magazine was launched. The event, lasting three days and gathering a list of more than twenty publishers, was the ideal place for everyone interested in printed matter and independent publishing.

Situated in a fruit warehouse, I Never Read was for many reasons different from the usual ‘independent publishing’ fairs. First of all, the publishers presenting their work varied from small international editors to artists presenting their print work or magazines, classy international bi-annual publications, famous art and design publishers and also a well-known shop-art space from New York.

This mix of works presented gave the fair a positive breeze, allowing anyone visiting the fair to be surprised by the high-quality selection. The warehouse was equipped with beautiful wooden tables and benches made exclusively for the event, with a special wall installation by the most famous of the independent publishers – Zurich based Nieves. The roof-top bar offered a perfect retreat from the hectic main fair.


Among the beautifully produced books, we had to pick out only a few, even though many of them would surely have been a good buy. Among the ones that we couldn’t get, “Mortadella” by Christoph Hänsli published by one of our favourite editors – Edition Patrick Frey and Tauba Auerbach’s pop-up book “2,3” co-published with Printed Matter, surely have a special place in our hearts.

“I Never Read” has offered us a nice experience where high and low profile art were happily sharing a table, not worrying about any pretentious etiquette an event like Art Basel can often impose.

Rujana Rebernjak

26/06/2012

A Narcissism Story for C’N'C Costume National

A Narcissism Story for C’N'C Costume National

Late May in Paris, stylist Anna Schiffel and 2DM Management’s own photographer Tung Walsh, met up with Yuri Pleskun to shoot the new C’N’C Costume National F/W12-13 campaign. Yuri, who has a long list of editorials on his resume (Vogue Hommes Japan, Another Magazine, Vogue Italia and campaigns for Marc Jacobs and Balenciaga, just to name a few) had fellow model colleague Hailey Gates by his side, in this narcissistic but yet appealing story.


C’N’C is the avant-garde street couture collection by Costume National, the Italian fashion house founded in 1986 by Ennio Capasa. Pleskun, who had his breakthrough in a Topman campaign, lets his playful charm shine all the way in the Fall/Winter 2012-13 campaign for C’N’C Costume National. The new, slightly digital approach towards advertising was created at the MK2 Bibliotechque and Le Pompon in Paris, where the dark autumn wardrobe styled by Anna Schiffel is coming to its right. The campaign, produced by Al Dente, shows off a story of self-love and narcissism where Tung Walsh is handing over the camera to the models, letting them call the shots.


Lisa Olsson Hjerpe

25/06/2012

Gina Pane | The Vulnerability of Human Body

Gina Pane | The Vulnerability of Human Body

From 60’s to 70’s the human body was the core centre of many artists’ research, as both the subject and the object of their work. The body was mainly used as a mean of artistic representation and, simultaneously, as an instrument of inspection of one’s interiority. Through the performance, the Wiener Aktionisten – Hermann Nitsch, Otto Mühl, Günter Brus, Rudolf Schwarzkogler –, and other artists such as Gustav Metzer, Raphael Montanez Ortiz, Yoko Ono, Chris Burden, Vito Acconci and Gina Pane, wanted to break the common taboo and challenged the public policy and morality. Actions were shot and recorded with video, texts and pictures, which served as the evidence of the extreme art experiences.

What was really effective in these artworks is the rituality of each act; performances assumed the form of theaters where artists played a sort of a sacrificial comedy focused on their own body. As mentioned above, Gina Pane (1939 – 1990), a French artist of an Italian origin, was one of the main representatives of what is widely recognised as Body Art, the artistic trend characterised by the practise of self-mutilation and sadomasochism. Working with/on her own flesh and blood as an artistic media, Pane laid bare the human body’s fragilities; undressing, hitting, hurting, dirtying her own body, she was able to show the sense of danger and pain.

Gina Pane, with a distinctive composure and a rational attitude, used the sufferance as a way of representing spirituality, carrying a deep emotional and symbolic charge. In Sentimental action (1973), the proto feminist artist, dressed totally in white, takes a bunch of roses in her hand and hurts herself with their spines. The blood dripping on the bouquet turns the roses from white to red. At that point, the artist cuts herself with a razor blade.


An even higher pathos is represented by Action Psyché (Essai), a performance from 1974 – documented by sketches, photographs, notes – where Gina Pane injures her eyelashes to simulate tears of blood, and then engraves her belly. Some prim viewers could be disarmed and shocked by the narcissism, aggressiveness and exhibitionism displayed in such a rough and direct way.

An anthological exhibition of the great artist entitled Gina Pane – È per amore vostro: l’altro is on view at Mart in Rovereto, retracing Gina Pane’s career, from its beginning, through the Actions, getting to the latest works. The show will run until July 8, 2012.


Monica Lombardi

25/06/2012

Pitti Uomo n°82 – The Start Off

Pitti Uomo n°82 – The Start Off

During four hot days The Blogazine attended Pitti Uomo n°82 & Pitti W, running between stands, shows and events, making the most out of the Florentine equivalent to Fashion Week. We saw new young talents and re-visited some that we’ve met before. We made new friends and caught up with the old ones, discovered new brands and got all the insights and stories from behind-the-scenes. Throughout the week it was a joyful and well-dressed crowd full of character that started one of the most hectic fashion periods in Florence together with us.

As mentioned before, it was the Swedish talent Erïk Bjerkesjö who proved his talent and opened the week by winning the Who Is On Next award. The same evening at Stazione Leopolda, Stone Island inaugurated the 30 years retrospective – an exhibition focusing on the company’s tremendous history of research in fabric, sportswear and innovative techniques. The installation and S/S13 presentation by Peter Pilotto offered a wide range of colours integrated in the graphic prints, while Andrea Pompilio and Carven worked with accentuating colours and hints of sportswear inspirations well incorporated in the fine tailored collections.

During the week we discovered remarkable detailing and thought-through products, in which design goes before fashion. Historical research had been transformed into contemporary collections while others went back to the roots and the core of their brands.

Like Mr. Pompilio said after his show on Thursday evening, Florence is a great centre for menswear, and most designers are honoured to be a part of that experience. For the audience that headed to Milan on Friday, and then onwards to Paris, the official fashion weeks for menswear got a great start!

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe 

23/06/2012

Zegna Goes Prints – Exclusive Preview SS 2013

Zegna goes prints – exclusive preview SS 2013

In a few moments Ermenegildo Zegna are going to carry out the S/S13 collection on the runway, available for anyone not in Milan to see through a live streaming as well. It was the new interpretation of silk and the longing for couture that encompassed the collection, when The Blogazine got an exclusive preview in the Zegna atelier.

High-waist slim trousers and sober saddle shoulder jackets underline the well-defined and confident silhouette of the SS13 man by Zegna. The Zegna Silk project is an important part of the summer collection, as well as the banana tree leaves and all over tropical inspired prints. The colours range from classic ivory to blue and gray, accentuated by hues of teal, tabacco and red. The fine silk fabrics have an alternative in the Irish linen, and the look is completed with the moccasins in leather or silk, luggage inspired bags, silk ties and printed scarves.

Even with the sportier part of the collection Zegna manages to keep their elegance, and it’s a laid back but self-assured man we will see at the catwalk today, balancing with fine Italian tailoring and eccentricity.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of Ermenegildo Zegna 

22/06/2012

Persephoni and the Greek Fashion Crisis

Persephoni and the Greek Fashion Crisis

Spending the week in the whirl of Pitti Immagine Uomo 82, we lay the Pitti harvest to soak in our minds for the weekend, and we continue the tour through Greece’s fashion industry in the storm of the economical crisis by interviewing Peni Giannaki and Bill Georgoussis – the couple behind the Greek accessory label Persephoni.

Bill is a fashion photographer and Peni is a set and costume designer, and together these two occupations – combined with their passion for architecture – constitute the world of Athens-based Persephoni.

Peni Giannaki claims that the Greek people are often surprised to hear that Persephoni is a Greek brand, “Persephoni doesn’t have a national identity. However, there is definitely a movement that is coming out of Greece, but we don’t have a cohesive style yet. You could say that the brand is based on an ironic take on Greek traditions and customs”.

Starting out a couple of years ago, expectations on general acceptance from the fashion world were low. However, Browns London, Vogue Italia and Steven Meisel soon put a stop to the doubts. “The big boom came when stores we respected started ordering Persephoni, and the press gave us so much attention so quickly”, Peni acknowledges. However, being a brand based in Greece, the couple has definitely seen the backside to the financial situation.

“As an industry, fashion in Greece never really existed beyond its shores. Local fashion heroes are struggling on their own, but it’s really tough to grow somewhere when there is no fashion substructure or education. The only real industry that does exist are a few dominant high-street brands which compete with big international chains.”

To survive the financial crisis, Peni tells us that they are doing their best to remain calm and positive. “
It is really hard when you realize that your country’s future is hanging by a thread. There are a lot of businesses closing down but at the same time there is a strong business movement driven especially by young people who seek alternative, creative and productive business solutions. We are two of them. The whole financial crisis here is more psychologically crushing than anything else,” he concludes.

“What comes to the future for Greek fashion, I know there are many well-known Greek designers but unfortunately they’re not based in Greece. That makes for a weak fashion ground and future development. But at least it’s good to know that there’s Greek blood running around the international fashion veins.”

Petsy von Köhler – Photo courtesy of Bill Georgoussis 

22/06/2012

Carven – A Perfect Ending of Pitti Uomo n°82

Carven – A Perfect Ending of Pitti Uomo n°82

It was with a sense for details, a good show and with a great portion of humour that the Pitti Uomo 82 Guest Designer Carven (with artistic director Guillaume Henry at the helm) presented the men’s collection last night. The special event was held at the Club Sportivo Firenze in Campo Velodromo delle Cascine; an old-school sports arena, beautifully decorated as a true Italian dining hall in the open air. Accompanied by black and white bow-tied waiters, live music and a sports commentator in the speakers, The Blogazine took part in the closing event of Pitti Uomo, while enjoying a seated dinner and a colourful collection.

Carven is one of the historical French labels that have gained international attention through the artistic director and designer Guillaume Henry’s creative research. The affordable luxury in perfect line with clean silhouettes and contemporary men’s fashion has brought new strength to the almost 70 years old fashion house. Last night’s special event for Pitti was a joyful moment and an unforgettable experience mixing Italian food culture and sport with fashion and laughter. The collection was brought out by male models rushing on foot or on bikes towards the finishing line, accompanied by black-and white suited waiters.

The great range of colours and contemporary elegance were an eminent contrast to the figurant waiters’ suits, and even though more focus was put on the actual show and the whole feeling created by Pitti Immagine and Carven, it was a great environment to show the collection.


Before the start of Pitti, Guillame Henry said that he hoped this unexpected rendez-vous outside of Paris and out of any calendars to be the occasion to express the freshness and the spontaneity that he is trying to forward through the label’s collections for both men and women.

He concluded with the sentence “Shall we meet in Florence, in pleasure and full of joy!” Merci monsieur Henry – we sure did!


Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of Pitti Immagine 

22/06/2012

Andrea Pompilio’s Metropolitan Man Back in Florence

Andrea Pompilio’s Metropolitan Man Back in Florence

In January Andrea Pompilio presented his F/W12-13 at Pitti Uomo n°82, an appreciated collection with an after-following media coverage that was of great help for the young brand. For this edition, Mr. Pompilio was back as one of the special events on the Pitti calendar, presenting S/S13 with a runway show at the Stazione Leopolda in Florence. The designer continued to combine fine Italian tailoring with a fresh metropolitan look where colours and the play with details were in focus.

The Blogazine met Andrea Pompilio for the first time in February for a 4-question-interview and discovered where the inspiration for his contemporary man comes from, as well as the must-wear-item for the “Pompilio man” Summer 2012. After the show last night at Stazione Leopolda, we met with the designer again.

“I love the last looks, and the oversize shirts and the new Capri inspired prints, but no, I don’t have only one favorite item in this collection– it’s so much larger! We showed 26 looks tonight and that is only one fifth of the collection.” About his feeling of being back in Florence with a special event he said, “Right now I am so happy, and so happy it’s over [laughs]! I love Florence, it is a fantastic centre for men’s fashion, and the cool, cheerful feeling during Pitti is unmistakable. Of course I also want to thank Pitti Immagine for all the support, giving me the opportunity of creating this event.”

During our talk Pompilio also mentioned the importance of colour in the collection, as well as the mesh as an important material for the summer collection.


The colours of the collection ranged from toned-down blues, greens, reds and yellow to popping orange and neon yellow. The white crisp shirts had colourful stripe detailing and the shorts were matched with high knee socks with a back-seam-stripe. The show presented a metropolitan look inspired by the real-life-man, balancing on the everyday wear and sport-inspired details.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of Pitti Immagine 

21/06/2012

Delphinarium – A Tribute to Delfina Delettrez

Delphinarium – A Tribute to Delfina Delettrez

Delfina Delettrez, fourth generation Fendi and talented jewelry designer, is not new to The Blogazine. From the We-Men collection in 2010 to the beautiful pieces of Metalphysic, we have been following the steps of this internationally acclaimed and appreciated young designer. Yesterday afternoon during Pitti 82, The Blogazine attended the opening of Delphinarium – A Monographic Exhibition on Delfina Delettrez and got a tour through her world of jewelry.

“The fact that she is one of the most interesting and eclectic Italian artists in the field of contemporary jewelry, the fact that her prolific creativity coupled with an outstanding degree of curiosity and a profound sense of discipline and professionalism (resulting in ten different collections over the course of only five years) is already reason enough to dedicate a monographic exhibition to her – the first.”

These stolen words are an excellent motivation for the initiative of the show, expressing what the viewer will experience when walking through the four rooms at Palazzo Ricasoli in Florence – the new exhibition area of Galleria Antonella Villanova and Galleria Alessandro Bagnai. In addition to the short film Delfinasia directed by Asia Argento and the piece of jewelry made especially for the gallery, the exhibition presented iconic pieces from Delfina Delettrez’s collections between 2009 and 2012. Part of the presentation was an installation about the research of movement and it includes live animals; a beehive, colourful frogs and spiders, complementing the jewelry.

The inedited piece, Slow Emotion, expressively created for the gallery in 6 numbered pieces, marks a bond between Florence and Rome through the iconographic symbol of the turtle. It is a figure that has wide-ranging values attributed to it and which can be seen in piazzas and fountains in both cities. The bracelet showcases a beautiful range of colour and transparency with a nanoceramic finish, in the shape and pattern of a turtle’s shell.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of Delfina Delettrez 

21/06/2012

Peter Pilotto – Graphical Magic for Pitti W

Peter Pilotto – Graphical Magic for Pitti W

Last night Pitti Immagine together with this year’s guest designer of Pitti W, Peter Pilotto, invited us to a special event at the beautiful Palazzo Borghese in Florence. The designer duo that forms the company, Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos, met when they both were studying at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. The installation together with the following presentation for Pitti W 10 presented a colourful S/S13 pre-collection where light sculpturing, graphic patterns and fine detailing were in focus.


The computer-formed language on the invitation and the graphic carpet in the stairs leading the guests up to the main venue gave an immediate hint of the inspiration. The two designers’ different skills of textile knowledge, prints and silhouettes were put together in a subtle elegance, where the microscopic graphical prints met with the designers’ scientific fascination towards nature. Beside a video installation showcasing the collection completely in the spirit of computer graphics, Peter Pilotto gave the audience a live show. The set-up for the presentation let the viewer inspect, analyze and see the full detailing of the garments. The models’ positions, still standing bare on podiums, slightly shiny faces drew the mind to store window mannequins and it put the design itself in total focus.

It was the inspired and the excited half of the duo that The Blogazine met after the show. “This location, scene, this oppourtunity, these surroundings, THIS,” Peter Pilotto said about the inspiration, while looking around him, gesturing. Their modern take on female fashion left a little magic for the viewers’ own thoughts, created in the contrast of the majestic venue and the vivid installation.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe 

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