Paris Fashion Week: Coats

Since Milano Moda Uomo has just passed the baton to Paris, the poshest of all fashion weeks, we are giving you a short and sweet slice of what will be the boldest trends for men for the upcoming Fall/Winter 2015 season. We start we the most obvious winter piece: the coat.

THE PVC COAT: The plastics inspiration infected more than one designer, even during Milano fashion week shows. In Paris, the best example was seen on Rick Owens’ runway. Obviously black, it presents a silhouette which is examplar: not too short and yet not too long.

THE VEST: We already talked about this trend a couple of months ago. As outwear, it should be worn long and matched with a heavy sweater. Raf Simons is the one who stood out with the vests he presented.

THE VERY LONG COAT: The long coat is going to take the place of the half-lenght one: majestic in its whole figure, it should be avoided by those not particularly high. The best example is the one designed by Walter Van Beirendonck: black and colored at the same time, it should be worn wide open.

THE CAPE: Christopher Lemaire is one of the most chic designers of the last generation. His inique and flawless style blends together with timelessly cool garments. For the next season the highlight is surely on the cape, which comes in military green.

THE ANIMALIER COAT: Mostly recognized as an aggressive print, so far only women have worn it on the catwalks. But for the next winter, it seems like it has finally entered the menswear world. Although we have seen different types of animalier garments on coats, it’s the one designed by Haider Ackermann that caught our eye.

Francesca Crippa 

Daily Tips: Making Music Modern

Music and design—art forms that share aesthetics of rhythm, tonality, harmony, interaction, and improvisation—have long had a close affinity, perhaps never more so than during the 20th century. Radical design and technological innovations, from the LP to the iPod and from the transistor radio to the Stratocaster, have profoundly altered our sense of how music can be performed, heard, distributed, and visualized. Avant-garde designers — among them Charles Rennie Mackintosh, Lilly Reich, Saul Bass, Jørn Utzon and Daniel Libeskind — have pushed the boundaries of their design work in tandem with the music of their time. Drawn entirely from the MoMA’s collection, Making Music Modern gathers designs for auditoriums, instruments, and equipment for listening to music, along with posters, record sleeves, sheet music, and animation. The exhibition examines alternative music cultures of the early 20th century, the rise of radio during the interwar period, how design shaped the “cool” aesthetic of midcentury jazz and hi-fidelity culture, and its role in countercultural music scenes from pop to punk, and later 20th-century design explorations at the intersection of art, technology, and perception. Making Music Modern will run until November 1st 2015 at MoMA in New York.

The Blogazine 

Milan Fashion Week: Colours

It is well known that every season has its own shades and hues. It is also well known that, despite broad and largely overcome rules (such as the one that says white shouldn’t be worn after Labor Day), seasonal hues and shades change with each and every season. Looking at Milan’s busy runways, we have selected our favorite five for the next Autumn/Winter 2015.

CAMEL: Traditional choice for both men and women, camel is definitely considered an evergreen. John Varvatos made slim coats, the Sixties vibe made the rest.

GREY: If it’s not black nor white, it must be grey. Elegant and discreet, it’s the color to match with almost any other hue. The particular light shade Calvin Klein used for its suits, got a modern effect.

MIRTLE GREEN: Green is always good and fits almost everybody well. The shade chosen by Fendi, however, makes a little step forward. In terms of intensity, for example, it’s energetic without exceeding, thus avoiding to become boring after you wear it two times in a row. Armani, on the other hand, uses is together with black on a suede jacket.

RED: Fierce and positive, this color is the one related to Mars and its powers. The new Gucci Creative Director, Alessandro Michele, went for it in his very feminine collection. Although it is definitely not an easy one, it should be considered for a sweater or even a coat.

AUROMETALSAURUS: The name says it all: a kind of refined tonality, it could be one of the hits for the next season. We saw it applied to velvet at Zegna, as well as at Antonio Marras. It’s a good start.

Francesca Crippa 

Through the Lens of Beat Schweizer

Images courtesy of Beat Schweizer 

Style Suggestions: Winter Whites

The runway trends have recreated a dreamy winter wonderland this season with angelic hues of ivory, eggshell and cream. Brighten and freshen up your wardrobe with these crisp and clean winter whites.

Coat: Lanvin, Clutch: Proenza Schouler, Pumps: Rupert Sanderson, Ring: Ann Demeulemeester, Earmuffs: Topshop

Styling by Vanessa Cocchiaro 


Milan Fashion Week: Highlights

As the shows in Milano have finally come to an end, it’s time to sum up everything we’ve seen. Here there are the highlights for the next Fall/Winter 2015-16 season.

SIXTIES: Fashion can sometimes get stuck in a particular (historic) direction, and this is the case of this very intense Sixties vibe we have been seeing everywhere for the past two seasons. By the way, the best example of this runway round, it the one shown by Boglioli – perfect in every single detail.

SKINNY SCARF: We must give credit where credit is due: Prada was the first one to introduce the tiny scarf trend, already seen in the brand’s Fall/Winter 2014-15 fashion show. A couple of months later, the accessory has become quite ubiquitous: Bottega Veneta made it a little bit shorter and mixed it with various colors.

POLO SWEATER: Although the other two highlights were definitely more common and already seen around, it seems that the polo sweater trend might flood the runqays quite soon. Rodolfo Paglialunga restored Jil Sander’s approach by introducing contemporary and vintage pieces.

OVERALL: Though it is not a very fresh trend, the overalls are one of those pieces we were used to seeing occasionally before it became, quite suddenly, one of the most recognizable elements. Alessandro Dell’Acqua made a denim version for his last N°21 collection – sporty and refined at the same time.

TURN UP: As we already said, there is not a fashion season without a trend created, almost, ex-novo from Mrs Prada. This time, Miuccia strikes again: the turn up – a usual style worn with longer pants – now comes in the form of coat and jacket sleeves, as seen on Prada’s runway.

Francesca Crippa 

Milan Fashion Week: Fabrics

Milano Moda Uomo, the as-per-usual delightfully exciting encounter with menswear fashion runways, is about to finish. The quick, sweet and exhausting Italian fashion week has offered plenty of interesting moments, here we have decided to focus on one of its elements: the most interesting fabrics for next Fall/Winter 2015.

VELVET: It was a big trend for womenswear, it seems to have been picked up also for men. The most elegant was the one of Ermenegildo Zegna: a ton-sur-ton suit which emphasizes their typical timeless vibe.

FUR: Opulent, often exaggerated, the fur is one of the main symbols of luxury. From Versace to Andrea Pompilio, most of Italian designers went for it. Marni’s designes won the crowds, due to its always impeccable signature – a mix of extravaganza and high craftsmanship.

LEATHER: As seen Neil Barrett’s runway, the leather appeared a true contemporary choice. The leather coat comes in total black and presents a slim, well-balanced silhouette – a must that can be worn all the way through spring.

PADDING: As most trends, padding comes right from the street. Versace matches it with a classy grey suit. The result? A touch of light – and heat – on a very serious look.

KNITWEAR: Wool is the main element of many winter looks, becoming ever more interesting for contemporary designers. Salvatore Ferragamo played with garments such as scarves and cardigans by making them maxi and extra comfy, as a different way to minimize the almost too strict ‘gentleman’ approach.

Francesca Crippa 

Lawrence Carroll | Ghost House

This week, once again, art will enliven the heart of Bologna with the usual annual date with Arte Fiera, a long weekend devoted to modern and contemporary art, returning for its 39th edition from 23rd to 26th January. As we wait for the yearly event, why not take advantage of the wide calendar of exhibitions and cultural initiatives thought not just to accompany the fair, but also to help visitors discover numerous museums and sites of art in town. In accordance with this interesting programme, Mambo – Museum of Modern Art of Bologna hosts the retrospective of the talented Australian-born, American painter Lawrence Carroll (b. 1954, Melbourne).

The exhibition entitled “Ghost House”, curated by Gianfranco Maraniello, presents about sixty works created from the ‘80s up to the present that retrace the artist’s career without following any chronological order. Displaying the affinity with other great artists such as Sean Scully and in particular the Bolognese master Giorgio Morandi, Ghost House (title loosely base on Robert Frost’s poem) is a good occasion to approach Carroll’s poetics, his study of objects and their positioning in the space that gives rise to multiple combinations and interpretations, as well his intimate dimension where everyday life entities reveal the complexity and uncertainty of reality. Carroll’s way of processing paintings turns them into sculptural forms characterized by stratifications of white colour and mixed materials that carry weaves and imperfections like cracks and folds on uneven surfaces. The exhibition path shows different types of work through which Carroll expresses contents and experiences: from the earliest “Cut Paintings”, paintings from which pieces of canvas are cut and put back together, or the “Stacked Paintings”, an accumulation of painted canvas and wood, to the “Calendar Paintings”, attached to the wall in a way that recalls the pages of a book, passing through to the big “Sleeping Paintings”, composed of different pieces of canvas with cut out niches covered with painted pieces of cloth and the metaphorical “Light paintings”, which incorporated light sources and call back the issue of light, always present in the artist’s personal artistic research.

Lawrence Carroll’s “Ghost House” will run until April 6th 2015. The show is accompanied by a catalogue with texts by curator, art critic and professor Angela Vettese.

Monica Lombardi – Images courtesy of Antonio Maniscalco 

Daily Tips: Betting on the Oscars

Well, as every year, the awards season has come and it is a fairly exciting, though undoubtedly extremely biased, time of the year. We are more than happy to say that one of our all time favorite directors – Wes Anderson – has gathered a total of nine Academy Award nominations for his brilliantly meticulous masterpiece “The Grand Budapest Hotel”; the nominations include best picture, cinematography, costume design, directing, film editing, makeup and hairstyling, music, production design and original screenplay. So, who do you bet will score the most – deserved or undeserved – Oscars this year?

The Blogazine 

Bright Talent on London’s Runways

If you’re not a passionate follower, but only an occasional onlooker, men’s fall/winter London fashion week might have caught you off guard. Starting pretty early in the year – from 9th until 12th of January – while we are still digesting our holiday dinners, it nevertheless offers a pleasant and exciting return to reality. Known as the central stage for up-and-coming designers and often radical, anti-establishment fashion shows, London Collections: Men, seemed like the perfect occasion to get an update on who will probably be shaping the future of menswear.

CMMN was launched in 2012 by Saif Bakir and Emma Hedlund in Sweden. They first met as fashion students in London and have since worked together as Heads of Design for Kanye West, before founding their own brand. CMMN is a menswear brand aiming to create the perfect mix between great staples and standout pieces. Their Autumn 2015 collection is no exception, uniting sporty influences and colours with classic menswear garments. Orange bomber jackets and elegant suits – two apparently irreconcilable piece – are both featured in the collection, creating an original mix that contributes to the youthful take on menswear, typical of CMMN.

Casely-Hayford is a father and son design duo, created in 2009 after several years working within the industry. Casely-Hayford aims to combine different influences into an original piece, heavily borrowing from street culture as well as fine art, delivering pieces with impeccable execution, combining modern and classic techniques. Their latest collection is in line with their core values, with clear sportswear references combined with tailored pieces. It is a perfect collection for the modern man.

Craig Green started his design career after completing an MA in Fashion at Central Saint Martins. His first collection, presented last season, touched the audience so deeply that many left in tears. Though a bit less emotional on the audience’s side, this season’s collection was still highly praised. Green did what, apparently, he does best – conceptual, clean and strong pieces – with a new take on the uniform as the focus of the collection. It could be that the uniform is a new theme, as many designers seem to be reflecting on it this season.

James Long has rapidly become one the most celebrated young design talents, recently winning the Fashion Forward Award, a British Fashion Council initiative to promote up and coming British designers. With his characteristic design, which often includes leather, print and jeans, Long has found a stable fan base. For Autumn 2015, he mixed different style references based on his favourite materials, resulting in a collection that feels both sporty and grunge.

Hanna Cronsjö