07/06/2013

Future Beauty: 30 years of Japanese Fashion

We started hearing about Asian designers during 70s, when names like Kenzo and Issey Miyake made their first step into Western culture. From that moment on, a new revolutionary wave was starting and it reached its peak in the beginning of 80s, just one decade after. 
It happened that during Paris Fashion Week, in the summer of 1983, a scandal occurred. Two young designers from Japan, called Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto, launched a completely new aesthetic based mostly on black – and a bit of white – and sort of ignored the usual female silhouette by using extra large garments and introducing the no-shape concept. 
The shows developed a series of open questions and statements from the fashion system itself, that started to call them the post-war generation.


Nowadays we dare to claim that the Asian fashion designers are considered the most innovative and inspirational ones worldwide. 
Three years ago at Barbican museum in London, an exhibit that showcased some of the most iconic Japan pieces took place. This year the show comes back at SAM, Simonyi Special Exhibition Galleries, in the city of Seattle. 
Curated by Kyoto Costume Institute director, Akiko Fukai, the exhibit aims to display the big names of East, such as Kenzo Takada, Junya Watanabe, Jun Takahashi, Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, through clothes, runway videos, photographs and magazines. 
By starting from the very beginning until the more contemporary times, the exhibition gives the visitors a complete view of the increasing evolution of Japanese fashion.



The show will be open from June 27th until September 8th.

Francesca Crippa 
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06/06/2013

4 Questions To – Margaux Lönnberg

She is the Parisian girl who looks Scandinavian and has a name that is the perfect clash of her heritage: part French, part Danish, part Swedish, part Finnish. She spent her years growing up between Paris and Morocco. She’s the blogger-turned-designer whose style, taste and personality have made her somewhat of a muse. She’s the girl who doesn’t read the questions before our interview because she prefers to respond naturally from her head and heart. The Blogazine got a moment with Margaux Lönnberg and got to know her honest and charismatic persona.

You’re recognized as blogger, model, designer, muse… what would you, yourself, say that your ‘title’ is?

Well.. I would like to designate myself as designer, regarding that I design my brand! Muse, yes, I think I’m a muse in certain ways for certain people: maybe for the blogosphere, for a few creatives and photographers, and it’s something I always loved. But today I present myself as a designer. It’s what I always wanted to do and it was for this reason I started my blog to start with. I already designed a bit before and with the blog I could create my own universe with all my inspiration and music et voilà, now I have my own brand!

Speaking about your eponymous brand, Margaux Lönnberg – the collections seem to be a reflection of your own wardrobe. Are you your own muse?

No, but I’m inspired by my own taste, of course. Though, my taste comes from others – I don’t think my taste comes only from me, but is something that is created through the people around me! When I design and in everything I do, I find inspiration in photography, images, music – above all, music! My blog is full of music! – cinema, books.

I have my style and I try to design the things I like and that I don’t find, the things I think are missing – the brand is about style and not about making something that is ‘in fashion’ or trendy, and it is what makes it interesting. I don’t follow fashion, at all. I’m not looking for women saying “this out of fashion, it’s passé – I’ll throw it away”. I’m creating a style, something that last.

If not Paris, where would you live?

I’d have to say New York. New York is a city where people really do things. In Paris people are a bit.. soft, they don’t do things for real, thoroughly. In New York people work hard. Then you have the architecture, all the different quartiers, neighbourhoods, all these places that create a city, and it’s a city that is rich. Rich in everything! Though, it’s a very rapid city, the people really speed, which stresses me a little, I like things a bit more cool. But the answer is New York – every corner of the city is truly inspiring.

What’s the one piece of clothing you couldn’t do without?

Le t-shirt blanc! A white tee is the basic that you can wear with everything: jeans, pants, skirts, during the day, during the evening, in the night. Then there are plenty of other pieces of course, but a white t-shirt really is my wardrobe favourite and it’s a piece I wear all the time.


Interview by Lisa Olsson Hjerpe 
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06/06/2013

1 Granary – By Students For Students

Central Saint Martins students have recently released their last project: the printed version of the online platform
1 Granary. Just over one year after the launch of the blog, they decided to turn it into a real tangible edition by creating a collectors’ magazine with a limited circulation of one thousand printed issues.


Over the last years we have seen several annual and bi-annular magazines taking their place in the newsstands, but what makes 1 Granary magazine different from other similar publications is that it is completely composed by the school’s graduates as well as the freshmen. The project that started in 2011 got its name from the place where all courses of the school had been reunited in a single venue: 1 Granary Square, London.

The idea of using the school’s address as the name of the magazine aims to extend the location where the students can share ideas and projects without feeling pressured or fearing to be misunderstood. The magazine wants to become a foothold for all Central Saint Martins students, helping them to grow in a familiar and open reality, while experimenting with various paths. Olya Kuryshchuk, editor-in-chief and BA scholar, seeks to create a source of inspiration by students for students, but more than that, the magazine can also be a way of opening the doors to a wider public, showing insights of the everyday life and work of CSM.


The magazine’s two hundred pages are filled with photography, art and everything related to the subjects of the studied courses. Emerging talents are featured alongside the well-known names, and content such as an interview with the Sex Pistols guitarist Glen Matlock, a tale about John Galliano’s early school years and a fashion editorial styled by Katie Grand, Love Magazine editor. By bringing something digital to a printed form, uniting the two platforms, 1 Granary also forms a new creative wave with insiders under the same cover, both attempting to push a fresh growing generation into the fashion field.

Francesca Crippa 
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05/06/2013

Memorable Fashion Moments

Fashion moments are those flashes of fashion that linger longer than a season. It is not a mere description of a runway look but a piece of history or a definition of a memory. In Baz Luhrmann’s The Great Gatsby the costume design was almost as important as the storyline, which brought in mind a few other historical fashion moments.

Audrey Hepburn walking down 5th avenue to the notes of Henry Mancini is an iconic scene from Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Her black dress was something that gave the little black dress a permanent place in the fashion hall of fame. The dress designed by Hubert de Givenchy was simplistic, yet the dipping back of the neck brought thoughts to the eastern culture of the Geisha giving it a unique quality. In a way this is something that can give an ironic comment on the Holly Golightly character.

When receiving an Oscar as Best Actress for her role in Million Dollar Baby, Hilary Swank wore a dress by Guy Laroche, also glancing backwards. The dress consisted of 27 yards of silk and seemed quite demure in the front but surprised as the back was exceptionally low cut. The sheer surprise of the dress shape and the minimalistic feel helped to form a new opinion of the saying “less is more”.

Diane Keaton’s Annie Hall reinvented the term “androgynous” through her look of layered menswear. Introducing the la Garçonne in a whole new way by mixing up a more dandy look with long hair and neutral makeup. The 70s have been a fashion inspiration for many years now, and the Annie Hall-look – which takes inspiration from other eras – creates a vague time continuum making it easier to be timeless.

These are a few trips down the fashion lane which is paved with many more moments. Uma Thurman in Pulp Fiction and Michelle Pfeiffer in Scarface are other perfect examples, everyone surely has their own favorites among the many. The paving keeps adding new stones to the lane such as the pink suit á la Gatsby.

Victoria Edman 
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30/05/2013

New Talents of 2013 | Beckmans

Beckmans College of Design opens the month of the final shows of the most important European fashion schools. On the 20th May at Berns (Stockholm), twelve BA students showed their collections, which were then showcased for a week at the last floor of their school at Brahegatan 10 – Stockholm. The variety of students’ works testified how Beckmans does not spasmodically aim to create a common-branded identity but let students’ minds and hands develop through a maieutical dialogue during their three years of education. The aim is to develop “their own clear personal and inquisitive perspectives”, says the departing director Tom Hedqvist.


This method generated very different fashion reflections that move from the role and nature of contemporary aesthetics, to introspective speculations, passing through commentaries on the technicality of fashion design. 
Among all these creations, it is possible to admire the architectural geometries by Lisa Laurell Amandonico who works on minimalistic and classical shapes sewn together by a sort of white spinal bones connections, or Alina Brane’s impressive “Dreamward” where plastic and feathers are constructing dream-like enclosures. To be notice also the collections by Per Gotesson, Emmy Andersson and Lamija Suljevic. The first formulates an experimental discourse on shapes and materials through the construction of a contemporary pirate, while the second mixes extraordinary accessories with clean cuts that, to some extent, resemble the work of Ann Sofie Back. Impressive were also the work by Slijevic who created hand-weaved gold ribbon armors and hand-folded hats made of PVC sequins and clear rhinestones.

Indeed, Beckmans’ students show how schools are not only places of individual sufferance and struggle but also incubators where critical creativities are formed, shaped and developed. Discipline and creativity walk hand in hand in fashion design and they are crucial skills especially in the attempt to enter the fashion field in these hard days for the market. However, to use the words of the departing director Tom Hedqvist: “Tough times can, at best, bring about the formulation of constructive ideas. At best”.

Marco Pecorari 
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30/05/2013

The Rules of Double Denim

At The Blogazine there is a certain fondness for all things denim, in all its shapes, sizes, shades and splendor. Without getting into too much of denim history – a subject that would deserve more than one article and probably would keep any denim connoisseur tangled up in debates and devoted discussions, we had a look at the latest double denim looks to hit the streets.

It’s by no means a new trend – you only need to take a look back to the early work wear to see how these head-to-toe denim suits haven’t changed essentially. Functionality, style and attitude are what make this iconic fabric move through the decades, painlessly adapting and sitting happily next to any other item of apparel. So how about when it’s teamed together with a fellow piece of denim – denim on denim?

There’s a few denim style icons who really do deserve a mention when talking of double denim: Elvis, Steve McQueen, Debbie Harry and of course the denim icon James Dean are but a few who all wore it well through history.

Leaping forward to 2013 one could question how relevant these looks are today and how different shades of denim could be worn in the best way together? Lately, double denim rules seem to be topping the list of style advice in fashion magazines: mix dark denim shades with light, don’t wear the same wash together, mix slim and loose silhouettes, and it goes on. Looking at it from another angle, we believe it is more about the wearers’ personal style and attitude than about applying strict rules to an outfit.


Modern references can be found in the looks of brands such as Roy Roger’s, the historical denim brand produced in Tuscany since the early 50’s. The brand mixes shades, shapes and washes as much as they use different weights and structures in fabrics – denim on denim comes naturally to a brand used to match its favourite material to infinity.

Sometimes we have to forget about finding the right washes or worn-out looks to match but also about daring to stay off and go back to the mono-coloured pieces to bring out the best in both and let them shine on their own, but together. It’s time to look at the history and get inspired by the icons, to play with the mix of modernity and authenticity and to put your personality into it – then, there are no rules!

Tamsin Cook 
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29/05/2013

The Great Gatsby: A Fashion Comparison

What seems so far to be the real protagonist of the newest version of The Great Gatsby is undoubtedly the costume design.
 Before the current Baz Luhrmann’s adaptation, Jack Clayton’s version in 1974 was the most known and successful one. 
Making a short fashion comparison between one and another can make sense if you think that both have been released long time after the era they talk about and, consequently, they share a vision and an interpretation of the decade. 
Gatsby’s party is one of the most iconic scenes, when all protagonists are present and everyone is dancing. 
In the previous version, Theoni V. Aldredge – the costume designer – went so close to the 20s atmosphere, recreating sparkling clothes, pastel tones on drop waist dresses, fringes everywhere – you can even hear the noise -, feathers along with long gloves. 
On the opposite, the almost total absence of those knee-long fringed dresses is the first thing one may notice in the most recent interpretation.


The clothes worn by Daisy Buchanan are so sophisticated that they seem quite far from the era they want to represent. Catherine Martin, the designer and the wife of the director, was stuck in some of the 20s trends melting them with modern and dark styles, though. 
A quite evident presence of out-of-context garments is shown in 1974, nevertheless more revealed in 2013. On Jordan Baker‘s character, the two designers went off-track: in Clayton’s version the young golfer woman is dressed in typical 60s geometrical shapes and in Lurhmann’s she wears even palazzo pants.
 To better highlight Myrtle Wilson‘s role as Mr. Buchanan’s lover, she must be malicious. But in 2013 film her clothes are not just vulgar and bright but modern and cheap. 
Men’s style seems more in tune: a lot of white, straw boater hats, pinstripe suits. The directors didn’t forget about the pink suit, which plays a key role in the novel: it is what differs Gatsby from the real gentlemen.
 All in all, Theoni V. Aldredge and Catherine Martin were enough accurate in choosing costumes. The visible differences depend from two different times, therefore from two different perspectives of the same past.


Francesca Crippa 
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24/05/2013

Pre Helsinki Festival

Pre Helsinki is a new Finnish fashion festival that is currently taking place (22nd-25th May) in the country’s capital city. Organized by Finnish designers along with professionals, the festival hosts international fashion insiders from notable journalists to several foreign buyers.


The aim of the event is to create a connection between young Finnish designers and worldwide fashion leaders; by fashion shows, talks, seminars, parties and presentations, the new brands have the opportunity to be introduced to a wider panorama and to discuss, together with the guests, about trends and different points of view. Realization of the idea of creating a new interchange platform between Finland and the rest of the world has been possible also thanks to Finland Foreign Affair Ministry and Aalto University School of Arts, Design and Architecture special cooperation.


Along with established designers like Marimekko, Laitinen and Heikki Salonen, also younger talents such as Ensæmble, Saara Lepokorpi and Sasu Kauppi are showing their newest collections, and the newcomer Siloa & Mook is doing a debut in the industry by presenting its first collection. Lately, Finnish fashion is becoming more and more internationally recognized, which is a new phenomenon for a country formally known for its architecture and product design. That’s one of the main reasons why the nation thinks local fashion industry needs to be supported, and experiments new types of events. Talking with Development and Business Relations officer 
Martta Louekari, she says: “Pre Helsinki is neither a traditional sales event, nor a fashion week. The focus of Pre Helsinki is on promoting the internationalization and networking of Finnish designers and fashion brands in a relaxed, yet professional, atmosphere.”


Francesca Crippa – Images Meri Karhu 
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22/05/2013

European Fashion Schools: London College of Fashion

London College of Fashion is located in the city that has been said to be a city where the creativity gets created and as obligatory destination on the fashion week schedule if looking for new talents. LCF is also one of the six colleges that make up the University of the Arts in London, which today is Europe’s largest university specialising in arts and design.

When The Blogazine had a chance to talk to the staff and insiders of London College of Fashion we asked why London should be the city to study in. “London has so much to offer its fashion and arts students – world class museums, renowned commercial galleries to small artist-run exhibition spaces. The mix of international landmarks and major department stores in contrast to hidden markets, small boutiques and designer studios make students thrive in the London environment – there is inspiration everywhere!”

Other than the privileges that the city itself offers, LCF is one of the most well-connected fashion education institutions in the world. In an attempt to stay in the forefront of things, LCF has in recent years worked to expand the thinking behind fashion as a discipline – the college aims to both challenge and support an industry that depends on rapid change and consumption. When studying at London College of Fashion you are being confronted with areas such as health, sustainability and ethical design as well as with the science around the latest digital technologies.


Being a school that has more than 100 years of history and claims that the one thing certain for the next coming 100 is that they will be at the centre of things, we had to ask about the school’s thoughts on the current situation in the industry that constantly goes on high speed. “Social media will continue to increase the speed of fashion, both in terms of communication and commerce, although we are now also seeing a counter trend for slow fashion and an increased appreciation for traditional media. At LCF we are working to prepare our students for the complexities of the fashion industry by providing both traditional and digital skills and knowledge.”

“We teach using a variety of communication methods and tools: face-to-face communication, printed media, video, online discussion groups, webinars, social media, blogging and offline presentations. We also try to ensure that the pace of our teaching and assessment reflects that of the industry. Just as fashion has moved from a monologue to a dialogue, so too is this reflected in our teaching as we involve both students and the industry in our curriculum and assessment design.”

Industry relationships, cutting-edge research, new technologies and a great interest in its students – the list of what a high-end fashion school should offer its students could be made long. At LCF the priority lies in providing the students – no matter if they’re in the field of becoming designers, buyers, journalists, managers, stylists or any other degree possible to pursue at LCF – with the relevant tools to successfully forge a career within the fashion industry. “We thoroughly prepare our students for the world of work by helping source employment opportunities, internships, placements and projects relevant to their requirements. This often makes a profound impact on their career development.”

It’s hard to deny London its voice of say in the fashion industry and often pioneering ways of adapting to a business in change, and London College of Fashion is one of the schools that are trying to build a unique learning experience in order to produce the creative leaders of tomorrow. “People looking for a career in fashion should make the most of all the opportunities available to them.” – as far as we’ve understood, London seem to be just the right city to catch those opportunities.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of Jas Lehal for London College of Fashion 
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21/05/2013

Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore!

There are fashion events that are more intense than others. Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore! is probably going to be one of those. 
After her tragic death in 2007, her dear friend Daphne Guinness bought her entire wardrobe with the aim of, someday, creating a public exhibition. 
Rumors about an upcoming show have been around for several times, but they have never been confirmed until now.
 The initiative has been organized by Central Saint Martins together with the Isabella Blow Foundation, built by Miss Guinness herself, and intended to both support young fashion students and financing research in depression and mental health. 
Somerset House in London has been chosen as the location, the design has been curated by Carmody Groarke studio, and the all show is in the hands of Central Saint Martins fashion historian, Alistair O’Neill, who is also one of Somerset House’s curators.




By different sections, the spot will retrace her most significant fashion moments: from her aristocratic background to her passion in discovering young talents, up to her huge hats and shoes collection and her love for English countryside. 
One hundred pieces from her unique garments, along with Prada, Victor & Rolf, Jeremy Scott and many others, styled on mannequins by set designer Shona Heath, will be shown in order to give the viewer a realistic idea of who Isabella Blow was and to better describe her timeless original style approach.
 She has always been famous for her special sixth sense regarding new talents, this is the reason why a special area dedicated to some of Alexander McQueen’s graduation collection pieces, along with La dame Bleu and Philip Treacy tribute, will be displayed.




The show will open in November 2013 and it is expected to close in March 2014.

Francesca Crippa 
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