28/08/2013

Back to School

No matter how much we love summer and everything it comes with – holidays, late nights and lazy days – we do love the arrival of September. September means a fresh start, September means new promises and a bright future. Even for the ones of us who are “only” going back to office, the kid within us can feel that excitement of the new period that requires shiny new shoes, never-worn clothes and a new set of pens – the school starts.

There’s probably no other image than the “all-American college student” to better describe the ultimate school look, something that Italian denim giant Roy Roger’s picked up on. For the story of the brand’s vintage soul, the re-occuring “Rugged” collection, Roy Roger’s went to the 50’s America for Fall/Winter 2013-14. With material recovered from their archives they present a collection that is contemporary yet retro. Preppy or jock, in the AW13-14 Rugged collection you find your favourites from English shetland jackets and Oxford shirts to cotton socks, all in the representative colours of American college football teams.

It’s time to put on your sweatshirts, pack your backpacks and sharpen your pens – we’re going back to school.






From the Bureau 
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27/08/2013

Retrospective Fashion

Fashion has always found inspiration for the present by looking back to the past. FIT Museum celebrates this typical attitude by an historical exhibition called RetroSpective. 
By grouping together different and distant ages – there’s for instance a circa 1939 evening dress by Elsa Schiaparelli displayed with a 1988 Carolina Herrera’s and an ensemble by 1999-2000 Anna Sui – the aim of the show is to present that perpetual link between various approaches and similar references. From ancient Egypt to Greece, up to Byzantium, 250 years of clothing are examined by comparison, with a special focus on silhouettes.

As the design scholar Elizabeth Guffey cleverly observed in the book Retro: The Culture of Revival, “Since World War II, there has been a popular thirst for recovery of earlier, and yet still modern, periods at an ever-accelerating rate”. The book explores indeed the ambiguous cultural meanings of the term “retro” and tries to reveal why some trends never come to an end and periodically come back; RetroSpective retraces the same path by underling the importance of the phenomenon.

The exhibit is organized by Jennifer Farley, with textiles by Lynn Weidner and accessories by Colleen Hill and will be open until November 16.


Francesca Crippa 
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26/08/2013

Style Suggestions: Holiday to the Office

The holidays might be over while summer isn’t. It’s time to head to the office again, but luckily you can keep the outfits light. Choose smart accessories with the sun in mind.



Shirt Acne, Bag Alexander McQueen, sunglasses MIU MIU, shoes Ter et Bantine

Styling Vanessa Cocchiaro 
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23/08/2013

Summer 2013: Mid-Season Dressing Up

August is one of those months. It’s still summer and for some it’s still holiday time but with Autumn fast approaching and the stores starting to offer new season collections, perhaps it’s time to freshen up your wardrobe and update with some key pieces which will take you through the last of the summer days and into the early autumnal weeks. For those who know what to wear for the holiday times, on the beach and summer clubs, the fashion tips for the summer months would come a bit late. So if you’re already lurking for the autumn trends, hear hear!

The trick is to pull out of your existing wardrobe special items which work for you, this may be your favorite pair of jeans or denim shorts, that cute vintage dress or simply a well cut pair of trousers. Outfits can be quickly updated with different shoes, a new blouse, a sharply cut jacket/blazer or just some additional accessories.

What’s fun is to mix and match between the old and the new, try rummaging through some good vintage stores to pick up a printed blouse or dress, what’s great about second hand items is that they are mostly original and no-one else will have the same piece.

From The Blogazine, here are some of the key trends to think of whilst choosing your transitional wardrobe; 90s sports and club wear, geometrical bold patterns, camouflage, animal prints and especially when the weather starts cooling red/orange leopard prints on knits and fine wovens, plaids and checks – mixed and matched and layered up, demure and prim dressing up -, slouchy open knits and fisherman inspired cable sweaters, the trouser suit and tailored shorts, boho dressing, grunge punk and especially primary colours are going to be hot for the mid-season.

But most importantly, have fun and don’t take it too seriously!

Tamsin Cook 
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12/08/2013

Summer 2013: Fashion Exhibitions

Summer means relaxing, traveling and discovering. Here are some tips about fashion exhibitions worth visiting we would like to share with you, so that if you happen to be in London, Stockholm, Düsseldorf or Providence, you can keep your inner fashionista/fashionisto satisfied even in August.

I Only Want You to Love Me

A definite must-see in London, at Somerset House Museum, “I Only Want You to Love Me” showcases Miles Aldridge’s glamour and fiction photography. The show is going to be one of the artist’s largest, including a series of unpublished works together with hand-drawn storyboards, magazines and polaroids, to give visitors the chance to look deeper inside Aldridge’s life and art. His photographic approach bases much on women and colors and by working on details he describes decadent and bright beauty, portrayed as a movie scene. The show coincides with the publication of the book by the same name, published by Rizzoli.

“I Only Want You to Love Me” at Somerset House will run until September 29th.


Helmut Newton

Residing in Stockholm in August? Helmut Newton‘s unforgettable fashion images are showcased in Fotografiska Museum. 
“The perfect fashion photo doesn’t look like a fashion photo, but more like a film still, or a portrait or a keepsake photo – somehow like anything but a fashion photo” he once claimed. By working for Vogue, Elle and many other big names, Newton established a new concept of fashion: he portrayed a story behind the frame, narrated a new generation of women with an erotic and sharp yet elegant touch.

Helmut Newton at Fotografiska Museum will run until September 29th.

Azzedine Alaïa in the 21st Century

If you happen to be in or near Düsseldorf in Germany, you could visit the exhibition about Azzedine Alaïa entitled Azzedine Alaïa in the 21st Century. 
The Tunisia-born designer built his fame during 60s by traveling between France and USA, working for major names like Christian Dior and Thierry Mugler, before opening his own atelier, which has been recently bought by Prada group.
 The exhibition will show the last ten years of the designer’s creations and in each exhibition room you’ll find a special focus on the fabrics he used to work consistently, such as velvet, fur, leather, knitwear and cotton. 


“Azzedine Alaïa in the 21st Century”, curated by Mark Wilson runs at NRW–Forum in Düsseldorf until September 8th.

Artist / Rebel / Dandy: Men of Fashion

Providence, USA, is situated between the mouth of Providence River and the head of Narragansett Bay and for the summer hosts an exhibition at RIDS, completely dedicated to dandy. From the gentlemen of old times, such as Beau Brummell to the revolutionaries of today – Rick Owens, Patty Smith and so forth, “Artist / Rebel / Dandy: Men of Fashion” aims to show the garments that best represent the idea of dandy along with caricatures, fashion plates, paintings, photographs and media representations that have portrayed them over the centuries.

“Artist / Rebel / Dandy: Men of Fashion” at RISD Museum will welcome you until August 18th.

Francesca Crippa 
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05/08/2013

European Fashion Schools: Università IUAV di Venezia

Università Iuav di Venezia, IUAV, was established in Venice in 1926, as one of the first architectural schools in Italy. Organized into three departments – ‘Architecture, Construction and Conservation’, ‘Design and Planning in Complex Environments’ and ‘Architecture and Arts’ – the IUAV is a University with full focus on design. “It’s the perfect place for a fashion design program” – for the last part of the European Fashion Schools series, The Blogazine spoke to Maria Luisa Frisa, fashion critic and curator, and fashion director at the IUAV.

The main focus of the school lies in the different aspects of design – IUAV and design are two words that walk hand in hand – and it’s interesting how this perspective to the world of arts and architecture can benefit the fashion students of the school. “The question of how a strong design profile can benefit our fashion students is one of those questions that already contains its answer. In Italy it’s not customary to find a public university which deals with the theories and practices in fashion design, but IUAV is the place where this is happening and honestly, it’s the only place where I can imagine where it’s possible to make such a thing happen.”

Venice, and Treviso, where the fashion campus is located, are world known cities even though they have never been considered as ‘classic’ centres of fashion. So for a school educating people that have to enter the industry, how can the IUAV compete with the schools located in cities that have ‘full access‘ to the fashion industry? According to Frisa, being at the periphery of things gives the IUAV the chance to experiment, to find new ways of doing things, to invite new faces and new designers to contribute to a project. Of course, during times such as during the Biennale, Venice becomes an important centre, for instance of the Prada Foundation. “Recently we had Yoko Ono visiting us for an open lecture and an exhibition, and even she felt that there is a lot of things happening in Venice! A lot of people meet here for various reasons and this privileged atmosphere should be treasured and preserved.”

The IUAV does not only work with the creative part of fashion but also offers several theoretical courses, and as Frisa herself works as a curator, we took a moment to speak about where she sees space for theoretical professionals in the fashion industry. “Museums, galleries and cultural institutions for sure, both in Italy and internationally. But since I consider fashion one of those creative industries which now have the duty to redefine what we are used to consider as “Made in Italy”, curators and thinkers with a specific profile on fashion design will be useful and are actually requested by industries and production teams. People with a theoretical fashion basis can bring innovative visions on what’s happening now and on future possible scenarios.” On the other side of the IUAV fashion programs, there’s the fashion design students, who graduated last month with their final shows. “The BA Graduation show was brilliant” says Maria Luisa Frisa. “They were encouraged to explore their own inspirations and imageries trying to find a new idea of pattern making, which considers the idea of mistakes as a source of innovation, while the MA show was much more experimental and a true performance curated by Kinkaleri.”


Coming from a place which combines theory and practice in an environment that might bring other influences than the big fashion cities, what is the most important thing for the students to bring with them out in the world of business from the IUAV? “The athmoshpere of our community: the idea of teamwork that we always experiment with during all the ateliers, and the idea of self-curating their own project. They need to consider the design process as a whole, which starts from research and getting ideas and ends with the presentation and staging of the project.” She speaks about freedom to experiment, but also to make mistakes, as an element that a creative school needs to provide for its students, in order to make them grow. What regards her answer for the standard question of a tip for people looking for a career in fashion, Frisa replies: “Two words I’ve recently used as a title for a lecture done during the Europeana International Fashion Conference in Florence: talent and discipline.” Two words that conclude the series well.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of Francesco de Luca & Laura Bolzan / IUAV 
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01/08/2013

Fashionable Protection

Sunglasses are a crucial piece of any summer outfit, a style item, but during these hot sunny months they also function as an important shield to protect our eyes from the rays of the sun. In this luminous warfare, polarized sunglasses are a top accessory, but have you ever thought of where they came from? What do polarized lenses actually mean?

Polarized sunglasses were first introduced in 1936 by Edwin H. Land, founder of the Polaroid Corporation. He, together with the brand Ray Ban, designed the aviator-style sunglasses especially with war pilots in mind, as a part of their uniform. Sunglasses were given a shape to equip the pilot with optimal shade from the sun, important since all the previous designs let the sunlight in when pilots looked down at the instrument panel. In 1937 – a year after the initial introduction – the polarized Ray Ban aviators became available for the public as well.


The Polaroid filter makes the sunglasses an effective shield against harmful rays and light glare. The light passes through the lens in a single plane eliminating the rays of glare from the light rays. Common sunglasses lets light pass through in many planes and can’t minimize the glare effect on the eye. The polarization can be applied to the lens in three different ways. It is cheapest to have a film of polarized filtering applied to the outer coating of the lens. The filter can also be put between the layers of the lens. The newest and consequently most expensive way is to combine the filter with the lens material: a result achieved by adding filter to lens while this is still in liquid form, thus generating the highest visual quality.

The protection from the sun has been the inspiration of many fashionable items through time. Women in ancient times hid seductively behind a fan or a dipped parasol, modern women – and men – discovered the chic allure in wearing sunglasses also off the utility in war, at the beach.


Victoria Edman 
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25/07/2013

European Fashion Schools: Central Saint Martins

We’re back in London and back at the University of Arts, but this time we’re heading into the world of Central Saint Martins. CSM, the initials breathe talent and creativity, they breathe design, fame and innovation. The Blogazine has previously looked at its talents and the work executed by its students, but more than heavy names on its list of graduates, is Central Saint Martins the answer to the question asked by themselves too: What’s the point of art school?


The question is interesting, when coming from an art school itself. Central Saint Martins brought up the discussion in a moment when art and design education have been facing a hard time, and by that CSM communicates that the need to deliver a clear answer to what art, fashion or design education actually brings to the students, society and industry, is greater than ever. They highlight the point that fashion – or art – education is becoming more exclusive but less diverse. So how does a school like Central Saint Martins, famous for not being only exclusive and of high quality, but a school that graduates talent, after talent, after talent, create a diversity different from the competitors?



At Central Saint Martins everything is gathered under one roof: art, product and industrial design, drama and performance, fashion, textile and jewelry design, graphic communication and all the other courses on all levels that fit into the culture of CSM. According to the school itself, their approach to art and education is curious and may result in a challenging, but never dull, journey. Without saying that boundaries were made to be broken, in the world of Central Saint Martins they were at least made to be explored. The courses at the school, located in the midst of London’s bursting creative scene, have a strong connection to the actual practice of the industry. The approach of the teachers, which often seems to take colour on the students, is forward-looking and always on the edge, bringing the school to be one of the ones always standing in the forefront of the discussion.

Like for any school that seems to be able to produce great talent, it’s hard to pinpoint how, what, and why they succeed. Maybe it’s the approach, maybe it’s the experience, maybe, and most probably, it’s the combination of a certain structure and vision created by the school. An approach that dares to ask if art school is necessary, an approach that encourages people to be brave and to do what they love.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of Central Saint Martins 
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23/07/2013

Hats – A Personality of Their Own

There’s something about a hat. It’s a mysterious item which has a personality of its’ own; happy to be worn or simply proud to hang on a hat stand. The type of hat you choose to wear sends out many signals, the wearer wanting to portray a certain image. But what is fun and quirky with a hat is that you can twist the predictable and create a paradoxical image, creating a unique stylish twist to an outfit.


History has shown us that hats were a way of expressing social status. Not only status, but also rank or religion could be recognized by a hat, and there is also the protective and practical element in it. Sunshine or rain, a hat can be a nifty best friend.

The big 90s trend which has taken a big comeback over the last few seasons has brought back the baseball cap, worn not only amongst the young sporty generation but established now as a staple item in any fashionista’s accessories wardrobe. The fedora hat is an easy piece to add as an extra touch to any outfit. The beanie is a fun detail, dressing down an outfit, giving a hint of street style to even the chicest of dressers.

The latest catwalk shows for SS14 resort have shown scarves being a key styling item which wrapped up in a number of ways create a relaxed and hip mood at Fendi and Roksanda Ilincic. A summer straw garden hat sets the scene at Acne Studios which gives this directional line a recognizable and familiar look. At Phillip Lim, his cut out top asymmetrical straw hats added an instant modern avant-garde approach to summer dressing.


Tamsin Cook 
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17/07/2013

European Fashion Schools: Istituto Europeo di Design

Istituto Europeo di Design, more commonly known as IED, is a fashion and design school that has been in business since the first campus opened in Milan, 1966. With a total of eleven locations in Italy, Spain and Brazil, IED works as an international network, offering short courses, three-year-programs, masters as well as one-year-diploma courses training young professionals. The school has since the beginning focused on the synergies between technology and experimentation. On top of the creativity aspect, the campuses concentrate also on the aspects of strategies and integrated communication, market issues and a new form of professionalism. The Blogazine spoke to Sara Azzone, director of IED Moda in Milan and Annaluisa Franco, coordinator and professor at IED in Florence, to find out more about a network that keeps on growing internationally.

“It might sound banal, but we must rely upon the past to make the future. One great lesson of Italian fashion is to base creativity upon functionality, as a reason for the beauty of a garment. I do think this is of crucial importance to move forward to the next design paradigm and overcome the current crisis”, says Sara Azzone when we start talking about Italian fashion, the school’s heritage and the concept of Made in Italy. Continuing to speak about Milan as a student city she says: “For both Italian and foreign students, Milan is one of the few places in Italy offering an international and complete perspective on the world of design. This means two things: as for business, collaborations with renowned companies, multifaceted job opportunities and contacts with a myriad of people who belong to this world; as for fashion design, the opportunity to have a daily contact with fashion along with a real perception of what it is, in order to use it as a tool for personal and professional growth.”

Annaluisa Franco continues: “IED is not ‘just’ a fashion, design, visual arts or management school. The co-existence of these departments truly creates a community of fresh-minded people that learn a transversal approach to the current job market and have multiple skills.” As for what Florence brings to the table she replies: “IED chose Florence mainly for the accessibility that Florence and Tuscany offer to the design fields. Many of the best-known Italian companies worldwide produce, design and sell their goods in Tuscany first. This is particularly true for fashion and high-level design brands. The connection with the region, with the know-how and high quality of artisanal works is strong. It’s a dynamic situation that brings great benefits to the students. Not only are they immersed in the cultural heart of Italian Renaissance, though rich with inspiration, but they are also close to a lot of small, medium and large companies.”


Both Franco and Azzone mention a strong relation between the different IED campuses but point out that each IED city maintains its identity, strongly connected to the culture and society of the country. A student won’t find the same undergraduate or master program in more than one location, however, the benefits of being an international network facilitates exchanges between campuses. All the IED venues also work with a variety of teachers coming straight from the professional world. “It’s fundamental” says Annaluisa Franco. The school uses an experiential, applicative and hands-on didactic approach, in which teachers who simultaneously works for companies within the industry become important. The students are given an every-day-view of the working world, where the true challenges, as well as solutions, can be discussed. “Professionals may take teaching classes to improve their in-class presence but if you’ve never worked in the professional world, you will end up having nothing to teach about.”

Sara Azzone agrees. “What makes the difference, of being a ‘good’ fashion school, is the capacity to prepare your students to face the demands of this world by training them as true professionals and giving them the opportunity to be constantly in touch with people working in contemporary fashion.”

“At the risk of sounding blasé – the world is not what it used to be”, comments Franco when the discussion goes towards the difficulties of the business of today and the changes of an industry in constant progress. “What attracts people in fashion has changed, often these changes are still overlooked and non-defined. To only offer ‘fashion design’ when the industry is looking for social media experts, CAD-CAM modeling know-how or eco-innovators doesn’t make sense. The jobs and figures in the industry are new and therefore we, on the educational side, have to create a structure for something that others don’t know how to ask for yet.”

During its almost 50 years of existence, Istituto Europeo di Design has built up a dynamic and interconnected system – effective and stimulating and a place where its students can create their first network of connections. So, what is the recipe for success in a business that only seem to become tougher? “Read, watch, listen, talk to people, absorb as much as you can – there is no other way to be successful. Do not be afraid to express yourself – and of course, work hard.”

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of Istituto Europeo di Design 
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