02/07/2012

Met at Pitti 82: Pirelli

Met at Pitti 82: Pirelli

As we have been reporting live and after, The Blogazine met a lot of people, saw a lot of brands and discovered many new collections during Pitti Uomo n°82. During the upcoming weeks we are giving you the best of our Pitti summer 2012 and first up is Pirelli, the Italian company returning to the roots with their S/S 13 collection.


Pirelli PZero knows how to put you in the mood for a moment of motor sports. With a racing paddock inspired stand in the middle of the Cortile della Ghiaia inside Fortezza da Basso and girls with bright yellow umbrellas welcoming you, they pull the visitor into the hospitality of motor sports. The garage-like, stripped down interior was simultaneously both a great contrast and in line with the new collection, fully inspired by motor sports and the aesthetics of the world of adrenaline. The references were seen in more or less every piece, from the bestselling sneaker Rex, which holds the iconic Pirelli tire print in the rubber sole, to the sleeve patched biker jackets, as well as in the wide-ranging colours of the racing polos.

For Spring/Summer 2013 the brand had also experimented with garment dying, a technique normally reserved for cotton or nylon. Pirelli PZero had taken the dying one step further and applied it to the rubber bomber jackets, a technical garment, holding the Pirelli signature logo. Besides the classic racing standards, big logotypes, patches and rubber feel in both jackets and shoes, the collection also presented a new graphic t-shirts where the 1950’s Pirelli pin-up girls had been re-interpreted by artist Adam Haynes.

The Spring/Summer 2013 by Pirelli PZero is limited to a few key items which work perfectly for the road the brand is taking, with the clear references to the world where they seem to be completely at home.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe 

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02/07/2012

Men’s Fashion Week Paris

Men’s Fashion Week Paris

After a trip to London, and a few air miles to Milan, the Fashion world turned its ever-watchful eye to the Parisian runway.

Last week, London’s first own fashion week for men saw the light of day, and few were surprised by the edgy performances from upcoming artists presented. Afterwards Milan took the wheel during the midsummer’s celebration, before it was time for the giants of Paris to present their collections for the fall and winter.

Acne’s Johnny Johansson has previously expressed a wish to make clothes that simply flatter both sexes equally, without differentiating. Whether he succeeded to blur gender lines with this somewhat masculine denim collection is discussable, but the collection did provide a few memorable moments with its slouchy hats.

Rick Owens surprised no one when presenting yet another flawless collection, and a part of his successful concept seems to be that he translates archived women’s wear into menswear.

Lanvin’s collection almost took an ironic twist, when taking back Céline‘s tomboy silhouette and slick detailing to the men’s arena with leather tops, luxurious slacks and belts that created a stark contrast.

On the circus-side the designer Thom Browne held up his usual end of the bargain with multi-coloured square clothing and avant-garde silver face paint. By what seemed like major inspiration from St. Martin’s graduate’s collections, Browne managed to create the eccentric colour explosion every fashion week needs.

And finally we have Team Margiela that had experimented with materials as usual. Even if they couldn’t turn polyester into gold, they still managed to turn cotton into what looked like silvery leather. In a collection that at the first glance might appear plain, this fabric experimentation felt modern and relevant for contemporary men’s fashion.

Petsy von Köhler – Images via Style.com 

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29/06/2012

Pitti Bimbo n°75 – Highlights

Pitti Bimbo n°75 – Highlights

When attending yesterday’s opening day of Pitti Bimbo in Florence, The Blogazine had a whole bunch of colourful, cool, technical and beautiful children’s wear collections presented to us. Here are a few highlights from the day in the children’s world.

The elegant and classy lines of Pinco Pallino, the children’s wear collection by Imelde & Stefano Cavalleri was presented in a large area, solely dedicated to them. The couture collection presented beautifully embroidered jacquards and laser cut, flower patterned dresses in pink, light green and ivory tones while the main line gave us more energy through bright green and deep pink. The company also presented their support for SOS Children’s Villages during the fair, to highlight the importance of their work.

Other brands presenting high level couture were Ermanno Scervino, Roberto Cavalli and Fendi. All drawing inspiration from their main lines, they presented collections translated into children’s garments with a playful touch to the otherwise grown-up style. The fluorescent fabrics and details were present in all of the collections, and where Cavalli had the animal prints as an obvious reference, Fendi had re-used certain details straight off the catwalk, to create a connection between the two worlds.

Datch is another brand which has taken the core inspiration from their men’s and women’s wear to dress the little “Datch Dudes” for an exciting Spring/Summer 2013. The phenomena exclusivity and second to none count also in the kid’s wear world, and in fact Simonetta took the opportunity of Pitti Bimbo to create a special event and limited edition collection together with one of Florence’s finest luxury stores, Luisa Via Roma. The last night’s event was the first in-store event exclusively dedicated to children’s wear. The showcased LimitED t-shirt reproduces Andy Warhol’s image of Marilyn Monroe, and is aiming at paying homage to timeless beauty.

Two brands with slightly more technical and street profiles are Stone Island and Diesel. Eventhough Diesel presented strass and studs, and a capsule collection with Swarovski detailing, the core of the collection was doubtlessly the jeans. The denim inspiration was present in the overall feel and wash of the garments as well as in the large selection of denim pants and materials. At Stone Island the kids’ collection and its materials were pretty much the same as of the ones in the main collections. The pieces were highly researched and of high quality, and in some cases the exact model of what you will find in the size for the parents. Overall, as mentioned before, the trends for the little ones seem to follow the trends of the big ones – with a little more joy and colour!

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe 

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29/06/2012

Pitti Bimbo n°75 – Couture for the Little Ones

Pitti Bimbo n°75 – Couture for the Little Ones

Yesterday was the starting day for the 75th edition of Pitti Bimbo, one of the largest fairs dedicated to children’s wear. Runway shows, creativity, classic wear and sportswear topped off with high-end lines, and for the first time 2DM Blogazine attended this 360° view of couture for the little ones. During one day we discovered trends, brands and how companies align their children’s lines with their main ones.


Pitti Bimbo presented us large fashion houses, famous names and acknowledged design together with smaller labels and companies fully devoted to children. The collections often draw a lot of inspiration from the “grown-up” fashion trends, but the special colours and playfulness were present through detailing and prints. Just like any high-wrought collection, the ones of the children’s wear were complete with accessories ranging from shoes, bags and eyewear to hats, decorative gloves and jewelry. Within the colour scale of blue, pink, green and yellow the tones varied from washed-out pastels to bright effects, and the fluorescent details were consistent from many brands. This edition of Pitti Bimbo also offered a whole section dedicated to ‘green’ fashion. The brands exhibiting in the EcoEthic pavilion have made sustainable fashion a part of their brand signature, and no matter from which part of the world, they are all working to protect local manufacturers and ‘save the planet’.

When seeing the collections presented, it is easy to forget that we are talking about children’s wear. From the fluo colour details reminding of the collections seen at last week’s Pitti Uomo to the precious embroideries and researched materials, the themes, designs and details were as thought through as for any fitted men’s or women’s collection.


Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of Pitti Immagine 

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26/06/2012

A Narcissism Story for C’N'C Costume National

A Narcissism Story for C’N'C Costume National

Late May in Paris, stylist Anna Schiffel and 2DM Management’s own photographer Tung Walsh, met up with Yuri Pleskun to shoot the new C’N’C Costume National F/W12-13 campaign. Yuri, who has a long list of editorials on his resume (Vogue Hommes Japan, Another Magazine, Vogue Italia and campaigns for Marc Jacobs and Balenciaga, just to name a few) had fellow model colleague Hailey Gates by his side, in this narcissistic but yet appealing story.


C’N’C is the avant-garde street couture collection by Costume National, the Italian fashion house founded in 1986 by Ennio Capasa. Pleskun, who had his breakthrough in a Topman campaign, lets his playful charm shine all the way in the Fall/Winter 2012-13 campaign for C’N’C Costume National. The new, slightly digital approach towards advertising was created at the MK2 Bibliotechque and Le Pompon in Paris, where the dark autumn wardrobe styled by Anna Schiffel is coming to its right. The campaign, produced by Al Dente, shows off a story of self-love and narcissism where Tung Walsh is handing over the camera to the models, letting them call the shots.


Lisa Olsson Hjerpe

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25/06/2012

Pitti Uomo n°82 – The Start Off

Pitti Uomo n°82 – The Start Off

During four hot days The Blogazine attended Pitti Uomo n°82 & Pitti W, running between stands, shows and events, making the most out of the Florentine equivalent to Fashion Week. We saw new young talents and re-visited some that we’ve met before. We made new friends and caught up with the old ones, discovered new brands and got all the insights and stories from behind-the-scenes. Throughout the week it was a joyful and well-dressed crowd full of character that started one of the most hectic fashion periods in Florence together with us.

As mentioned before, it was the Swedish talent Erïk Bjerkesjö who proved his talent and opened the week by winning the Who Is On Next award. The same evening at Stazione Leopolda, Stone Island inaugurated the 30 years retrospective – an exhibition focusing on the company’s tremendous history of research in fabric, sportswear and innovative techniques. The installation and S/S13 presentation by Peter Pilotto offered a wide range of colours integrated in the graphic prints, while Andrea Pompilio and Carven worked with accentuating colours and hints of sportswear inspirations well incorporated in the fine tailored collections.

During the week we discovered remarkable detailing and thought-through products, in which design goes before fashion. Historical research had been transformed into contemporary collections while others went back to the roots and the core of their brands.

Like Mr. Pompilio said after his show on Thursday evening, Florence is a great centre for menswear, and most designers are honoured to be a part of that experience. For the audience that headed to Milan on Friday, and then onwards to Paris, the official fashion weeks for menswear got a great start!

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe 

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23/06/2012

Zegna Goes Prints – Exclusive Preview SS 2013

Zegna goes prints – exclusive preview SS 2013

In a few moments Ermenegildo Zegna are going to carry out the S/S13 collection on the runway, available for anyone not in Milan to see through a live streaming as well. It was the new interpretation of silk and the longing for couture that encompassed the collection, when The Blogazine got an exclusive preview in the Zegna atelier.

High-waist slim trousers and sober saddle shoulder jackets underline the well-defined and confident silhouette of the SS13 man by Zegna. The Zegna Silk project is an important part of the summer collection, as well as the banana tree leaves and all over tropical inspired prints. The colours range from classic ivory to blue and gray, accentuated by hues of teal, tabacco and red. The fine silk fabrics have an alternative in the Irish linen, and the look is completed with the moccasins in leather or silk, luggage inspired bags, silk ties and printed scarves.

Even with the sportier part of the collection Zegna manages to keep their elegance, and it’s a laid back but self-assured man we will see at the catwalk today, balancing with fine Italian tailoring and eccentricity.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of Ermenegildo Zegna 

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22/06/2012

Persephoni and the Greek Fashion Crisis

Persephoni and the Greek Fashion Crisis

Spending the week in the whirl of Pitti Immagine Uomo 82, we lay the Pitti harvest to soak in our minds for the weekend, and we continue the tour through Greece’s fashion industry in the storm of the economical crisis by interviewing Peni Giannaki and Bill Georgoussis – the couple behind the Greek accessory label Persephoni.

Bill is a fashion photographer and Peni is a set and costume designer, and together these two occupations – combined with their passion for architecture – constitute the world of Athens-based Persephoni.

Peni Giannaki claims that the Greek people are often surprised to hear that Persephoni is a Greek brand, “Persephoni doesn’t have a national identity. However, there is definitely a movement that is coming out of Greece, but we don’t have a cohesive style yet. You could say that the brand is based on an ironic take on Greek traditions and customs”.

Starting out a couple of years ago, expectations on general acceptance from the fashion world were low. However, Browns London, Vogue Italia and Steven Meisel soon put a stop to the doubts. “The big boom came when stores we respected started ordering Persephoni, and the press gave us so much attention so quickly”, Peni acknowledges. However, being a brand based in Greece, the couple has definitely seen the backside to the financial situation.

“As an industry, fashion in Greece never really existed beyond its shores. Local fashion heroes are struggling on their own, but it’s really tough to grow somewhere when there is no fashion substructure or education. The only real industry that does exist are a few dominant high-street brands which compete with big international chains.”

To survive the financial crisis, Peni tells us that they are doing their best to remain calm and positive. “
It is really hard when you realize that your country’s future is hanging by a thread. There are a lot of businesses closing down but at the same time there is a strong business movement driven especially by young people who seek alternative, creative and productive business solutions. We are two of them. The whole financial crisis here is more psychologically crushing than anything else,” he concludes.

“What comes to the future for Greek fashion, I know there are many well-known Greek designers but unfortunately they’re not based in Greece. That makes for a weak fashion ground and future development. But at least it’s good to know that there’s Greek blood running around the international fashion veins.”

Petsy von Köhler – Photo courtesy of Bill Georgoussis 

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22/06/2012

Carven – A Perfect Ending of Pitti Uomo n°82

Carven – A Perfect Ending of Pitti Uomo n°82

It was with a sense for details, a good show and with a great portion of humour that the Pitti Uomo 82 Guest Designer Carven (with artistic director Guillaume Henry at the helm) presented the men’s collection last night. The special event was held at the Club Sportivo Firenze in Campo Velodromo delle Cascine; an old-school sports arena, beautifully decorated as a true Italian dining hall in the open air. Accompanied by black and white bow-tied waiters, live music and a sports commentator in the speakers, The Blogazine took part in the closing event of Pitti Uomo, while enjoying a seated dinner and a colourful collection.

Carven is one of the historical French labels that have gained international attention through the artistic director and designer Guillaume Henry’s creative research. The affordable luxury in perfect line with clean silhouettes and contemporary men’s fashion has brought new strength to the almost 70 years old fashion house. Last night’s special event for Pitti was a joyful moment and an unforgettable experience mixing Italian food culture and sport with fashion and laughter. The collection was brought out by male models rushing on foot or on bikes towards the finishing line, accompanied by black-and white suited waiters.

The great range of colours and contemporary elegance were an eminent contrast to the figurant waiters’ suits, and even though more focus was put on the actual show and the whole feeling created by Pitti Immagine and Carven, it was a great environment to show the collection.


Before the start of Pitti, Guillame Henry said that he hoped this unexpected rendez-vous outside of Paris and out of any calendars to be the occasion to express the freshness and the spontaneity that he is trying to forward through the label’s collections for both men and women.

He concluded with the sentence “Shall we meet in Florence, in pleasure and full of joy!” Merci monsieur Henry – we sure did!


Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of Pitti Immagine 

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22/06/2012

Andrea Pompilio’s Metropolitan Man Back in Florence

Andrea Pompilio’s Metropolitan Man Back in Florence

In January Andrea Pompilio presented his F/W12-13 at Pitti Uomo n°82, an appreciated collection with an after-following media coverage that was of great help for the young brand. For this edition, Mr. Pompilio was back as one of the special events on the Pitti calendar, presenting S/S13 with a runway show at the Stazione Leopolda in Florence. The designer continued to combine fine Italian tailoring with a fresh metropolitan look where colours and the play with details were in focus.

The Blogazine met Andrea Pompilio for the first time in February for a 4-question-interview and discovered where the inspiration for his contemporary man comes from, as well as the must-wear-item for the “Pompilio man” Summer 2012. After the show last night at Stazione Leopolda, we met with the designer again.

“I love the last looks, and the oversize shirts and the new Capri inspired prints, but no, I don’t have only one favorite item in this collection– it’s so much larger! We showed 26 looks tonight and that is only one fifth of the collection.” About his feeling of being back in Florence with a special event he said, “Right now I am so happy, and so happy it’s over [laughs]! I love Florence, it is a fantastic centre for men’s fashion, and the cool, cheerful feeling during Pitti is unmistakable. Of course I also want to thank Pitti Immagine for all the support, giving me the opportunity of creating this event.”

During our talk Pompilio also mentioned the importance of colour in the collection, as well as the mesh as an important material for the summer collection.


The colours of the collection ranged from toned-down blues, greens, reds and yellow to popping orange and neon yellow. The white crisp shirts had colourful stripe detailing and the shorts were matched with high knee socks with a back-seam-stripe. The show presented a metropolitan look inspired by the real-life-man, balancing on the everyday wear and sport-inspired details.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of Pitti Immagine 

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