20/07/2012

Met at Pitti 82: 10A

Met at Pitti 82: 10A

10A is an Italian company that evolved from being a research lab producing 10 pairs of trousers with suspenders per month, to a full collection brand, producing not only trousers but t-shirts, bags and sunglasses for both men and women. The naval inspiration for the Spring/Summer 2013 collection was reflected in the Alternative Set that 10A treated their audience at Pitti Uomo 82; a regatta with radio-controlled boats and a smokestack spewing steam and making sounds.


AAAAAAAAAA, the research lab from where it all began is the product of the meeting between product designer Matteo Cibic and Daria Dazzan, fashion designer. The specific trousers with suspenders, in the finest of Italian materials, were successful and celebrated in the press, and led to the continuation of transforming the lab into a brand; 10A. The men’s collection for S/S13 continues with classic Italian tailoring, and trousers with the patented suspender system and the engraved logo in the back as a strong core. Though, it was a pleasure to see how the main product had evolved into a full style, refined by the leather bags and sunglasses. The loose fitted garments had alternatives in a slim cut, and the light materials did well in the combination of vintage inspiration. New trouser models and the new striped 10A t-shirt all came together in a light version of the navy uniform. Aside from the fabrics, also the colours were a part of the nautical inspiration, ranging from white and navy blue to light grey and green.

The previously mentioned regatta took part in the Piazzetta della Ronda at Fortezza da Basso. Four models dressed in the S/S13 proposal were directing the mini boats accompanied by steam and smoke in an amusing event, perfectly presenting the concept of 10A.


Do you remember the special lookbook project we did with 10A in Spring 2011? See it here.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe

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19/07/2012

Jan-Jan van Essche: Fashion Independent from Trends

Jan-Jan van Essche: Fashion Independent from Trends

32 year old Belgian designer Jan-Jan Van Essche, a 2003 Graduate from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts of Antwerp and winner of the prestigious Dries Van Noten award has just returned to his Antwerp atelier following the presentation of his 3rd collection “In Awe” in Paris.

The Blogazine caught up with Jan-Jan to hear all about his inspiration and philosophy behind his work.

You design only one collection a year, which is a really original approach in today’s fashion industry. Why did you decide to create only annual collections?
Partly for practical reasons, so I can take my time and grow into it, to have time to make mistakes and learn from them.

I also realize that I wear my own clothes all year around, I just layer up or layer down depending on the season. It’s a practical ingredient.
Secondly it is out of respect for the craftsmanship, cloth making and tailoring; there is far too much attention and love which goes into any garment to make it a “temporary” item which you would put aside after 3-6 months. It doesn’t fit my philosophy.

Tell us more about your philosophy, and the mentality your collections stand for.
In a way I am working on a continual line, each of the collections should fit together, so the wearer can combine pieces from 3 years ago with new pieces from the “In Awe” line. Though the collection is presented as a menswear collection, it has a lot of pieces I consider unisex. Most of it is one size, exclusive and limited, each piece is individually numbered.

I traveled for a while in Africa before I started my own label; this has been a big influence and inspiration which continues throughout my work. The line is about comfort and elegance but in a natural way, I’m constantly searching for new forms, shapes and items but without being too radical. I think the men who wear my clothing like calming, soothing and practical clothes; most men don’t like to make big statements.

What is your inspiration behind the “In Awe” collection?
“In Awe” is the name of a song by Midnite, a reggae band from the Virgin Islands which I couldn’t stop listening to. They are quite a meditative, obscure band, their songs are almost like recited mantras. Also someone used the words “in awe” when talking about my last collection, it was a new phrase for me and I liked it. The line is about pieces I am in awe of, it’s less about silhouettes but pieces I want to have in my own wardrobe. Like a trench coat kimono, an over-sized central Asian pant or a European nightwear shirt.

Who wears the Jan-Jan Van Essche label?
Independent, thinking people, people who are into fashion and beautiful things but not in a trendy way. I know quite some women who wear the collection too, mainly the tops. Last year I was in Tokyo and met some people wearing my clothes just as I’d hoped they would be worn, it was really inspiring.

I have an army of about 15-20 people in my head who I design for. I’m still searching for my clients though, I don’t know them yet, I am still looking who they are. This will grow as I see my clothes being worn, I want to grow together with my clients.

How do you see the future of your label?
Well, I’d like to reward all the people who are helping me who have worked so hard, to keep growing slowly but surely and to stay genuine to my ideas.

What do you like to do outside your work?
Well, there is Atelier Solarshop; a platform for art, design, fashion and other beautiful things that I co-curate.

And when there is the opportunity I like to go to reggae concerts from time to time.

Also two friends of mine started a Sunday morning breakfast club, I try to go as often as I can, for the amazing food, the lovely people and the great atmosphere. It strengthens my inner self both mentally and physically.

Tamsin Cook

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18/07/2012

Met at Pitti 82: Esemplare

Met at Pitti 82: Esemplare

A young brand yet full of rich history, that is Esemplare N°61. With the roots in the province of Reggio Emilia and the company Manifattura Riese, Esemplare approaches the menswear area with exclusivity and innovation in focus. The Blogazine met them during Pitti Uomo to hear more about the barely two-year-old company, that has already made it into the big department stores.

It’s the quality and detailing without any excessive elements that round up the Spring/Summer 2013 collection from Esemplare. Head designer Alessandro Pungetti, who earlier worked for CP Company, brings together the technology of innovative materials and treatments with style. The collection, which presents an urban man, holds a lot of sporty aspects without losing its amount of sophistication. Reversible pieces and garment dying add to a certain uniqueness, even though it is a discrete collection that lets the fine Italian craftsmanship – and the man wearing it – shine through. Despite the youth of the brand, Esemplare mediates the feeling of know-how and a multi-faceted view on menswear.

The knowledge, which is well anchored in the 50 years of family history and Manifattura Riese together with an unmistakable sense for classic turned contemporary, has taken the brand outside of Italy and around the world. Bergdorf Goodman, Fred Segal and Merci are just few of the department- and multi branded stores that have picked up on the exemplary quality. Esemplare is one of the few young brands focusing on the essentials; the technology and the innovation. It’s not about superfluous or extravagant focal points, but the quality of materials and the quality of dressing people that matters.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe

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12/07/2012

Met at Pitti 82: Carlo Rivetti of Stone Island

Met at Pitti 82: Carlo Rivetti of Stone Island

In occasion of Pitti Uomo 82, Stone Island celebrated the company’s long history of successful collections, high technological fabric research, and being a brand experimenting with techniques often foreign to the fashion world. The retrospective exhibition Stone Island 30 shows over 200 garments from 30 years of collections along with the recently published book showcasing the immense archive, for the very same occasion. While in Florence, The Blogazine met with Mr Carlo Rivetti, the CEO and owner of Stone Island.

Buonasera mr Rivetti! The exhibition is great, how do you yourself feel about the final result of it?
I’m very surprised by the general response to the exhibition. First of all, there has been an unbelievable attendance by the press but also by our customers. As well, we invited and organized a bus to bring all the people from our factories from Emilia here. Without these people, this exhibition would not exist!

The exhibition has taken us from 1982 to 2012. How has the trip been?
It’s been more of a flight than a trip! Times flies… too fast! I think this is a milestone, not only in our history but also in the evolution of the man over the past years.

And what comes next?
Well, first of all we need to file the exhibition into our archive. As you can understand, we are very fond of all historical aspects and we need this as a memory for the future! I believe, well, we believe in the Internet a lot, and in all the new types of media – the Internet is like an elephant, hahaha, it doesn’t forget anything! Hopefully the effect of the exhibition will live on forever, in some way. Other than that, we will start working on a mobile application in the near future.


Is there anything in your archive that you can see working as well in the future?
It’s interesting that you ask. Yesterday I was in our showroom in Milan, and it is amazing to see how the Tela Stella, our initial material, has been under constant evolution all this time. And now, for the S/S 2014 collection we’re taking it aboard and transforming it into something new. I have been told many times that if you would change the features of our first original collection just a little bit, it would be very contemporary. So it’s really an interesting mix between the past and the future that stands before us.

How does it come that Stone Island is so devoted to the area of innovation?
Innovation is the DNA in my company, and you know; a company is built by people. My people have their DNA in the field of research and developing techniques, they keep on pushing for innovation all the time – it’s fantastic!

Your strength often lies in the fabrics, the technical research and the functionality. How do you see the balance between sportswear and fashion?
I don’t recognize myself in the fashion business, I see myself much closer to industrial design. Stone Island doesn’t do shows, we don’t do presentations, we don’t do fairs, we do zero. A couple of years ago a British newspaper said that Stone Island is the best kept secret in the fashion industry, and that I am very proud of. I believe in this type of communication instead, because I want to talk directly to the final customer. In these days, if you have a story to tell – and we got many stories to tell – and if you are consistent and respectful of your company’s DNA, people will be fascinated.

Thank you for giving us a little of your time Mr Rivetti!

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Images courtesy of Pitti Immagine

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11/07/2012

Met at Pitti 82: CAMO

Met at Pitti 82: CAMO

As a part of the Alternative Set at Pitti Uomo 82, the CAMO S/S13 Bar Collection was presented for the first time. The Blogazine was there to watch and savour in the performance inspired by Italian manners, and the movie Gli Amici del Bar Margherita (The Friends at the Margherita Cafe). CAMO is an Italian menswear line and project created by Stefano Ughetti, with whom we had a short meeting after the set’s ending.

Alternative Set is a new project during summer 2012’s edition of Pitti Uomo and Pitti W. During a number of temporary events and installations, the few selected brands were able to create special sets in various places within the walls of the Fortezza da Basso, outside of their regular stands. The CAMO set, which was created in the courtyard in front of the Central Pavilion, presented a well-dressed bunch of Italians enjoying a chat and sharing laughter, in the relaxed environment of their favourite bar.

“Each season we ‘camouflage’ the collection. Each one of them has a very specific theme, and this time around we are focusing on The Bar. You know the film Gli Amici del Bar Margherita? That’s the inspiration!” Stefano Ughetti told The Blogazine when we sat down to talk after the set. “The bar is the place where you meet people and where everyone becomes a part of the moment, there and then. You make special relationships with the staff, and as a regular, they might become your second family,” he continues. Despite the elegant yet casual outfits created for the Spring/Summer 2013 Bar Collection, Ughetti’s objective is not just to dress someone, but to make a person communicate with what he is wearing. “That’s right. I put the people in touch with the fashion and in touch with what they are wearing on that moment.”

The CAMO presentation offered a wardrobe that was pleasant to the eye in both shapes and colours, with the 80’s orange as a focal point, and nonetheless the sometimes unbearable heat during Pitti, a large crowd stopped to see the charming act showcasing Italian elegance at its top.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe

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09/07/2012

Met at Pitti 82: G-Star RAW

Met at Pitti 82: G-Star RAW

G-Star Raw is one of the companies bringing constant innovation to the world of denim, and for our second Pitti meeting, The Blogazine attended a special event in the historical Sala Ottagonale inside the Fortezza da Basso in Florence. We found out about new research, heard the story behind the collection and ran into the head designer Pierre Morisset.

High ceiling and rough brick walls characterized the environment where the G-Star Raw S/S13 collection was presented during Pitti Uomo 82. The collection offered many different parts, all connected through the one material that the company is truly passionate about; denim.

“It’s a beautiful fabric of infinite possibilities,” said Pierre Morisset. When researching the history of denim, G-Star revealed that this versatile fabric dates back much longer than many other stories tell us. This toile de chine was worn by Chinese sailors already 300 years back, and infact G-Star Raw had let the slightly Asian inspiration shine through in detailing and cuts for a part of the collection. Another important and appreciated part of the men’s collection is the Red Listing, a tribute to the vintage denim. The pieces, which are woven on vintage looms, have a specific characteristic and slender unevenness in the structure of the fabric. The disparity continues in the colours, that due to several dying processes ranges from green to the classic denim blue.

When speaking of the collection, and of the part of G-Star Elwood, the conversation turned towards the G-Star Atelier. “The Atelier is five to ten years ahead in their thinking, everything we do has a starting point there,” The Blogazine was told. After being guided through the pieces developed from the atelier, we are now even more intrigued to learn more about the place where denim is an obsession and the ideas lead to endless possibilities.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe

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06/07/2012

Angelos Bratis – Greek Fashion in Italian Exile

Angelos Bratis – Greek Fashion In Italian Exile

For the last part of our Greek Fashion-series 
The Blogazine interviewed last year’s winner of Vogue Italia’s Who Is On Next? award – Rome-based designer Angelos Bratis. We decided to find out why the man has chosen to drape his garments directly on the mannequin, and what does he think about the Greek Fashion Crisis.

How do you feel about living in Italy, what are the good and the bad sides in comparison to Greece?

The only bad thing is that I miss my friends and family in Greece. Business-wise things are much better, since Italy has a long history in fashion, and Milan, where I have based my line, is one of the most important fashion capitals.

You suit every dress to the mannequin instead of having it pre-made. Why is that? Wouldn’t it be easier to just have them pre-sown?
By draping my garments on the mannequin I try to reach and discover new forms and solutions to dress the body every time. It’s a work in progress, every dress leads you to a new one. Sometimes the most interesting pieces come from mistakes, and I love surprises.

You’ve already done almost every single fashion week, but have you had any specific turning point in your career when you felt “now it’s happening”?

It’s a long way but I do have had moments when I felt empowered to continue, like winning the first prize of Who Is On Next? in last year’s competition of Vogue Italia. And seeing the gigantic pictures of Michel Mallard with my dresses at Musée Galliera in Paris, staying on display there for 2 years.

What is Greek fashion to you?

At the moment, I don’t really see a Greek fashion school or style coming out of Greece. It’s more about individual voices that certainly have a lot to say. Though, I think the Greek goddess style is an international classic that has inspired all designers in some point of their careers and something that the Oscar’s red carpet will always adore.

What about the financial crisis, is there any hope for the fashion world?
I hope that the Greek people will find soon a way out of this European crisis that is killing their dreams and destroying their everyday life, I am looking forward to a new strong generation of young designers coming out of Greece.

Petsy von Köhler – Photos courtesy of Angelos Bratis and MagazinePress

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06/07/2012

Trends from Pitti Filati 71

Trends from Pitti Filati 71

By being a fair of the manufacturing and production side of fashion, also Pitti Filati is a season ahead with the collections. Even though the silhouettes aren’t yet in the making, the colour tendencies, materials and inspiration can be spotted already here, where the certain few trends are more obvious than others. After seeing a number of collections and having a chat with Franca Biagioli from the yarn atelier Filati Biagioli Modesto, The Blogazine was able to gather together a humble trend map for our beloved readers.

Cashmere being the premier material to count on for Fall/Winter 2013-14 is no surprise. In its pure form or blended with other yarns, it is the one material to look for in the high-end collections. “Cashmere is for sure our number one yarn. Besides the 100%, we do many many blends, creating different effects,” Franca Biagioli told The Blogazine.

The collection and the many books on display with materials and colours of Biagioli presented natural nuances ranging from the regular beige, greys and browns into warmer and more rustic shades on the deep brown or rust side of the colour scale. “For this season we have also created a material that is certified to be all natural, in both colours and the making. Only few brands will use it for the full collection, but more often certainly for a part of it,” Biagioli responded to the question about eco trends and natural processes.

The company Filpucci has created Ninetyfive, a cashmere yarn produced by re-using production waste. “Regenerating has always been the mission of this district, and now we can give new life to used elements which would otherwise be destined to die away,” the company says about the new yarn.

Besides the naturality, both Biagioli and Filpucci, together with the company Millefili, presented a more playful and theatrical side – multi-coloured blends and a wide range of vivid colours stretching all the way to fluorescent neon. A big part of the collections also consisted of work with contrasts between the matte and the luminous, mixing yarns that complement each other, and at a certain point are almost given the effect of a precious bijou.

Other than the natural versus the vivid, the collections at Pitti Filati showed airy yarnwork, where even the heaviest piece was still light and a constant play between the craftsmanship and new techniques. Every collection had also the basic pieces, such as the tweed, that has never left the building. “Every season you think that ‘OK, this time they are not going for the tweed’, but in the end we always sell a lot of it,” Franca Biagioli concluded.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of Millefili

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05/07/2012

Vintage Selection 20 – A Fashion Treasure Chest

Vintage Selection 20 – A Fashion Treasure Chest

In occasion of Pitti Filati, the bi-annual fair-event Vintage Selection is organized at Stazione Leopolda in Florence. This summer’s edition, Casual Gamers, is dedicated to sports – sports that everyone can join at the temporary “Leopolda Beach” in the forecourt of the venue. The Blogazine went to see the exhibition I.Love.Archive2 and to, for a moment, got lost in the eclectic mix of vintage clothing, accessories and design objects.

An authentic Pierre Balmain dress, 1970’s Gucci, Chanel bracelets, Hermès scarves or just non-branded but yet marvellous items – the Vintage Selection might be a research laboratory examining past trends or a tremendous treasure archive, but no matter how you look at it, the vintage and retro trends are a present element in today’s fashion. Like we were reporting before, many designers seek inspiration in passed times, and the revival of elements is obvious. Together with creative people and designers who are in town for Pitti Filati, Vintage Selection attracts a diverse crowd from curious enthusiasts and vintage collectors to Average Joes looking for original items. An hour, or two, is easily spent among the beautifully worn out leather pieces, retro glasses and delicate jewelry, and the one who has the patience to search, will find. Besides the many vintage shops exhibiting (and selling!), the visitors of Vintage Edition 20 can drift away and marvel in the I.Love.Archive2 exhibition, formed by photos from the Pitti Immagine archive.


This time around they have put on view the photos of Summer Gamers; the summer fashion of the days gone by. Throughout the four days, plenty of minor events are taking place at the Stazione Leopolda. The Vintage Bar, boogie woogie dance performances, workshops and the announcement of Miss & Mister Vintage. In a connection between yesterday and today, the opportunity of Tag Yourself Up 2 is given. Everyday between 7pm and 9pm one can dress up in vintage outfits and have a photo taken by a professional photographer posted onto one’s favourite social network.

Whether you are ready to spend some money on exclusive vintage pieces or just want to check out the fair, it is a treasure hunt worth doing.

The Vintage Selection at Stazione Leopolda is open every day from 12pm to 12am.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of Pitti Immagine

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05/07/2012

Pitti Filati 71 – Trends, Research and Creativity

Pitti Filati 71 – Trends, Research and Creativity

Yesterday the 71st edition of Pitti Immagine Filati took off at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence. Much smaller to the size than both Pitti Uomo and Pitti Bimbo, Filati is still the principal international event in the knitting yarn industry. The Blogazine is on set at the final destination of our Pitti experience this summer, and ready to get lost in a world of trends, research, ideas and inspiration for the Fall/Winter 2013-14 collections.


When entering the Main Pavilion at La Fortezza, a busy bunch of stands opens up for your sight. Books with many materials and colours lie open in front of the buyers who are comparing cashmeres, wools and every other pure or blended high-end material one could come up with. The season F/W 2013-14 in display, Pitti Filati is surely a place to discover global lifestyle tendencies, as well as it is a place where buyers and designers come to seek inspiration and creativity. Except knitting yarn brands and manufacturing companies, the fair presents Fashion At Work; an area largely dedicated to trend forecasters and style consulting, where one can discover the trends even a few seasons ahead. The Fashion At Work area also holds every type of companies with an additional interest to the target group, such as knitting machinery, dyers, buttons, fitting accessories, embroideries and so forth.


Pitti Filati is also a centre for research, and together with Fashion At Work, the Spazio Ricerca (research area) is a significant place for creativity and trend analysis. Renaissance, the theme and the title for this edition, aims at presenting the Italian culture of designing and craftsmanship skills. With two sub-themes, drawing and design, the exhibition setting at Spazio Ricerca shows, through research, technology and products, what has made Italy great in the industry.

The research exhibiton has been created under the artistic direction of designer Angelo Ficus and knitwear expert Nicola Miller. The special exhibition setting is designed by Alessandro Moradei.


Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of Pitti Immagine

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