29/05/2014

The Talented: Nomia

Origins and background story: NOMIA designer Yara Flinn has become one of the hottest appointments during the New York fashion week calendar, only a few years after she began showing there her collections. While still an art college student, Yara started experimenting with fashion in a very conceptual way – making handmade pieces and just messing around. In fact, during that time, she also staged a runway show which was more about a live video projection, than showing actual clothes, but she didn’t really pursue a career as fashion designer until she graduated and started working at the Fondazione Prada. She took the time to make a few pieces and bought some patterns she would later tinker with, discovering to be more of a process driven person. Her unique method came about by draping which helped her visualize what she wanted to make while, at the same time, revealing what she was putting together. That is how NOMIA came about, apparently by accident and pure chance.

Trademark: NOMIA pieces have a real sportswear flair and a minimal aesthetics. Therefore, it might not come as a surprise that one of Yara’s favourite designers is Helmut Lang – known for his concept of making utilitarian things, combining a fashion forward look with sportswear – a smart choice when you are designing for a New York kind of woman – a city where an effortless look is the best choice you can make.

Collections: For this Fall 2014, Yara Flinn channeled her nostalgia in a modern way. She paired Lurex-flecked mock turtleneck dresses with clean parka coats that looked pretty in pastel-coloured taffeta, for example, and matched cropped sweaters with crepe maxi skirts boasting killer high slits. For this collection, the young designer has been more playful in terms of introducing colour and experimenting with special fabrics; she latched on to still-happening fringe, which accented several pieces including a boxy T-shirt dress and split-seam tunics. Other highlights included a bomber jacket that came in plush, Astrakhan-effect velvet, and patch-pocket jumpsuits that gave off a utilitarian vibe.

Chiara Tiso 
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27/05/2014

When Fashion Meets Boardsports

We have already talked about the tricky relationship between skateboards and the fashion world. What we did not yet mention is another, wider, link between boardsports and glamour. In order to frame this highly fascinating trend and uncover its secret language, ideas and origins, we need to travel back in time and start from the very beginning.

Yohji Yamamoto was the first designer who saw beyond clear distinctions between high-end fashion and sportswear and, back in 2000s, started an innovative collaboration with Adidas, breaking down the distance between one world and the other. More than ten years have passed since that first collaboration, a decade where the boundaries have become more and more misty: think about Stella McCartney x Adidas, Alexander McQueen x Puma along with many others.

Even though the focus of the last fashion seasons is more on technical fabrics, there is quite a huge trend on boardsports, too. From big names like Marc Jacobs or Isabel Marant to name just a few, who created their own decks, to Missoni’s catwalk, where we saw male models walking in comfy and relaxed surfer looks, up to Chanel’s sport line composed, unexpectedly, of snowboards and ski attire.

Often, the interpretation of sportswear is only a matter of coolness – fashion brands want to embrace the philosophy and the attitude of sporty people – the way they can be extremely cool without much thought. Other times, they share a very similar vision of the craftsmanship and the authenticity of their labels. This is the case of the last capsule collection created by President’s and Atypical. A high-quality Made in Italy clothing line united its forces with an emerging skateboard brand based on craftsmanship. The final result of their collaboration, aims at integrating a wider concept of quality into the end product, rather than simply mimicking or evoking a far away, distant world.

Francesca Crippa 
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26/05/2014

Style Suggestions: Perforated

Whether pierced, hole punched, or laser-cut, perforated clothing and accessories can be seen everywhere this season so here are some of our suggestions so you can perfect the perforated trend.

Clutch: Stella McCartney, Blouse: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Blazer: Balmain, Shoes: Reed Krakoff,

Styling by Vanessa Cocchiaro 

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23/05/2014

Normcore – is the latest trend being trendless?

Finally we have come to a point where it is now possible to be in fashion even without being particularly interested in the subject. An old pair of trainers and a simple T-shirt have never been the central pieces of a stylish wardrobe – but the rules of fashion have now changed. Individuality has for a long time played an important role in fashion, with an endless fascination with personal and unique styles. The definition of fashionable has for a long time been almost the same as being individual, but we might have to redefine that definition.

The growing “normcore” trend was first spotted by the New York based trend-forecasting agency K-Hole, which wrote a report on the catchy concept of sameness. They stated that “normcore” leads to belonging and that the idea of conformity is taking precedence over the aspiration of individuality. The trend has grown fast since then, and it exploded on the fashion weeks this spring, with Céline’s launch of the furry ‘furkenstock‘ and Marc Jacobs’ patagonia fleeces.

The point with of “normcore” is to wear clothes for comfort rather than style, and the latest trend is therefore summed up as being trundles. The British writer and philosopher Alain de Botton defines “normcore” as the search for the perfect ideal, an ideal which does not have to be upgraded constantly. Therefore, “normcore” might be a reaction to the fast moving fashion and it might also be the result of a desire to let other values, rather than the cloths alone, define who you are. The London based designer, Richard Nicoll is of the same opinion and thinks that “normcore” shows the wearer has other talents and is unique in his or her own way, without needing to show it off.

The trend has a lot in common with other subculture-based trends, like the grunge in the 90s, which started as an anti-fashion movement, before it became mainstream following its debut on the catwalks. “Normcore” follows the same pattern. Once it becomes mainstream – everyone will start carefully choosing their clothes with the aim of looking like they do not care, where a simple T-shirt becomes a statement piece, overcoming its original purpose. That is the irony of the anti-fashion: as soon as it spreads it becomes in-fashion. And as every other trend, it will come to an end. But even if it does, “normcore’s” original message offers a case for reflection: giving value to other qualities rather than focussing on who is wearing what.

Hanna Cronsjö 
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22/05/2014

The Talented: SUNO

Origins and background story: Max Osterweis created SUNO, a New York based womenswear label, in 2008 after witnessing post-election violence in Kenya. Utilizing the vast collection of Kenyan Kangas that he had been collecting for years, Max joined forces with designer Erin Beatty to launch a high-end collection.

Trademark: SUNO utilizes the local talent of Kenya, India, Peru and New York to create a collection of unique prints, textures and embroideries.

Collections: SUNO was also a 2011 and 2012 finalist in the Vogue/CFDA Fashion Fund, and a 2012 Nominee and 2013 Winner of the CFDA Swarovski Award for Womenswear. Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty mentioned that their F/W 14 collection was inspired by the true story of Roman people who struck gold by selling scrap metal in the late 1990s and early 2000s. The resulting silhouettes were both beautiful and melancholic. The clothes recall the classic silhouettes of SUNO: long hemlines and boxy dresses with a completely muted color palette. Jewel tones dominated, next to dark, but at the same time striking metallic fabrics lit up the runway.

Chiara Tiso 
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21/05/2014

Haute Papier – Bea Szenfeld’s Fashionable Paper Trail

Mark Twain once said “Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.” But does it mean that the clothes made of paper make for a flat man? For Swedish fashion designer Bea Szenfeld they certainly don’t. Szenfled’s creations, which were crowned with accolades and awards as well as chosen by pop-icon Lady Gaga for her dramatic looks, are more likely of another dimension.

Creating fashion with paper has been branded Haute Papier and Szenfeld has become one of the most established “Papieriers”. Her Haute Papier collections bring a playfulness and excitement to an otherwise grown-up and serious fashion world. The notion that paper can be turned into fashion, however, is nothing new. The process has been around for centuries and we have all certainly seen paper creations disguised as clothes.

The novelty of Szenfeld’s creations lies in revealing the structure of the material rather than trying to make it into something it’s not. Often influenced by the written word, Bea Szenfeld’s inspiration process is unique and, in a way, expresses her quirkiness and flair. According to the designer, the texts she reads instigate a feeling which she then tries to mimic through her creations, awakening the mind to see shapes in unorthodox ways, inspiring, in turn, innovative creations and lines. While the inspirational process is somewhat guided by a gut feeling, the actual designing is particularly long and intricate. She keeps a silent dialogue with her material of choice – the paper speaks its own language and guides a process of interpretation and creation.

Working with paper, however, doesn’t come without its challenges as desired shapes and colours are somewhat difficult to obtain. The material generates a structure that cannot be recreated with fabric; it has its own will and expressiveness. For Bea Szenfeld, working with paper is particularly fascinating as it can be moulded through numerous techniques, each of them specific to a precise cultural context and location. Different types of paper and production and folding techniques can, in a sense, be viewed as a cultural and temporal statement, adding a further dimension for the wearer.

Victoria Edman 
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20/05/2014

Runways in Full Bloom

There are certain trends that never disappear, and one of those is certainly the floral prints obsession. Even though we have seen plenty of flower gowns, both throughout the history of fashion as well as on the catwalk, the latest runway shows have managed to surprise us with the introduction of 3D floral patterns.

It’s easy to find the link between newest trends and the traditional embellishment techniques, such as embroidery or appliqué, which see their origins long before the Middle Ages. At that time, its purpose was twofold: firstly, it was used as an aesthetic device in order to make clothes look more expensive and precious than they really were, secondly, it was applied to cover the underlying structure. Even though this use is now long forgotten, the lavish effect still provokes a surprising feeling.

Looking deeper into the trends proposed for Spring-Summer 2014 collections, the upcoming Greek fashion designer, Mary Katrantzou, opted for volumes obtained through the use of structured silk decorated with intricate 3D embellishments. Dolce&Gabbana followed the same line of thought, though in a more classical manner. The show’s atmosphere was particularly delicate and the floral detailing contributed in underlining the romantic mood of the runway.

The real revelation this time was Marni. Designer Consuelo Castiglioni, known for her witty and edgy view of fashion, created tridimensional skirts and dresses that appeared almost like actual blooming bushes. Paired with sporty accessories – slippers at the models’ feet and visors on their heads – this romantic look was given a contemporary and unexpected flair.

Francesca Crippa 
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19/05/2014

Style Suggestions: Transparency

Transparency is a big trend this spring, but it is definitely not the easiest one to translate from runway to the street. So how should you wear it? It’s all about balance. Sheer panels and cut-outs are a great way to pull off the trend, matched with opaque fabric to keep the look less revealing. Or go all the way and find some great figure hugging undergarments to match.

Clutch: Charlotte Olympia, Blouse: Burberry, Sunglasses: Céline, Shoes: 3.1 Phillip Lim

Styling by Vanessa Cocchiaro 

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16/05/2014

Charles James: Beyond Fashion, Behind Clothes

Being a designer means setting up questions, problems, and trying to solve them with creativity and wit (or, better, finding other problems and raising other questions related to the first: which is how we get to progress). Charles James, an individual with a pure designer mentality, decided to commit himself and his life to an object he considered ‘intrinsically wrong’. To improve it, shape it, transform it. The ‘object’ in question was the feminine body.

Charles James, raised in England but living and working in Chicago, his mother’s hometown, decided to become a fashion designer as a prank to his serious father. What was initially seen as a pure act of disrespect is now praised as one of the most notable achievements in the history of american fashion; Charles James is remembered as the greatest American couturier, praised by Christian Dior and Cristobal Balenciaga. His clothes are now seen as symbols of a certain kind of society, well fixed in time and space, surrounded by a nearly forgotten ideal of glamour and luxury. The eye James used to watch the female figure was not that of the estimator, but that of the scientist; at the basis of his creative process stands a clinical analysis of what was wrong in the body, what was inconsistent with proportional parameters and what could be artificially fixed.

The exhibition now on stage at the Metropolitan Museum of New York tries to give a reading of James’ creations beyond than the essence of a gown, proposing two levels of interpretation: the wonderfully made clothes, which speak for themselves, and their construction, their ‘secrets’, revealed by preliminary sketches, materials and 3D video animations. Charles James: Beyond Fashion gathers more than sixty of the designer’s most iconic creations, produced between the 40s and the 50s, giving great importance at the nearly scientific process that brought those pieces to life. By definition, going beyond implies crossing the limits, be it of a physical space or a discipline, passing through the boundaries of something else. Mathematics applied to fashion design, science paired with the ephemeral, interwoven in the seams of ball gowns, apparently made to become ‘mere’ poetry (as Monsieur Dior defined James’ work).

The decision to put the design process on stage permits to retrace a portrait of James as a designer and technician, purged by various reports of his disposition and manners (bad, very bad, indeed). The will of the curatorial team, with Harold Koda and Jan Glier Reeder at its head, to present James as an engineer more than a couturier pays respect to his personal story and also to his nature and ideas: the body as a perfectible structure, the cloth as a medium. It also permits to reread his work inscribing it into new categories, inspected and experienced by some of today’s most interesting curatorial practices, able to build a conversation and a discourse between superficially opposite objects.

Charles James: Beyond Fashion will run until August 10th 2014 at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

Marta Franceschini 
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15/05/2014

The Talented – Rejina Pyo

When summed up in fairly few number of words, the story of fashion designer Rejina Pyo might appear nearly identical as any other young and talented designer’s biography. Born abroad (Korea) and currently living in London, after graduation at Central Saint Martins, Pyo worked alongside Roksanda Ilincic before establishing her own brand. Nevertheless, in only three years after her graduation, Pyo collaborated with H&M-owned high-fashion store Weekday to sell pieces from her graduate collection, participated in the “ARRRGH! Monsters in Fashion” exhibition curated by Vassilis Zidianakis, won the prestigious Han Nefkens Fashion Award and created an installation for the Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen in Rotterdam.

In the meantime, Rejina Pyo has also managed to develop several collections under her name, characterized by clean lines, geometrical detailing and a particularly sophisticated allure. It shouldn’t come as a surprise then, that the structural element in Pyo’s work derives from her obsession with abstract art – paintings by Ellsworth Kelly or Isamu Noguchi’s sculptures – with its simple, primitive aesthetics and blocks of colour. Pyo’s work somewhat explores the blurred lines between art and fashion, creating pieces that are often sculptural and bold, an approach that was particularly evident in her installation in Rotterdam, where Pyo created pieces resembling traditional garments, though none of them were wearable.

Her latest AW 2014 collection further explores this approach. By taking inspiration from Ellisworth Kelly’s words – “I think that if you can turn off the mind and look only with the eyes, ultimately everything becomes abstract” – Pyo has developed a collection where “each garment is used almost as a canvas for an abstract painting, streamlined and minimal in places, and then brought to life with a flash of strong colour in the form of diagonal square panels that act as a unifying theme, reappearing in various sizes throughout the collection. From the belt in an elegantly oversized coat, that cleverly weaves its way around the garment, to the panel of faux fur used in a dark blue evening sweater and the stunning hand painted shard of colour on the shoulder of a white shirt.”

Rujana Rebernjak 
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