10/02/2012

Scandinavian Fashion, Function & Compassion

Scandinavian Fashion, Function & Compassion

Amidst the glamour, bliss and cold hard business of Copenhagen Fashion Week, the Swedish brand Resteröds made an unconventional and powerful set of statements. First, its runway presentation opened with a spoken poem about life on the street. Then, a collection of well-designed, everyday apparel with a sharp focus on usable quality was presented on the catwalk, worn by the very same people that the opening poem referenced: the homeless.

The brand, which is not a regular on the catwalk, was presenting a fully new collection for AW12 – a collection that otherwise has remained more or less untouched over the past 70 years. And raising eyebrows with its unconventional show has turned out to be a rather smart PR move, and it has raised money for a cause that often gets relegated to the gutter, so to speak. It also gave the brand a chance to show off a new edge in its designs, made all the more powerful in combination with an issue that left a mark in the minds of the audience.


We could continue by discussing Corporate Social Responsibility and the imperative for companies to take actions. We could reflect over whether the show was born of genuine concern for ethics or whether it was a publicity stunt. But it might be more important just to highlight the fact that the fashion industry holds a tremendous amount of power. And unconventional initiatives like this are a way to leverage that power to call attention to just causes.

Maybe it was the presentation or maybe it was the hefty knits, but the Resteröds AW12 catwalk show made the otherwise cold Scandinavian winter feel just a few degrees warmer.

The Resteröds AW12 charity show was organized in co-operation with Hus Forbi, a Danish newspaper for the homeless.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Images Copenhagen Fashion Week®

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06/02/2012

Made In Italy – A Label Or A Concept?

Made In Italy – A Label Or A Concept?

When a class of Fashion Marketing & Communication students got the question of what first comes to their mind when thinking of the phrase “Made in Italy”, most of them answered quality, followed by other affirmative expressions. The following question, if a label spelling Made in Italy today brings out the same favourable words with the same level of certainty, got a more inconsistent reaction from the group. The matter is, as of today, does a label promising Made in Italy truly equal high-end quality?

It’s a fact that the Italian craftsmanship and production quality have had a rough ride during the recent years, and questions regarding what actually constitutes Made in Italy have been intensely discussed. Renowned and prestigious fashion houses, such as Gucci and Fendi, are trying to keep up with their legacy, sustaining the quality level and maintaining the reputation as true Made in Italy companies. By the end of 2010, Fendi published the book “The Whispered Directory of Craftsmanship: A Contemporary Guide to the Italian Hand Making Ability” and on Gucci.com the visitor can find a section dedicated to the subject, communicating their focal point; “Made in Italy is an integral part of the essence of Gucci and goes beyond being a mere slogan.” Part of the problem lies in the fact that many brands have moved a great deal of the production overseas, while keeping the label marking “Made in Italy”. Borders are being pushed and the difficulty lies in determine how big part of the goods have to be manufactured in Italy to earn the right for the label.


Further hitches have been found for example in the situation of Prato, the famous Italian production district. In the late 1980’s, Chinese labourers began to settle down in this little city, right outside the legendary fashion city Florence, transforming the textile centre into a fast-fashion and low-end production area. Today Prato holds more than 3000 businesses using Chinese workers to produce low-end garments, shoes and accessories. Materials are often imported from China and products are sold through mid-price and low-end retailers. The line between Made in Italy and Made in China has become very fine, and high-end manufacturers are having a hard time competing with the Chinese factories’ low prices.

In the middle of this discussion it is refreshing to discover young, small companies who still have the inspiration and boldness to start up Made in Italy businesses. These are creative young people who are taking their Italian heritage with them into the future. Organizations such as Mad in Italy and Cento per cento Italiano are actively working to protect the status of Made in Italy. The question that we find important for the future is what we want to do with this legacy. Protect it, or protect and re-launch it in a way that is adaptable to how the market is looking today. Is Made in Italy a label, or is it a concept and a way of thinking and feeling “I wear quality”?

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Photos courtesy of HALO Labels

 

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26/10/2011

Carolina Melis Across the Board

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Carolina Melis Across the Board

Over the last few months we have seen some really cool work from the talented Carolina Melis, but don’t expect her to be taking a break from the artistic spotlight anytime soon. The latest feather in the 2DM starlet’s hat is a recent illustration in Vogue Japan. With her art adding just the right amount of oomph to the usually mundane rubrice section, Carolina uniquely reinterprets magazine art direction and page layouts. Aptly she has done so in Vogue Japan; who, ever since its inception has always marched to the beat of its own drum. For a real glimpse of visual joy in true Carolina Melis style a quick glimpse at the Vogue Japan website shows her illustrations in motion.

With illustrations that leave you feeling pure tranquil joy it’s no wonder that Swedish super-brand IKEA has selected illustrations from her for their new batch of post cards. Currently in distribution in Sweden and slowly making its way to IKEA around the world, it wont be long before we have our very own.

From global super brand to fashion power house, all seem to be cashing in on the Carolina magic. The artist sports a cute piece of animation on a website of the Italian fashion mogul Prada. Stepping away from her usual nature themed psychedelic style of animation Carolina shows a side of her art sure to get you hooked on the fragrance it promotes; Prada Candy.

Daniel Franklin

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13/10/2011

An Old New Issue – Hercules Magazine

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An Old New Issue – Hercules Magazine

A few days back we celebrated the all new L’Officiel, well now the world of mens wear magazines have another rebirth to rejoice. Revamped with luxurious vigor Hercules Magazine furthers a new Universal agenda. Taking on a new form and shape the magazine moves away from it’s former larger format and strives to be more of a collector’s piece, “for in this new global world there is little place for the disposable”.

Owing to its new universal agenda the first revamped issue “Old new world- The Istanbul Affair”, is a perfect blend of timeless men’s fashion, stimulating fashion stories and an enthralling romance with the city of Istanbul.


Among the list of talented men and women responsible for the magazine`s sharp avatar are 2DM’s very own photographers Nacho Alegre and Tung Walsh. Opening the magazine is a gorgeous editorial called “Its not where you go , its what you wear” shot by Nacho Alegre. Styled by Senior Fashion Editor Laura Alcalde, the story highlights the elegant versatility of the over coat and it`s première label Emporio Armani. A few flips down Nacho knocks another one outta the park with a series of breathe taking still lives. Reminiscent of an era of travel long before todays limited baggage allowance, it featuring some of the best made luggage from the house of Loewe.


Tung Walsh collaborates with Fashion Editor Laura Alcalde to inject some youthful swag into the magazine in a beautiful editorial called “Face to Face with Elegance”. The magazine also features interesting interviews like Band of Outsiders creator Scott Sternsberg and fashion powerhouse Carine Roitfeld.


With this first Old New issue safely collected, we can`t wait to get our hands on the ones to come.

Daniel Franklin 

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21/09/2011

Pablo Arroyo at L’Officiel Hommes

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Pablo Arroyo at L’Officiel Hommes

You may have noticed L’Officiel Hommes Italia has a newfound swagger and joie de vivre in its latest issue. If you haven’t yet, you absolutely must take a closer look. Credit goes to the magazine’s newly appointed creative director, 2DM’s multitalented Pablo Arroyo. With his very first issue on newsstands now, powerhouse Pablo is certainly making waves. Imbued with his own unique take on fashion he gives the magazine a refreshingly young outlook that is much needed across the board in mens publication in in Italy.

In true Pablo Arroyo style, he thanks his skeptics for the motivation to push further. If this issue is an outcome of skeptical motivation we all could sure use some more skepticism.



With an array of mesmerizing shots of the charismatic Andre Van Noord by Tomo Brejc and a rather funky editorial featuring actor Melvin Poupaud and styled by the very talented Tom Guinness (the new fashion director of the magazines French edition) the issue taps into all ends of the fashion spectrum. The issue also invites a whole host of new collaborating photographers and stylists, key to its bold new look. Fresh to join the ranks at L’Officiel are talents such as photographers Stefania Paparelli and Andre Saraiva and stylists Jamie Stewart.

Still maintaining a classic L’Officiel look and feel, the editorials manage be edgy and transportive at the same time. A real feat, oftentimes even a struggle for classic menswear.


With this being just the beginning, we are dying to to see what lies ahead. Kudos to you Pablo!

Daniel Franklin 

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19/09/2011

The Editorial: New York / Next Stop, Milan

The Editorial: New York / Next Stop, Milan
Sporty looks. Jackets. Long, lovely dresses. And more sophisticated remixing than ever.

This New York Fashion Week hailed brighter days ahead and gracefully overcame a landmark week of mourning. Starting with light whites and billowy layers of Nicholas K and concluding on a day with a two wildly different interpretations of the 1920s by Ralph Lauren and Marc Jacobs, the week was a drastic and very positive change from last season.

image courtesy of style.com

At the end of it all, Kathy Horyn mused quite appropriate that “like little dopes, we are born back to The Great Gatsby.” And the significance of this shouldn’t be lost: a slight shift away from last year’s 1970s overdose can only mean a shift in mood away from that decade’s identity crisis and frugality. The roaring 1920s was, afterall, the orgy of excess before the massive hangover of the 1930s. But in our context, to look towards the jazz age – an era of unbridaled exuberance and optimism – seems to be a symbolic dropping of the anchor in happier, less-troubled waters. We’ll only know about the hangover tomorrow.

And despite the white elephant in the room, the ten-year anniversary of the September 11 attacks (see last week’s The Editorial), surprisingly little festivity was conceded to the week’s mournful events – and in this case, business as usual was certainly best. In perhaps the only major nod to the day’s darkness, Diane von Furstenburg handed out little American flags after the presentation of her collection in an out-of-the-ordinary gesture. Derek Lam’s collection, which was also shown on the 11th, referenced legendary architect Richard Neutra’s iconic, eponymous Palm Springs house for a very California. It was easily one of week’s best.

image courtesy of style.com

Other standouts of the week included Francisco Costa’s minimal, delicate and eminently flattering work in subdued hues (a big exception amidst lots of bright) for Calvin Klein Collection that Style.com dubbed a “palate cleanser.” Band of Outsiders’ unusual presentation of its womenswear collection finally freed it from the shadow of its (usually superior) menswear collection. And, of course, Marc Jacobs’ polarizing blast through an unlikely mix of decades – love it or hate it (I chose the latter, likening it to iTunes playing a mix of your most cringeworthy music), it was certainly original and the show itself was sensational.

image courtesy of style.com

Looking towards Milan, what can we expect? For one, With little talk of economic despair or cultural chaos, we may be getting cozy in this first decade of New Normal. It’s shaping up to be a decade of more sophisticated blending of styles, a decade in which old archetypes aren’t simply being rehashed, but are instead dovetailing into brave new paradigms. Milan will certainly continue this Remix 2.0, and we’re looking forward to Prada, Bottega Veneta, Gucci and Versace in particular.

We can also expect a continuation of the buoyant and hopeful changing winds these collections signified. The world’s collective mood seems at long last to have lifted ever so slightly. And at least in outlook, New York’s message was unequivocably that good things lie just over the horizon! And this season, like so many times before, fashion is doing a fine job of pulling the world out of its long-running funk…

Adesso, Milano!

Tag Christof

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27/07/2011

ILOVEFAKE / Seven Nine Tease

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I Love Fake / Seven Nine Tease

At long last the first print issue of ILOVEFAKE has landed. The glorious, nefarious, indulgent publication that has long done a swell job of “Celebrating the Spirit of Youth” in digital format has made the jump offline with publishers Blend Studios. This first print issue, entitled Seven Nine Tease is a mashup of ILOVEFAKE’s already well-known ethos and 1970s and 1990s styles, taps into fashion’s schizophrenic zeitgeist and runs wild with it. The issue positively pops, and is a fantastic start to what will undoubtedly be a brilliant run.

The mega personality behind the publication is none other than 2DM photographer Jolijn Snijders. Her singular vision and very, very strong sense of style has driven the project, and hers is essentially the personality the magazine itself has taken on. No small feat. And as a sweet cherry on top, the journal’s fashion director is none other than 2DM’s stylist Jordy Huinder, and the in-your-face (very Dutch) art direction comes courtesy Harold Jonk.


Inside the issue is loaded – seriously filled to the brim – with top-notch features and content. From editor Niels Erik Toren’s mind-blowing article “Sway,” to a feature on new British fashion designers, and editorials from the likes of photographers Joost Vandebrug, Napolein Habeica, Lady Tarin, Elza Jo, Alex Brunet, Joe Lai, Kristophe Kutner, Letty Schmetterlow, Ebony Hoorn, and many others. There is also some very well-placed work by 2DM’s Roberta Ridolfi, as well as a stark “Polaroid Story” by Andrew Kuykendall. Contributing stylists include Alice Godard, Hanae Uwajima, Caroline Larrivoire, Tess Yopp, David Motta and others. As well as, of course, a host of killer work by Jolijn and Jordy themselves. 2DM’s stylist Ilaria Norsa’s work also makes a lovely cameo.



Other contents include an article by Pepijn Lanen, interviews with artists Andy Denzler, Jon Fox, Dave McDermott, Worldwarwon and others, and talks with “brutally honest” photographer Michael Mayren and Stylist Anna Travelyan.

The first touchable issue of ILOVEFAKE is welcome, distinctive and fun addition to the canon of today’s best fashion magazines. It’s irreverent and feel-good and clever and aggressively stylish, and this is most definitely not the last you’ll hear about it from us.


The magazine’s launch party is set for this August 4th at SPRMRKT’s original location in Amsterdam. Be there or be square.

Tag Christof – Special thanks to Jolijn Snijders

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25/07/2011

The Editorial: Smoking Sex / Tom Vek’s Aroused

The Editorial: Smoking Sex / Tom Vek’s Aroused

Before you read another word of this, watch this video.

Now, don’t you really really want a cigarette now? I’m not generally a smoker, but I weakly went out and bought a pack after I watched it for the first time – it is importantly only the third pack I’ve ever bought. Ever. So just try to imagine the models in this excellent video doing exactly what they’re doing without them: it is unabashedly sexy because of the smoking.


Top Tung Walsh for Pop, Above Juergen Teller for Paradis

Theories about why smoking is so sexy abound. Each one as ridiculous and impossible as the next. “The cigarette is phallic.” (Lesbians think smoking is sexy, too…) “Virile young humans smoke, which has made us over time equate smoking with virile young partners.” (Plenty of fat old humans who don’t get much sex smoke, too…) “Humans had ancient ancestors with long incisors that resemble cigarettes which evolutionarily makes our brains equate cigarettes to long incisors, which equal good mates“ (Yikes. I’d like to meet the storyteller crackpot who came up with that one!) And the list goes on. And on.

Greta Garbo by Cecil Beaton

In any case, this video directed by Saam Farahmand for Tom Vek’s latest single somehow taps into smoking’s sexiness in the most positively provocative way in recent memory. Here smoking is a romp through a garden of pure, unabashed pleasure. Here it is sex. Soma. A journey from arousal to climax. And without diving into the many, many pitfalls of the habit (we know, we know, we know), fashion’s continued flirtation with the act has been unyielding, which might suggest that there is a deep, primordial connection to it after all.

Jolijn Snijders

Think of Cecil Beaton’s famous portrait of a smoking Greta Garbo. And every major fashion photographer from Avedon to Testino to Richardson to Goldin have used it in some capacity quite successfully. Juergen Teller shot vehement smoker and artist (in that order, I think) David Hockney last year. 2DM’s Skye Parrott (a disciple of Goldin), Jolijn Snijders and Bruna Kazinoti – all of whose images are laced with undercurrents of emotional and sexual tension – have each used the cigarette extensively in their imagery to brilliant effect. Tung Walsh (himself a disciple of Teller) and Vicky Trombetta, whose styles are more distant and hard-edged, as well as low-key, polished Nacho Alegre and Pablo Arroyo, have also skilfully made sexy even sexier by handing their models a cigarette or two…

Top Bruna Kazinoti, above Vicky Trombetta for Wonderland

So just as the United States one ups Europe’s screaming text warnings and follows other countries such as Australia in adding gut-wrenching images to cigarette packs, there remains quite the uphill battle. What’s wrong in mainstream society is so, so right – and per in the subversive world fashion. Even if there isn’t anyone among us who doesn’t have a hacking, wrinkly aunt somewhere to remind us by example of smoking’s devastating long-term effects…


Top Jolijn Snijders, above Skye Parrott

But the cancer sticks continue to seduce. And will until continue to do so until their un-sexy consequences become something other than distant, far-off, vague threats on crisply designed packs.

So in any case, be quite sure to augment your sexy with extreme caution. I’m throwing away my still unopened, brand-new pack today. Well, maybe I’ll smoke just one…

Tag Christof – Images courtesy 2DM, Juergen Teller and the estate of Cecil Beaton 

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22/07/2011

The Noisettes in Morocco / Jolijn Snijders

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The Noisettes in Morocco / Jolijn Snijders

2DM’s Jolijn Snijders trekked to Morocco recently to shoot Shingai Shoniwa, lead singer and bassist of London’s The Noisettes, in the north African sunshine for Modzik. The results are punchy, bright and up-close and personal.


Shingai whose incredibly powerful style is infused with a very African brand of flamboyance, has ‘tude by the truckload. Her fans know that she’s quite the amped up performer. And the editorial, called “Black Panther” brings it brilliantly to the surface. (The accompanying interview, for anyone who speaks French, is also a nice read – Shingai even mentions her goal to complete a London-Brigton course on a leopard-print bicycle.)

Styled delightfully by Flora Zoutu. Jolijn’s usual hard-edged beauty shines through… Fashion includes Aurélie Bildermann, Tom Ford Eyewear, Viv Westwood and others. Catch it in the current issue of Modzik (with a track by The Noisettes as a sweet bonus).

Isil Gun & Tag Christof

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20/07/2011

Saul Williams / A Small Conversation

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Saul Williams / A Small Conversation

“…[poetry] is somewhere between an anchor and a compass…”

The Blogazine had a long, intense conversation with legendary slam poet and hip hop artist Saul Williams in his adopted home of Paris recently. Just before the launch of his drastically different fourth album, Volcanic Sunlight on Columbia / Sony Records – as Vicky Trombetta was shooting him for a recent editorial – we talked poetry, war, and existing as an artist in Paris.

Saul is rare among pop culture figures for his progressive, thoughtful politics and his introspection-driven art, and this conversation is nothing if not introspective and thoughtful…

This short, edited by Daniele Testi, is a rare glimpse into the artist’s vision of the world. And even when not performing, Saul is an incredibly eloquent speaker. Watch the video twice to really take it all in.

Also, don’t miss Vicky’s editorial of the artist in the last issue of Modzik.

Tag Christof – Images courtesy 2DM

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