Fashion | The Blogazine - Contemporary Lifestyle Magazine

10/08/2012

Copenhagen FW Day 2: Scandinavian Promises

Everyday wear to detailed pearl embroideries, joyful colour dashes to super simplicity – day number two at Copenhagen Fashion Week offered contrasts. Always within the format of the Scandinavian vision but where the ‘One-To-Watch’, Anne Sofie Madsen, was the one who invited to dance on the international floor, proving that the time spent working for John Galliano & Alexander McQueen was not a waste.

Noa Noa was neither a surprise, nor a disappointment. In Vision’s beautiful show venue they brought out fresh, simple and natural models dressed in what the brand does best – everyday wear. Having developed into a brand pleasing a chic, younger audience as well as a confident woman who knows her choices, Noa Noa’s S/S 2013 collection gave it all. Comfortable and loose fitted in a balanced mix between detailing, patterns and uncomplicated colours, topping off the look with masculine shoes. As expected, the contrast to next attending at Anne Sofie Madsen’s show was big. One year after being the opening act of Copenhagen Fashion Week, Madsen was back at the official show venue. If we yesterday were looking for someone to push the boundaries, this was the show, today. A faded poster of various deserted holiday paradises – melted ice creams, candy crystals – those are the designer’s own words about the collection.

“This collection has been a great challenge; we have worked with much more detailed and really small scale embroideries, and we have tried to change the look from previous seasons a little bit,” Madsen told The Blogazine when we met backstage few minutes after the show. When talking about the brand’s international presence, the designer mentioned the previous London shows, the upcoming show in Milan and also revealed that she will do a show in New York this year. “We’re really starting to spread around! I’m really happy about showing in Copenhagen and I think I will always do one show here, but it’s important for me to get out and around!”

Two other designers who wanted to spread out and try the ground on new markets were Petter Hollström and Gorjan Lauseger, behind the Stockholm based brand Odeur. Yesterday evening in Copenhagen they showed a collection in all simplicity. The Blogazine met both designers after the shows to get the story behind, and to pick their brains about the future. “When starting to work on this collection, we were in the discussion about what our inspiration always is, the stories, and worlds, we build up around a collection. We really felt a need of going back to the essence of what we like; which shapes and silhouettes, materials, and just really wanted it as simple as possible. There’s a reason why the collection is called Plain!”

About why after three shows at Stockholm Fashion Week they chose to come to Copenhagen they said, “It’s both time and fun to show for a new audience and try out a new market. It’s a part of growing and it’s a part of having a goal. Also, we worked with a lot of Danish people for this season so in one way it wasn’t a choice, it just came natural to come here.” The future for Odeur holds further expansion. “We are working on new projects and new products; shoes, leather accessories and complete silhouettes. We want to be able to show what the brand is breathing. Actually we are looking for locations for our first concept store which we hope to open within a near future!”

The colours and the variety in show came first from Peter Jensen and later in the evening, DAY Birger et Mikkelsen. Jensen showed preppy looks where the few black outfits got forgotten and lost fast among the joyful colours. DAY showed just as many outfits in complete variety that one could expect out of the Danish family company. Breaking down the regular runway, the brand had instead chosen a well rehearsed choreography for the show, creating a live show room of mannequins, bringing out look, after look, after look, giving the audience time and thoughts of the complete collection.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK®

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09/08/2012

Copenhagen Fashion Week: Democratic Design

Scandinavian fashion has since long been on The Blogazine’s radar, and yesterday we went to Denmark for the inaugural of Copenhagen Fashion Week. Together with the three fairs, which will also take place during the week, the audience in Copenhagen can go from commercial looks to designers that are pushing the boundaries. Though, Scandinavian fashion might rather be known for being ‘democratic’ than avant-garde. During our first day of shows we saw adaptable collections of fine Scandinavian design and ended our day on a rooftop in the meatpacking district of Copenhagen.

The honours of doing the official opening show was given to Freya Dalsjö, the designer hailing from the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts and known for uniting fashion with art. The models were walking the runway to the rhythm of a heavy beat and in company of an army, a video projected to the backdrop. The powerful yet simple looks draw attention to military shapes in both sun visors and garments, and presented the attention to details in the cuts and concord of colours. From Freya Dalsjö’s Scandinavian commanding simplicity, to Stine Ladefoged‘s detailed and playful knits. The work between heavy and fine gauges was creating interesting silhouettes, shaping and volume.

From two fairly powerful shows to the most innocent one of the day; YDE. With the show being held outside in a beautiful courtyard and light, romantic and sensual yet glamorous, looks in colours going from soft yellow and green to strong pinks and lilac, the inspiration wasn’t to be mistaken. “I was very much inspired by flowers and wanted to create a sort of Garden of Eden,” the designer Ole Yde told the Blogazine after the show. YDE makes, beside the regular prêt-à-porter collections, also custom made pieces. “I have to emphasize that what we do is not haute couture, it’s something completely different. We create one of a kind pieces for special customers, but it can be anything from a day dress to evening wear, the important is that we make them feel good and comfortable.”

From the light and glamour, back to a dark collection at David Andersen. Both the men’s and women’s collections were carried out on the runway, and the similarities in the shapes in between were present. Tailcoat cuts, layers and material mixes presented in clean silhouettes where a little sequins, shimmer and sparks brought a pleasant life to the otherwise dark collection. The evening’s crowd pleaser came in Wackerhaus, who filled the house to the brim and presented an astonishing collection where the ‘wearability’ went from day to evening. Despite a long day behind us, we couldn’t miss the Henrik Vibskov show, which was a performance of its own, and where the graphic prints were carried out by models whose ebony skin colour brought an effective contrast to the vivid colours.

For the evening’s final stop, The Blogazine went to the meatpacking district and Soho House rooftop for Hubert‘s show with a live musical performance and models in slow motion. A collection where all the impressions of the day came together and confirmed the Scandinavian S/S 13.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK®.

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08/08/2012

Running Shoes: From Running Lane to Runway

Rewind back to the late 80s and early 90s, NYC commuters rushing to work in glam power suits teamed with running shoes and socks over nylon tights. A practical and fast way to get to the office on time without any broken ankles or heels, only to slip into those high heels ready to strut the office corridors.

Fast forward to 2012, with the 2013 Spring/Summer collection shows just behind us, there is a renewed hype to the functional athletic shoe, with designers like Raf Simons, Valentino, Missoni and Salvatore Ferragamo sending male models down the catwalk in tailored suits and fresh preppy silhouettes favouring modern running shoes as footwear. Valentino goes for camouflage tones and blurred patterned trainers worn with tailored ankle cut pants, slick sportswear and utility inspired pieces. Salvatore Ferragamo’s clean crisp line in zesty fresh colours is a striking mix of modern men’s tailoring and retro details worn with matching running shoes in acidic brights with flashes of neon.

This trend is not restricted to men only, it clearly lends itself to women also, with many women of all ages opting for a comfortable statement, mixing fashion outfits or chic modern ensembles kicked off with a pair of New Balance or neon Nike running shoes.

Of course it’s not the first time sports shoes have been a trend outside of functionality. Take the 80s rap era when the Nike Air Force 1 basketball shoe and the Adidas Superstar became firm fixtures in urban street style.

So what does this say about the mix of sport and chic as a fashion statement? With technology developing ever lighter fabrications, some running shoes weigh less than 10 ounces / 250 grams. It goes without saying that the boost in running shoe sales for such brands as Nike and New Balance represent the continued trend towards the “casualization” of society and the acceptance of sport and chic in the office. It seems more than just a fashion statement but more like a mentality and attitude of today.

Tamsin Cook

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08/08/2012

Anna Piaggi – The Queen of Extraordinary

The fashion world sheds tears over Anna Piaggi’s death. The 81-year-old fashion editor and universally recognized style icon has passed away at her home in Milan after a life filled with fame and success, leaving a great void in the worldwide fashion journalism. Contributor to numerous magazines, Anna Piaggi will be remembered especially for her “D.P. Doppie pagine di Anna Piaggi” (Double-page spreads by Anna Piaggi), the cult column on Vogue Italia, which reflected her unique and unmistakable personality.

A muse and a close friend of many important fashion players – such as Manolo Blahnik, Vivienne Westwood and Karl Lagerfeld, who depicted her in the amazing sketches in the book “Anna Chronique” – Ms Piaggi was first of all a nonconformist and an original person (when these words still had value). She was more than an exuberant and eclectic fashionista, and her way of putting pieces of clothing together reminded of artworks much more than outfits.

Maybe this is the reason why in 2006 the Victoria and Albert Museum in London exhibited her striking collection in a show entitled “Fashion-ology” including somewhere about 265 pairs of shoes, 932 hats and 2,865 dresses (just to give an idea).

We could spend thousands of words to honour this master of style, but we’d prefer remembering an image of Anna Piaggi with her expressive and theatrical make up, the curled blue hair hidden under Stephen Jones’ bizarre hats, and the vintage, multilayer clothing along with her animalier and flaming furs. Goodbye, the queen of extraordinary.

Monica Lombardi

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03/08/2012

Guest Interview n°42: Miista

Miista is an East-End London footwear brand that likes to break the rules, but always pays respect to the craftsmanship. Independent, charmingly irreverent and curious, the brand is mixing elegance with crazy in every thinkable mix of materials. The Blogazine had a chat with the founder Laura Villasenin and talked about madness, Galicia and social media.

Miista’s signature as a brand is ‘measured madness’. Do you have to be a bit mad to be in the fashion industry?
Well, I can’t speak for the industry as a whole, but you certainly have to be mad to start and maintain a shoe line! I mean, I’m living out my dream but it’s definitely a nonstop whirlwind of insanity day in and day out.

You experiment a lot with new techniques and unexpected design combinations. Do you like to surprise?
I think as a designer that is ultimately the goal. You always want to present something new, something unexpected. Derivative design is something foreign to Miista; we march to the beat of our own drum and while we spend a lot of time trending and combing the web, glossies and the streets for inspiration we try to not look too much at what other designers are doing.

You’re originally from Galicia but today you live and work in East-End London. How are you mixing the best of ‘your worlds’?
It’s interesting because these two places couldn’t be more different from one another. Galicia where I grew up is a very traditional place. The culture is strong, so naturally the fashion and really the overall social vibe are very classic and conservative – people do not really dress outside the box so to speak. What’s incredible is the local markets that are filled with handmade goods – old world artisans are creating things using techniques that have been passed throughout centuries! It’s incredible to see the craftsmanship and quality, two markedly important elements of Miista.

In London I immediately fell in love with the freedom of expression that permeates the city. East London in particular is an ‘anything goes’ kind of place and I found that to be so inspirational – there is experimentation going on everywhere; art on every wall, music from every window, and the fashion is out of this world. Exposure to all of this helped me to really tap into my own personal style. ‘Measured Madness’ as the cornerstone of our design can certainly be attributed to London’s influence, while the traditional production, quality and techniques are derived from my upbringing in Galicia. Miista is all about unexpected juxtapositioning, so really my natural view into London style through the lens of traditional Galician sensibilities is Measured Madness in and of itself! In that way I think my two worlds have combined quite nicely and I’ve really worked to showcase the best elements of each.

What part of the creative process is the most essential one, for you personally?
For me it’s always been about the initial research. I love the process of searching high and low for inspiration, and I always tend to look equally outside of fashion as within. For example, our upcoming SS13 collection is heavily influenced by biological structures, organic textures and outer space. The process of collecting all of these ideas and then editing them down to key themes and beautiful mood boards is just such a cool inspiration journey. And this time around I put together a massive board on Pinterest with all of my favourite inspiration images so it’s been really fun to be able to share that with our customers early on, and kind of give them hints at what to expect while still remaining utterly obtuse.

Talking about Pinterest, Miista have really embraced social media. Is it a PR tool you truly enjoy or a ‘necessary pain’?
We love social media and we’ve really just been having so much fun with it. We’ve always worked to remain highly interactive with our customers, and building that relationship with them through social media platforms is a fantastic way to create a legion of loyal, involved ladies. We are obsessed with the little community we have and it’s incredible to see how they relate to the collections. Basically, anyone who keeps up with us online really gets a sense of who the Miista team is and what we’re all about.

So it’s mostly just a lot of fun!
Don’t get me wrong – it’s a lot of work. There has to be a constant flow of content and a sincere rapport going on or no one will care. We make sure to keep things as interesting as possible by working new promotional angles – people want to be engaged! Also, our social media Miista, Chloe, is stationed out in NYC, so on top of having all of London to play with, having representation in both Europe and the US doubles our network of possible collaborators. It has really cemented our international brand status. American brands seem to have caught onto social media much more quickly than those across the pond, so we have a bit of a leg up on our local competition in that regard. Chloe is our secret American weapon!

A lot of what you showcase seems to be about a full styling experience and about creating a feeling for Miista, rather than only showcasing the shoes. What is the emotion you want to evoke in the recipient?
We definitely aim to breathe as much life as possible into our collections; we want them to go way beyond just another pair of shoes in your closet. Our Fall 2012 collection Electric Witches was deeply inspired by ‘90s rave culture, Boy George and elements of Victorian detailing, we’re moving back to our roots after SS12 where we dabbled in a more classic, feminine realm. Each of our four collections emanates a certain power, be it sly and wily or subdued and feminine, we live for strong statement shoes. Miista is all about strength and freedom and personality, so above all else we want our customer to feel a sense of irreverent cool.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of Miista

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01/08/2012

Roy Roger’s: Gone Surfing

With Manifatture 7 Bell, the first manufacturer company of jeans in Italy, denim has always been a natural part of the Roy Roger’s brand. Today the beach- and surfwear is becoming a natural and well-designed part of the collections, and the summer spirit is creating variation and alternatives to the company that patented the original back pocket zip 60 years ago.

Roy Roger’s beachwear has so far offered a main product in the 5-pocket model in a colour range going from vivid to pastel. This year, for Summer 2012 the brand took the beachwear one step further both in colour and fabric technique, succeeding to offer variation within one single garment. In the collection they have worked with a material that changes colour hue when exposed to weather above 20°c, and then goes back to the original tone when the temperature decreases. In a Limited Edition collection the brand is paying homage to LeRoy ‘Granny’ Grannis, the Godfather of the surf photography, and is taking inspiration from the Beach Boy era photographs. Aside from a shorter version with strong references to the original Roy Roger’s 5-pocket fit, the limited edition offers typical longer surf costume shorts.

When browsing further in the brand’s beachwear world, the surf inspiration continues to Summer 2013, as well as going back to the denim story. Roy Roger’s continues to widen the horizon for S/S13 and has besides the new hound’s-tooth pattern created also a weave in a nylon-cotton blend, which recreates the effect of denim, and thus gives the customer another variation to the plain colours. As an extension, the brand also presents a capsule collection named “Surf Heritage”. With surfing being an important reference, the capsule collection is bringing back a touch of vintage to the story with attitudes from the 50’s and 60’s, where each garment is marked by the little diary stories a surfer might have told of his journeys. The capsule collection also offers a swimsuit reproduction from the Roy Roger’s private collection in a 1950’s style, wrapping up the surfer’s style.

As the cherry on top, the Surf Heritage sends us a postcard from Waikiki Beach. A 1954 original postcard has been reproduced as the tags for the capsule collection, giving us that little extra story that we’re always looking for.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of Roy Roger’s

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30/07/2012

Christopher Shannon in an Olympic Dance

Watching the Olympic Games 2012 Opening Ceremony in London on Friday evening was like watching an enormous fashion parade. The national teams, flag bearers, performers and dancers were marching out in a delicate designer mix. Seen by over a billion people worldwide, it is hard to imagine a better spotlight than the Opening Ceremony to showcase the UK’s creative talent even though the name Christopher Shannon should be a drawing card in itself.

Shannon, together with designers Michael van der Ham and Nasir Mazhar created 350 of the 1200 dancers costumes, putting London’s East End in the limelight.

Christopher Shannon is a Liverpool born designer using “just the right amount of drama”, according to his own words, and after graduating with an MA from Central Saint Martins, the designer is now based in East End-London. His prominent work is since before known by The Blogazine and it wasn’t a surprise to us that he was one of the chosen three to represent the British fashion in such an important event.

In the crescendo of the ceremony, Shannon’s eye for clean silhouettes and high-end sport references came to its right. Together with Michael van der Ham’s, another Blogazine acquaintance, sense for contrast in colours and fabrics and Nasir Mazhar’s headgears designs – the show was on. The Opening Ceremony, which has been compared with large-scaled runway shows, has created a fashion discussion all around the world and put these three London designer’s under the public’s eye, for a very good reason.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Images from Quinn Rooney, Michael Regan, Ronald Martinez, Andrew Lamb.

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26/07/2012

Met at Pitti 82: WANT Les Essentiels de la Vie

Byron and Dexter Peart know what is essential and what is redundant. With a simple yet functional, modern yet timeless and design over fashion-philosophy the twin brothers behind WANT Les Essentials de la Vie are making everyday life easier for whoever on the move. We end our trip of Pitti meetings with this brand of quality leather and luxury accessories, where form follows function.

Byron and Dexter have designed WANT Les Essentiels de la Vie since 2006, and subtle and smart solutions for technology have been the key features from the beginning. In fact, one of the brand’s first products was an iPod case. Today the space for an iPad has become a key element in bags and portfolio’s, together with smart and clean features in the iPad cases themselves. “The accessories and the functionality of them keep changing. When we started out the iPad didn’t even exist, and who knows what the next essential feature will be,” Byron said while unzipping the signature gold and silver zipper to show the inside lining of a bag.

The contrast in the zip closure underlines and celebrates the opposites that come together in WANT Les Essentiels de la Vie – uptown and downtown, classic and modern, masculine and feminine. “Every aspect of a product is thought through carefully, and it’s definitely design over fashion. Nothing is unnecessary, yet not missing,” Byron continues to tell The Blogazine while showcasing the accessories collection. “Like this one, this one is for you!” he says and picks up a business cards holder, which expands for those moments when you need to carry an extra bunch.

The architecture inspired products of organic cotton and high quality leather are a remedy to fast fashion and a protagonist for sustainability. For Spring/Summer 2013, the exceptional touch of the Italian and French leather has found a friend in a smooth suede, and the colour hues of blue and green call for optimism among the other, more classic tones.

WANT Les Essentials de la Vie is refined luxury evoking emotions of simplicity and class. It is of timeless style presenting design classics for a modern voyageur, which will remain relevant not only today, but surely even more tomorrow.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe

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24/07/2012

Met at Pitti 82: President’s

It was with love for vintage and respect for Italian tailoring and Tuscan manufacturing that President’s was brought back to the market 60 years after it was founded. Guido Biondi, grandson of the founder Francesco Bacci, has given the brand a defined identity, that was presented to The Blogazine during Pitti Uomo 82, along with the raw yet sophisticated men’s collection of the signature high-end quality the brand pays special attention to.

It was in 1957 that Francesco Bacci, originator of the first Italian denim brand, registered the name of President’s. 60 silent years later the grandson Guido Biondi decided to revive the brand and took over at the helm. As both owner and creative director of the family company, Biondi has marked out the identity of the brand and created a menswear line, where grand traditions meet with style. “We have the Hawaiian stuff for summer, but above all it’s the contemporary and sophisticated side of the Made in Italy production and the fine quality we want to highlight. Look at the shirts, and the suits – it’s Loro Piana, Thomas Mason, Japanese cotton… Then all the work is done here,” he continued to explain.

The collection shows well the traditions, craftsmanship and know-how of the Tuscan manufacturing and Italian customs as the core of President’s. Together with fabrics that have been searched from all over the world, this is what forms the base for the brand’s position in the high end of quality. Suits in virgin wool by Loro Piana, cotton shirts by Thomas Mason, triple twisted cotton from Columbia, Japanese indigo dyed jersey and selvedge denim, and so on – the fabrics give a big variation to the collection, while it’s the all crafted in Tuscany statement that makes it all come together to one.

The fitting of the garments is modern and adapted to what will create elegant streetwear with a hint of retro inspiration. The gently thought-through collection with fine stitching is permeated with contemporary sophistication and the Spring/Summer 2013 man of President’s is a man with care for details. Above the Hawaiian prints, soft denim and quality cotton it all lies in the points fines. From real horn buttons, belt loops made using original 1940’s machines, inner safety buttons and hanging loops in leather to the 0.5mm threading and 3mm French stitching. The simple accessories in Tuscan and American vegetable leather were a nice ending touch to the full collection that showed the completeness of the detail range.

The intense attention to details and the slight rawness in the style gives a stand-out edge to President’s, and we can’t but thank Guido Biondi for bringing to life what his grandfather once was dreaming of.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe

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23/07/2012

The Antithesis of Today’s Throwaway Fashion

The fashion apparel industry has drastically changed over the last twenty or so years. By consequence, today’s ‘fast fashion’ industry, with the retail conglomerates in the frontline, has become hugely standardised. This has led to immeasurable bulks of ‘anonymous’ and often poorly made clothes. Rapidly produced fashions without any history or noteworthy source of reference, readily available to be thrown away. As a result, the disdain for these disposable fashions is growing.

By contrast, German men’s wear label Merz b. Schwanen, shrewdly understands how in today’s fashion realm, craftsmanship and expressing authenticity and quality has become imperative in establishing a sense of fashion rigueur.

The Berlin based fashion label, founded by Peter Plotnicki, offers a range of beautifully basic army shirts, singlets, pants and sweaters, all of which are inspired by vintage workmen’s undergarments from the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s. Each piece of clothing is made with care and generated by authentic manufacturing processes, whereby original, historic circular knitting machines are being put into use again. Accordingly, in line with traditional production facilities that were customary in various parts of Germany from the 1920s up to the 1950s, an old way of crafting is revived.

The effect of this bygone technique is an irregular weaving pattern, which leaves the clothes without a side seam, giving each item a refined, singular and authentic look. In result, the knitted ‘vintage feel’ garments made by Merz b. Schwanen hold a surplus value that industrially developed fashions are a-priori deficient in.

Labels as Merz b. Schwanen can be considered a welcoming counterpoise to today’s throwaway McFashions, a term once brilliantly coined by sustainable fashion designer and author, Kate Fletcher. Moreover, the turning away from mass produced, standardized apparel matches a larger cultural trend that is comprised in a returned interest in the decorative and handmade. (See the documentary series Made by Hand that is an active proof of it.)

Additionally, in our increasingly fast paced 24/7-stress society, time has become a true luxury ‘good’. As such, time equals quality (simply put). In view of this, these kinds of labour intensive, carefully crafted ‘slow fashion’ clothes, permeated with historicity, will almost certainly hold a radiantly bright future.