Wearing white in winter doesn’t need to be a challenge. Play around with rich textures and shades of white and with so many wintry hues. We’re sure you’ll find the right style for you. If you don’t feel confident to create a head to toe look, then combine a winter white coat with a colourful or even classic black look.
Styling by Vanessa Cocchiaro
It’s undeniable that clothes have a powerful impact in movies, not only because of their glamorous side, but for the key role they play in a concrete scene or even in an entire story. Jonathan Faiers, fashion theory reader at the Winchester School of Art, at the University of Southampton, decided to go deeper and wrote Dressing Dangerously, a study about the “cinematic negative wardrobe”.
Professor Faiers gives us several examples, starting from the white Dior dress worn by Marlene Dietrich in Alfred Hitchcock’s Stage Fright. The huge blood stain, on the candid and classy pleated skirt, inevitably catches the eye. Faiers continues with an example from The House on Telegraph Hill by Robert Wise. In this film, the stained glove illuminated in the dark is a clear sign of guilt – the image also chosen as the cover of Dressing Dangerously – while in movies such as Leave Her to Heaven, all the costumes bring you to a complex set of emotions.
To step out of historical cult movies, the author also talks about Bridget Jones‘ appearance at the Law Council dinner. Dressed in a long golden robe she is completely out of context, while surrounded by formal dresses and suits – a scene that emphasizes a quite clear shade of shame. Fashion manages to communicate through movies and Dressing Dangerously traces a path from glossy photos to the most dangerous of fashion moments. The book will be released on December 3rd.
Fancy some fashion-branded sweets, a relaxing massage with custom blended essential oils, an aperitivo with a view over Milan or just a pair of slick jeans? For quite some time now fashion brands have been offering a whole lot more than hip clothes. But while brands like Diesel, Acne, Missoni or even Zara have limited their production to homeware, Giorgio Armani has been taking a completely different approach. From the humble beginnings back in the 70s, Mr. Armani has made the phrase “from spoon to city” his own, and has built an exceptionally unique empire.
Giorgio Armani was born in 1934 in Piacenza, Italy and has entered the world of fashion in 1965, initially working for La Rinascente, and later for Cerruti and Sicons. The latter collaboration, which resulted in Armani by Sicons line of clothing, will lead him to create his own brand – Giorgio Armani – in 1975 together with his partner Sergio Galeotti. With a clear vision of what his brand should embody, Giorgio Armani has through the years created a dozen different clothing lines, opened over 250 shops around the world, developed a series of beauty products, perfumes, jewellery, watches, homeware collections, hotels and restaurants.
But while sheer breath of his work might leave us speechless, one must wonder what is the common thread that keeps it all together. What does a luxury spa in the centre of Milan have in common with simple, de-structured jackets that have become Mr. Armani’s statement pieces? The answer is apparently simple. Since the very beginning of his career Giorgio Armani’s products have all been designed with a clear, neat style that hasn’t changed in more than 35 years. His products seem to stand the test of time because they are uniquely timeless and follow a single, pure inspiration: Armani himself.
But whereas this may be true for his clothes, declining the same empowering, classically elegant lifestyle on furniture, interiors, restaurants and hotels might not be as easy to accomplish. In fact, while we appreciate the silent luxury hidden in the impeccable sartorial quality of his clothes, his furniture, lavish homeware or even the extravagantly richness of his Milanese hotel seem to privilege style over substance. Even though fashion and design often speak the same language, the core of each discipline is grounded on a set of completely different rules, making it difficult to successfully hop from one practice to another, even for a grand master of Italian design like Giorgio Armani.
This year, there is no need to look and feel like a snow ball. Layer wisely, go to work feeling confident and don’t let the winter blues take control.
Styling by Vanessa Cocchiaro
President’s is one of the most innovative contemporary Italian brands. In an era of fast culture and even faster fashion, its creative director Guido Biondi has decided to take things slow. Made of essential, but meticulously designed pieces, each President’s collection is an ode to quality Italian manufacture, timeless elegance and bold style. We have sat together with Guido for a pleasant chat, discussing President’s past, present and future.
Could you explain the concept that guides President’s collections? Do you have a ‘recipe’ to follow when you create each collection?
If we were to sum up the silent guidelines we follow for each President’s collection we should say that the inspiration comes mainly from items of the past. What could be understood as timeless pieces is brought together and translated in a unique collection, contaminated by various cultures and styles with a strong contemporary twist. President’s style is raw, authentic and elegant, while it also pays an ode to the supremely Italian sartorial tradition fused together with continuous research of quality fabrics.
Do you feel the weight of Italian fashion heritage? How do you feel President’s fits in this heritage?
President’s brand was first registered in 1957 by my grandfather, but it was never used until three years ago. I have decided to add the “Crafted in Tuscany” phrase to the brand’s name in order to make people understand my passion and dedication to Italian textile tradition, as well as the country’s crafts in general. The reference to tradition and heritage is one of the fundamental qualities of President’s collections, and we continually seek to develop new collaborations with artisans and local manufacturers.
You stress the importance of quality materials. Could you tell us something about the materials you use, how and where are they produced, how and why you choose them for your collections?
When we source new materials, I am always interested in knowing where does the raw material come from. Whether it is cotton, linen or wool, I always try to find out how the yarn is produced, if the farms or plantations are sustainable and top-notch quality. This is the reason why we choose to produce all of our collections in Italy, mainly in Tuscany.
The summer and autumn collections seem very different yet somewhat similar at the same time, where did the inspiration come from for both of them?
The summer and winter collections are brought together by core values of the brand: offering a unique, exceptional product in a contemporary interpretation of classic menswear pieces. The winter collection draws inspiration from the military world, interpreted in a neat, sartorial key. The summer collection, on the other hand, plays with 60s Puerto Rican Americans’ style, interpreted in a lighter tone.
What kind of man do you envision would wear your collections? Do you think that contemporary clients value and know how to recognize the quality manufacture in an era of fast production and consumption of low-cost brands?
A President’s man is a globe-trotter, with a variety of interests from art and culture, to underground movements. He loves and appreciates beauty and quality craftsmanship and chooses our clothes because he knows they will last for a lifetime. I think that our ideal clients understand and appreciate the quality manufacture and precious detailing of our clothes. You cannot notice the handmade quality of our products, especially in a world made of low-cost fashion.
How would you like to see the brand develop in the future?
In the future, I hope to be able to develop products that are even more smart, neat and well-finished. In particular, my biggest aspiration is to open a series of President’s boutiques, developed with a new concept, offering a unique shell for our products. Hopefully the future will bring new challenges and exciting new projects.
Concept stores are nothing new. Ever since the 90’s, we’ve been able to shop limited capsule collections while sipping on a wide array of bottled waters. 10 Corso Como and Colette need no further introductions. These boutiques were founded by influential individuals. However, in the recent years, a slight evolution has been discernible. The smallest brands have gone from merchants to makers.
They not only sell their own products and those of others, they own the whole store. Say hi to the multi brand store. It has become a given platform for young talents to showcase their ideas. Carol Lim and Humberto Leon are partially responsible for this development. In 2002, they founded Opening Ceremony. It started in New York and eleven years later, they’ve spread worldwide. Today, they additionally run their own TV channel and an annual magazine. And of course, their own line of clothing. The idea has spread further up the Northern hemisphere as well. The same year as Opening Ceremony, danish Wood Wood opened up its business. Except for their own pieces and collaborations, they also offer selected items from Carven and scents from Comme des Garçons.
In August, Cheap Monday-founder, Örjan Andersson launched his latest project Från Ö Till A (From Ö to A). Located by the Skanstulls bridge in Stockholm, it features local designers such as Cornelia Webb, altewai.saome and the founders own collection Örjan Andersson. It’s actually an ingenious marketing ploy for peddling one’s goods. Carefully choosing other brands for a store will translate the in-house designer’s own aesthetics. The customers compare and juxtapose the external labels to Anderssons’. The near future will most probably see a multitude of these new conceptual stores flourishing. The most interesting part of this will be to see whether they’ll balance emerging talents with already established ones. Instead of clinging to the conventional luxury segment, this is a golden opportunity to promote a new generation of craftswo/men.
Stay warm this season with our choice of winter accessories. Forget your boring black knits and opt for vibrant colours and rich textures.
Styling by Vanessa Cocchiaro
Would you believe us if we told you that the very first Paul Smith’s shop was 3 squared metres? Recognized as one of the most successful UK designers, he built a career step-by-step, mostly thanks to both his unique fashion taste and the intuitive approach to the retailer role.
Until March 9th 2014, the Design Museum of London will celebrate his work-life with a special exhibition that aims to be a proper journey inside his original mind. Hello my name is Paul will feature a recreation of the first shop in Byard Lane, Nottingham, alongside a digital room displaying moving images, as well as Smith’s personal office, full of inspirational books, souvenirs from all his travels, bikes, and many other objects.
The show has been curated by Donna Loveday, who said she would like it to become more and more popular since: “He’s constantly doing something new and I think that’s why people are still so interested in him”, a valid reason to go and see the exhibit even for the ones who already know Mr. Smith. The creative path will also showcase some film clips and audio regarding special collaborations and fashion shows, together with the best behind-the-scene moments. A special space to the different and architectural shop structures has been given, too.
We have reached that period of the year when we’re bothered by all the extra pieces of clothing we have to put on, in the same time as we’re enjoying that the layers and layers of clothes let us play with our styling creativity. Even though we can feel winter approaching, we are still revelling in the autumn collections: rich colours, heavy accessories and layers playing with light versus hefty fabrics.
Styling by Vanessa Cocchiaro
Let’s have a look back to the early 80s and the New Romantics, also known as the Blitz kids. Originally a pop culture movement in the UK, which emerged from night clubs such as The Blitz and Billy’s and other flamboyant fashion boutiques. The eccentric, eclectic fashion style of this time was centered around the “new wave” music scene. Certain bands and musicians, that epitomized the new romantics movement were Duran Duran, Spandau Ballet, Boy George of Culture Club and David Bowie with his “Ashes to Ashes” hit.
Typical early styling and trends of this movement included frilly fop shirts inspired by the English romantic period, Russian constructivism, clowns and puritans and 1930s cabaret. The New Romantics were a reaction and rejection to punk and the anti-fashion stance, they were a group of young people who wanted to escape the tough economic downturn and find a new way to have fun and create drama and theatre through synthesized pop music and costume.
As with most fashion trends, they come and go and re-emerge in a new way, often only years or decades later. We can see now the re-emergence of the New Romantic style appearing in current fashion trends, made more contemporary by colour and cut, but creating an interesting and more fluid silhouette. So, depending on your style, stepping out of your door Boy George style could be one option or alternatively if you’re less extrovert you could add a frill or draped knot or a pair of peg trousers to your outfit to add the new romantic twist to your day.
