ZZegna / Realnob – Noble Note
Matteo Cherubino directed this gem of a short film for Z Zegna’s A/W 2011 collection. Showcasing several pieces from the “Artisan Alchemy” collection that we quite enjoyed from the sidelines, the short’s narrative follows model Theo Hall from Elite through Zegna’s iconic glass and steel structure on Via Savona. The piece was shot in collaboration with the self-described blog for dandies, Nob, and produced by 2DM.
Tag Christof
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STYLEBY
With a launch party at nothing less than the Royal Palace in Stockholm last week, Sweden’s latest fashion magazine began its grandiose life. But with Elin Kling as Creative director, who could have thought otherwise? In the past six months, Styleby has been the buzzword among everyone who has anything to do with fashion in Scandinavia. In July its website, a sort of live blog with up-to-the-moment insights into the lives of the three women behind the magazine, was launched.
Jonna Berg, Editor-in-chief, is known as the “woman of magazines,” having contributed extensively to a wealth of Swedish publications. Columbine Smille, who began her career as Kling’s assistant, is now Styleby’s Fashion editor. With her exquisite taste and courage to showcase Swedish creativity beyond Acne and Whyred, she is sure to do a bang up job.
Elin Kling, who has worked the gamut of jobs in the industry, started her career as the fashion editor at Vecky Revyn, and has gone from being a blogger to one of the industry’s most influential women. Apart from launching Styleby and the magazine, she designed a successful collection for H&M and has hosted her own TV show, Style by Kling. And if that weren’t already enough, she was invited to Luisa Via Roma’s landmark FIRENZE4EVER party as Sweden’s contribution to the industry.
The first issue of Styleby, with six clones of Elin Klin on the double-page cover, will hit newsstands March 15.
Not coincidentally, Nowmanifest was launched just before Styleby made its debut. Already known as a must-visit fashion destination, Elin Kling and Christian Remröd were (surprise) the founders. It is quite simply an amalgamation of fashion superpowers: alongside Elin’s blog is will be BryanBoy, Rumi Neely and Industrie Magazine. This forward-thinking gathering of eclectic and important fashion personalities on one site will hopefully bring increased attention to Sweden’s burgeoning and pioneering scene.
Emelly Blomqvist – Images courtesy Nowmanifest & Styleby – Special thanks to Elin Kling.
200 Best Illustrators / Naja Conrad-Hansen
It’s official. Naja Conrad-Hansen, one of 2DM’s illustrators, is among the best in the world. For the third time, she was included in 200 Best Illustrators Worldwide from Lürzer’s Archive with her recent work for New York recording artist Katrine Ottesen. The Austrian publishing house well-known for its novel ranking system and its long-running series of “200 Best” specials, is somewhat of an authority on contemporary visual culture. Conrad-Hansen’s work was chosen out of a selection of 6,075 works from 69 countries and is one of only a handful of artists to be featured both this year and last.
And as the nature of the publication would suggest, the work on its pages is all absolutely stunning. From the amazing textural works of Paul Meates and Steve Barrett, to the lo-fi and painterly works of Brad Holland, there is no lack of imagination or inventive technique among today’s illustrators. The Danish-born Conrad-Hansen’s work is marked by its intellectual rigour and wealth of symbolic content, but her sense of formal beauty is a boon to her wealth of work in fashion.
Congratulations, Naja! In any case, we didn’t need Lürzer’s to tell us she was amont the world’s best. Check out more of her work here.
Tag Christof – Images courtesy 2DM, Lürzer’s, Special thanks to Helga TripiD / The Blogazine: Fashion Week Backstage
This week marked the grand web relaunch of Gruppo Editoriale L’Espresso’s D Magazine, one of Italy’s most important lifestyle publications. For the occasion, The Blogazine teamed up with a group of three handpicked photographers, Eva Manticova, Luca Campri and Piotr Niepsuj to take on Milan’s fabled fashion week. In three video galleries – skilfully edited by Daniele Testi – we brought to life an incisive and ambient image of the glitz and the glam and the grit of the week in style all our own.
Catch the videos here: Piotr Niepsuj, Luca Campri and Eva Manticova.
This was not the Sartorialist. It’s fresher. It’s raw. It’s open. This is not BryanBoy. And this isn’t tweeting capricious snap judgments from the sidelines of a show. In fact, we worked entirely in analogue. We were out front, backstage, mingling, parsing the collections… and even up a few freshly sewn skirts. We joined a band of models from pre-show castings to their frenetic sprints from runway to runway. And caught up with roving herds of them at the best parties. We went inside to capture a tapestry of the season’s colours, the vibe, the textures on the catwalks and the mood on the street.
The project was born of a fatigue of superficial, heedless fashion reportage. And in an age where everyone plays photographer – and our visual landscape has become an indiscriminate landfill as a result – we instead sought to curate a precise vision. Ours are young, insider photographers with discerning sensibilities, and their vantage lent them an authentic vision of the week, especially when captured in the infinitely more human texture of film…
With this collaboration, The Blogazine’s creative universe and curatorial voice was brought for the first time to a prominent platform, and new audience at the front lines of fashion journalism.
Luca Campri
What is photography? How do I shoot? What should I take pictures of? But why should I shoot? Should I shoot this? That? Does a photo became memory? Is it a friend? Is it a lover? Should i shoot in black and white? Awesome! Your face shows who you are. I’ll burn every experience onto film. Memory never fades. What if i took a photo of everything I’ve ever experienced? What does it mean to be a photographer? I shoot to know these answers.
Eva Manticova
As a properly educated child, I had to finish my school and do all the possible degrees before ditching my small village to travel around the world as a model at 18. After learning how to pose in front of a camera, I discovered that I preferred to be behind it. My first analog camera came from eBay and it’s been loaded, shooting everything around me since. I’m 26 now.
Piotr Niepsuj
Born in 1984 in Poland and raised in Lodz. He moved to Milan a half-decade ago and has since made it his him. He studied architecture at the Politecnico di Milano, and works currently as photo editor and assistant creative director at PIG Magazine in addition to shooting for them.
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Aroma 30
Aroma 30 is one of the freshest, most candid young designer collections we’ve come across in a while. Founded by Rome native Michela Fasanella, the collection is a synthesis of good old-fashioned Italian aesthetic sensibility, a splash of pan-Europe cosmopolitanism and rigorous fabric research. The designer readily admits to using her own body for prototyping, and to excellent effect: her pieces are comfortable and wearable in addition to being flattering.
An alumnus of l’Accademia di Costume e della Moda and Central Saint Martins, Michela began her career assisting Ferragamo’s creative team. From there she advanced to assisting Maria Grazie Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli at Red Valentino. Her line was launched from London, first with a small and successful capsule collection, but she returned subsequently to Rome to be closer to its production and the roots of her creativity.
In a short conversation with The Blogazine, the designer talked beauty at its core, as well as her distaste for the arbitrary rhythms of fashion: “My style is focused on the research of timeless beauty, as I think it has a much deeper meaning in capturing the evolution of lifestyles. I can’t stand the fast pace of fashion trends, and I prefer working on the development of an image.”
Inspiration for the Aroma30 is drawn from fountains as diverse as religious iconography (the designer is Roman, afterall), classical geometry, snapshot photography and nature’s perfect equilibriums. This last point, apparently, is key, as Michela alluded to us nature’s mastery at eliminating the superfluous – through evolution, through erosion, through chemical processes -to ensure that everything which remains is functional. And while volumes and silhouettes are liberally manipulated, Aroma’s lines almost speak Scandinavian simplicity in their elegance, as well as Belgian sophistication in their complex tailoring. The designs also wear a strong Valentino influence on their sleeves, so to speak…
2DM’s Roberta Ridolfi, a friend of Michela’s and longtime Londoner, shot the label’s last collection in the stark softness of white – Ridolfi’s playful sensibility a perfect match for Michela’s creations. Aroma30’s current collection, measurably harder and darker, is inspired by the piercing light of the Nordic countries and the low-contrast, intricate beauty of Paolo Roversi’s photographs.
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Andrea Crews & The Living Dead A/W 2011
In the Parisian outskirts, far away from the chi chi-neighborhoods and the established runways, Andrea Crews – The Parisian art, activism and fashion collective lead by Maroussia Rebecq – has seized power over the concert venue and salle de spectacle Le Trianon, built in 1894 in Paris’ XVIIIème arrondissement. The contrast between this renowned historical building and the strong enfant terrible-spirit of Andrea Crews’ label was striking. And during a windy Fashion Week evening, the fall & winter collection – “Les Morts Vivants de La Mode” – was presented.
To the stage, a runway had been added, and in the first few minutes a series of red-shaded gothic creations is presented, worn by Vampire-like blood teared vamps, in the finest Bela Lugosi-spirit possible. But then, something else happens… A mob dressed in black jumps up on the stage, the music accelerates and great white banners are draped down from the top balconies in the theatre hall – banners that are sprayed with black letters reading out “Andrea Crews”. The anarchistic mob runs out on the runway, lifts up one of the models and puts her in a dustbin bag. The red curtains, which were previously closed are opened, and uncover a fiery hell landscape where the dark rabble has come to burn the models at the stake.
The show began with well tailored evening gowns, down jackets and blazers in scarlet red, and a craftsmanship-theme kept on reappearing in the show, followed in short order by chunky nits and the Andrea Crews trademark: Haute Insanity accessories in the forms of shoes stacked upon one another, and knitted hats with fluorescent details. The show finishes off with a model dressed in a revealing turquoise on-ne-sait-quoi piece, swinging two heads in front of the audience. Knitted heads of course.
We are not in Salem, nor in the 16th century. The current location is Paris. It’s 2011AD. But the angry mob is very much present, and have never been more dark or furious. It’s the Andrea Crews witch trials.
The interesting thing about Andrea Crews is not always the collection itself, but rather its presentation. There’s no doubt that underneath the Insane Asylum-styling, every piece that is strutted down the runway has an avant garde-touch to it but is nonetheless very wearable. And like a high number of brands, A.C would have no problem resting on these laurels. But they instead choose to incorporate other Classy Uglification-elements into it, such as neon coloured details. And on top of that, since this was a veritable theatre performance, the hall was filled to the brim with smoke. It may have been something that would make most photographers weep – and it may not show the collection in its best light – but A.C simply says…“Catch Me If You Can.”
The collection is filled with pieces like knitted cardigans and a draped black dress, but the difference with A.C is that their draped dress will have you perform the final number of out Swan lake. You’re not wearing a garment; you’re wearing conceptual performance art. You’re a small part of a movement. Much like with other contemporary artists such as the musician Björk, you might never quite grasp the full meaning of what’s going on, and that’s part of the charm. A.C is all about personal creativity, bold experimentation and full frontal independence. Find your inner Andrea, and run with her!
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Tung Walsh does Jeff Koons
Say what you will about his balloon animals and endless kitsch. Call him finished, uninspired and a hack. Jeff Koons, household name and former Wall Streeter, is the only contemporary artist many people have ever heard of. And while he may be very bad news for art itself (some even arguing that his work marks the end of art), he’s certainly good news for the art market, fattening its bottom line gratuitously and drawing in both collectors and audiences who might otherwise ignore art altogether.
Truth be told, he is an innovator and has had his share of breakthroughs as an artist. One would be hard pressed to deny the visual and cultural impact of his work. In a way – and this is not to deride the very dynamic American art scene – he’s very much become today’s quintessential American artist: big, self-aggrandizing and shamelessly commercial. And pretty much a force unto himself.
For the spring/summer issue of POP, 2DM’s freshest photographer Tung Walsh captured a very chipper Koons in all his big, self-aggrandising, and shamelessly commercial glory (spot the hidden Duchamp reference!). In his trademark suit, he looks rather like he’s just robbed Tommy Hilfiger’s closet. Interviewed by an always incisive POP for the shoot, Koons muses on about his infamous Popeye work (which you can catch later this year at London’s Serpentine Gallery), fame as an artist and post-divorce destruction.
Tung also shot the opulent “An Italian Apartment” for the issue, and there’s even a spread by his former mentor Juergen Teller.
Tag Christof.
2° Atto / Opus Creative
And the curtain rises on Opus Creative’s second act, launching today with boutique purveyors of fine and customisable cashmere, Neroli Cashmere.
Together with exceptional, young, artisanal brands, The Blogazine crafts high-quality, bespoke collaborations to creatively amplify and tailor their distinctive messages and brand qualities. For this edition, we called on the ethereal, atmospheric intuition of 2DM‘s Karin Kellner to bring the aura of Neroli Cashmere to life.
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Guest Interview n°22: Karlie Gartner
Desired, evocative, esteemed, and no two are alike. Organic creations merging past and present to tell an individualistic tale and yet simultaneously continuing anew for the one who wears a jeweled piece made by Karlie Gartner. The beauty of these one of a kind jewels, is that they originate from another time and place and find their way to Karlie, are deconstructed, and made to order as her eye and creative hands see fit. Extravagant and bespoke melodies to be adorned, each with its own special story to tell, and upon first sight, it’s love. We crave what no one else has, and Karlie gives this special gift. These are transformation pieces, and they all carry the whimsical, the royal, and a never-ending dream… which is in fact the key in fashion that is so intensely sought out. We caught up with Karlie to get into the details of what makes these hand-made historical jeweled pieces so delightfully inviting to the eyes.
What inspired you to begin jewelry design?
I love fashion accessories and have always dreamt of converting my vision into an accessories empire. Growing up I taught myself how to make my own jewellery, so I could improvise and replicate the amazing pieces I longed to own without the funds to finance my caviar tastes. I figured jewellery was the perfect place to start as it’s something that I innately understand and appreciate.
Your pieces are extraordinary…each with its own special identity. What is the ‘behind the scenes’ process that each undergoes?
The process of designing varies greatly from piece to piece, but once I’ve come up with a specific design, I set to work on deconstructing the original components by removing pins and backings etc. and reworking them together into a new design. This too can be completely different for each piece, weather it requires re-stringing, drilling, sewing, hand wiring, beading or cold connecting.. I sort of consider each piece on an individual basis and work it out as I go along.
How long does each piece take to create? What is your feeling once you have completed a piece?
Each piece depends completely on the design.. and of course the time it takes to source all of the components. Generally the more intricate the design, the more time it takes to create, owing to the fact that it’s all assembled and wired by hand. Of course it is for this reason that the feeling of completing a piece is tremendous. Seeing your vision come to life is so satisfying in itself, and that feeling is compounded by people who appreciate your work.
Not one piece is identical. Is this something that was intentional from the beginning? Which do you prefer – the mass production of pieces? Or keeping them as individuals, one of a kind?
It’s actually not something that was intentional from the beginning, but as I became more and more interested and inspired by vintage jewellery and designs, it very quickly became apparent that I wanted to maintain the integrity of the components I was collecting, and that has become very important to the theme of my collection -that they should remain one-of-a-kind pieces.
I believe that the fashion world is heading more and more in this direction. With high street stores competing so fiercely to churn out the latest trends and catwalk looks on mass, I think people are beginning to explore other avenues to express themselves through fashion, and are willing to pay that little bit extra in an effort to break the cookie cutter mould and wear something that celebrates individuality and an appreciation for traditional craftsmanship.
How long have you been collecting pieces? Where do you go to add to the massive collection – will you share your special vintage spots?
I have been collecting really since I was a young girl. I would trawl through my grandmother’s jewellery box and play with her vanity set and powder compact on weekly visits. I think my hardcore addiction kicked in, however, when I started travelling. Moving to the UK, I discovered London to be a vintage playground which is what ultimately inspired my current collection. I visit markets on a weekly basis.. Some of my favorites include Spitalfields, Camden Passage, and Portobello Road (when I can face the crowds!)
Who do you create these pieces for?
I create for women who appreciate fashion but like to set themselves apart from the crowd. For women who celebrate individuality, sentiment and nostalgia.
Your primary focus is accessories – do you plan to extend the Karlie Gartner label? In which direction do you feel would be additionally beneficial to the existing collection?
I would love to expand the label into a full range of accessories! I think 2nd to jewellery is my love of handbags.. I would like to design a handbag range next. I’m currently working on hair pieces under the existing theme of restyled vintage, and I plan on developing that into a full bridal and fascinator collection. Watch this space!
These statement pieces are representations of you. Can you describe what they mean?
I believe that accessorizing is the easiest way to transform a person from the mundane to the spectacular. For me, my pieces project an image of whimsy and fantasy.. Something to transport you into a fairytale world. They represent my vision of a fairytale world and my way of linking the past with the present.
In what city is your heart? Where do you find yourself most creative in flow and inspiration?
My heart will always belong to my hometown -Melbourne. My favorite city though is definitely New York! Its got such a cool vibe and has so much to offer in terms of inspiration. I would love to live there one day!
Do little moments and experiences in your life influence the designs of the pieces?
Definitely! I pick up inspiration from all over the place. I think I’m having a ‘Black Swan’ moment right now.. Im getting very into dark and moody pieces and black Victorian lace.
Who are your favorite accessories designers? Dream collaborations?
My favorite Vintage jewellery designer is Miriam Haskell because her pieces are like works of art – so incredibly intricate and beautiful! Contemporary designers I love are Tom Binns and Michelle Jank because they create statement accessories that are bold and unique.
I would love to one day collaborate with Sass and Bide…
Which direction do you think the future of jewelry design is moving in?
Jewellery design is becoming increasingly experimental and conceptual which is very exciting. Contemporary designers are pushing the boundaries in terms of materials that constitute foundations for jewellery and accessories. I once read an article about a designer who used human bone tissue to create a ring, coining it ‘bio-bling’. I love that!
What do you want your clients to know when they wear your pieces? What should they take away with them?
That when they wear a piece from the Karlie Gartner collection, they are not only wearing a hand worked, one-of-a-kind accessory, but also a piece of history, reviving and re-loving treasures from years gone by.
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Stockholm Fashion Week
Most recently the fashion spotlight was set on northern latitudes, all the way up to Sweden’s capital city, for the Stockholm Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.
In fashion, the Swedes are known for their less-is-more lines lines combined with grand focus of on function and wearability. First out, opening the week was Filippa-K, who has shown to stick to these principles most rigorously through the years. With shooting star models like Frida Gustavsson working the runway, Filippa K’s new collection had us all longing for the autumn season. Can we just skip summer?
Throughout the week though, we were exposed to some pleasing surprises with Whyred showing more colours than the Swedish runways have seen in seasons and up and coming talents shaking things up with a touch of animal kingdom influence. Though the smooth Scandinavian designs are highly appreciated, we can’t help but love stepping out of our comfort zone every so often. In addition, the styling of the Whyred runway is probably the best ever seen at Stockholm Fashion Week, topped off with well appreciated Alexander McQueen inspired hairdos!
Among other highlights were Tiger Of Sweden, with an extremely strong collection (especially the menswear), upbeat music and a nice dose of adrenaline. Rodebjer’s collection was also excellent, with colourful… Newcomer altewai.saome was cutting edge, and is a hard act to follow for new talents. Annsofie Back’s invitation was also way cool – less is more in action! However, Cheap Monday let us down a bit with a weak collection and ho-hum show.
