20/07/2011

Northern Women in Chanel

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Northern Women in Chanel

“From Femme Parisienne to Swedish Dalkulla”

The Swedish stylist Ingela Klementz-Farago and her husband, the Hungarian-born photographer Peter Farago is the couple behind the epic project Northern Women In Chanel.

The couple has since 2010 lead a unique collaboration with Chanel. The result is an exhibition, which was inaugurated in early July at the photographic museum Fotografiska in Stockholm, and a massive pavé coffee table book. The photo series features 45 internationally known models of Scandinavian and Baltic descent, and about 500 couture pieces from Chanel, and will during the fall and winter travel through Europe.

The project is one of a kind in more than one way. First off, the usual puppet master Uncle Karl is not in leading position. And the usual contemporary Northern beauty has been placed in a greater historical perspective, and invites the viewer for a journey through time, with many easily discernible Scandinavian cultural phenomena.

In one photo, the surrealistic innocence and beauty of Linnea Regnander and her fellow elven-like colleague is portrayed as noble women in a middle age church-environment. Whether they were in collusion with King Gustav Vasa, or simply belonged to the court, the history does not convey. In the black and white photo, featuring a giant cross, Vicky Andrén steps in to the World of Ingmar Bergman and vintage Swedish melancholia, and becomes a still frame from the director’s chef-d’oeuvre ”The 7th Seal”. An intriguing dark scenery which one rarely associates with Chanel.

That’s the true genius of this project. To bag, borrow and steal something so connected with the French national spirit and heritage, and put it into such a different context. The terms cultural exchange comes to mind. From Femme Parisienne to Swedish Dalkulla.

However, such strong historical aspects also requires a lot from the mannequins fronting the project. Except for the 42-year-old Helena Christensen, the greater lot of the models are fresh from the Runway Foetus Factory, and there is simply something about classic Chanel couture, to which a 17-year old blushing beauty cannot always do justice.

Indeed, some pieces demands the Garboesque stern superiority of Kristen McMenamy. And where is the majestic poise exuded by Ingmari Lamy when you need it the most?


Something that is easily forgotten when talking Chanel, and something that in many ways has been buried in time is that, if you are to believe Axel Madsen, author of Chanel; A Woman of her Own, the Madame herself was a lot more than cute cupcakes from Ladurée. Coco Chanel was the raging riotgrrrl of couture, decades before Kat Bjelland got her first guitar.

So, when working with this very brand, it’s crucial to always add a hint of corsage-crushing avant-garde edge, to the timeless elegance and class that is Chanel. Where many others fail (read fashion magazine’s editorials), and simply end up cooking beautiful, slightly mediocre Chanel soup, the Faragos turn out to have many bright fashion photography moments worthy of Madame Coco herself.

Petsy Von Kohler – Images courtesy Chanel

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19/07/2011

Fashion Illustration/Naja Conrad Hansen

Fashion Illustration/Naja Conrad Hansen

Artist, designer and fashion illustrator, 2DM’s Naja Conrad Hansen has been quite the busy bee as of late. Not only was she recently included among the 200 Best illustrators In The World for the third consecutive year by Lürzer’s Archive, Naja’s work has been making waves in commercial and editorial circles the world over for quite some time now. Her uniquely seductive, yet approachable style is steadily making her one of the most sought after illustrators in fashion. And if the growth in her her body of work over the last two months is any indication of her future trajectory, this could not ring any truer…


Recently Indonesian shoe brand EverBest sought some of the artist’s charm for the design of their latest store lunch in Jakarta. Pure, beautiful and spunky as ever, Naja’s art brings this new store in Gandharis City to life. But probably the biggest feather in her cap is the recent illustration she created for Spin magazine. The latest Lady Gaga issue the go-to music magazine released on the iPad features a one of a kind Naja Conrad illustration of the starlet.

From pokerfaced pop powerhouses to absolute darkness, Naja’s art seems to cover it all. Under the tagline “Is It Dark Yet?” Naja is also exploring the haunting depths of the colour black for a collectable poster. The funky poster is now on sale at artypeople.se, the hot Swedish arts portal.


And to top it off, attendees at London Fashion Week got a special slice of the artist as her designs were featured on goodie bags from designer Aza Zanditon and Six Magazine. Now out with her own t-shirt line Meannorth, the artist has sealed the deal, making her one powerhouse of multifaceted creativity.

We’re big fans, Naja. Now, what’s next?

Daniel Franklin 

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15/07/2011

TANK/All New

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TANK/All New

When we saw the amazing work from 2DM`s Bruna Kazinoti 
and Pandora Lennard - Tribe – we couldn`t help dedicating an article to the editorial last week. As an extension of the editorial, we must cite that the Tank team has changed a lot recently. New Art Director Micheal Donkin (coming from British Vogue) brings a breath of fresh air to the magazine. With a host of new talents, pleasant editorials like Croatia based talent Bruna and newly assigned Tank`s Fashion Director Pandora`s `Tribe`may be a more common future.


Since the magazine was first published in 1998, TANK has devoted itself to original and creative interpretations. For this deed, not only collaborating with considerable writers, artists, photographers, stylists and illustrators who all standout, but also with contributors who are independent thinkers which enrich TANK`s identity. The more TANK team discovers new approaches and such new names, the more they will capture the emerging talents.

Before the new art direction, TANK was a largely fashion oriented magazine that was a representation of a typically 90`s style and approach. It seems like Micheal Donkin felt the necessity to close the time gap, making it sophisticated though more reachable, which has turned out to be useful, new way magazine. Keeping the origins, new style in fashion magazine that has a considerable story behind.


Not only uniting the forces with new photographers has created timelessness, but also by the alternative art direction – just to mention the attention paid to fonts and the quality of the paper which is semi-matte – the magazine in general is helping the readers experience an evocative change.


We are curious about what is coming next in TANK who has given the signals that they are going to continue seeking out the most interesting names and subjects, always ELITISM FOR ALL.

Isil Gun 

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07/07/2011

Bruna Kazinoti – “Tribes” / Tank

Bruna Kazinoti – “Tribes” / Tank

“Now, here’s the sum total: One gang could run this city! One gang. Nothing would move without us allowing it to happen. We could tax the crime syndicates, the police, because WE’VE got the streets, suckers! Can you dig it?”

Those memorable lines of the 1979 American cult movie “The Warrior” have echoed through the past thirty years. The story of the chase and fight between the gangs on New York has inspired the stand out editorial “Tribe” in the brand new issue of Tank.


The editorial is not only inspired by the cult movie but also carries strong elements of the iconic Comme des Garçons campaigns from the 90`s and Yohji Yamamoto‘s minimalism. Put it all together and you’ve got “Tribe” which is a gorgeous story flow giving the hints of youth culture.

The editorial was shot, appropriately enough, in an East London warehouse, by photographer Bruna Kazinoti and styled by Pandora Lennard. As warriors work behind the scenes – gang members were named after historical people in line with their characters – the casting was very much in tune with the story. There is a strong statement, character and reality among the models rather than just poses – Bruna strong imagery brings it out. The young models, who together look like a band are Eloise who is daughter of Cissy Chong (Creative Director of Cutler & Gross), then there is photographer David Bailey’s son Sascha and The Clash’s Paul Simonon’s son Louis. When the heritage of cult names come together with Bruna’s sense of character and Pandora’s amazing styling, we get a visual narrative flow of subculture and youth.



Isil Gun – Images courtesy Tank & 2DM – Special Thanks to Pandora Lennard 

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05/07/2011

Hello, Carolina Melis!

Hello, Carolina Melis!

Dancer, illustrator, animator and most recently film maker, the latest talent to join the 2DM family sure has her fingers in many pies. Having worked for labels such as Hermes and Prada Carolina Melis is ridding one high wave. A wave she dose´nt seem to be getting off any time soon. With a recently released film “Le fiamme di Nule” and a wide array of animated works for the BBC this multitalented Sardinian native leaves us gasping for more.

Hands | NSPCC | Saatchi&Saatchi | Nexus Productions from Carolina Melis on Vimeo.

Based out of London, Carolina´s art has a distinct warm style that makes one go all warm and gooey on the inside. Featuring elements of and nature and dance like repetition her art has a mesmerizing, melodic almost poetic drama to it. Her warmth and cheers scorches through her work and we gladly share her cheers welcoming her to the fold.

You come from a dance background, how did you make the transition into art direction illustration and animator. Tell us about your beginnings in the field? 
I moved to the UK to study choreography, but I never wanted to become a dancer, I was mainly interested in composition and directing rather than the technique. I studied at the Dartington College of Arts – a place that in the past had hosted some great artists such as composer Stravinsky, dance-theatre funder Kurt Jooss and sculptor Henry Moore to mention a few. There I started to think about choreography beyond the physical dance performance, creating animations and illustrations which I saw almost as dances on screen and paper.

Later this became my main field. I moved to London and graduated at Central Saint Martins where I specialised in illustration, art direction and animation. At the moment my work is much more commercial and mainstream than my early stuff, yet weather on paper, on stage or on screen I still think about my compositions as potential dance scores.

Your art has an almost poetic, melodic feel. How much does dance influence your art?
I’m a dance fanatic. Living in London I have the privilege to see great shows all the time and attend classes with the best professionals. I get hugely inspired by this. In my work I use lots of repetitions and variations and in my animations I rarely use cuts. I think that comes from dance, I see movements and images evolving and transforming all the time, a constant flow. I also have a great passion for nature and I exploit motives such as flowers, insects, animals, yet I consider my work to be more dramatic than romantic. 

What is your creative process like? How does a beautiful Carolina Melis piece go from concept to reality?
YI often start from a simple motif: a combination of colours, a shape, a song, a story. I am a firm believer in the creative process, meaning that ideas generate ideas. It is very difficult to plan a final piece before even starting on it. My best work is often unplanned, I start with a simple element and then develop it until it becomes a piece of work – an animation an illustration or whatever fits right. Commercially it’s a different process..

What is the most personal project you’ve done so far?
It would probably be the video I did ¨Coleen on Leaf¨. It was my first video and I was questioning my taste and approach to art a lot at that point. I was listening to a lot of electronic music at that time, and for the first time I had to give that kind of music a visual. I spent ages on it, a very ambitious project as it’s full of tiny dots that move individually.  It’s had been a while since I did it but it´s still is one of my favourite pieces.

What is your relationship with fashion? How would you describe your style and how much does your art influence it?
My style is quite simple and feminine. I wear mainly black and pastel colours, which are also my favorite combinations in work.
I often collaborate with fashion labels. At the moment I’m directing an animated piece for Prada in collaboration with AnOther Magazine. It’s for a new fragrance they are about to launch…it´s a fantastic project as it’s about dance, unfortunately I can’t say any more as it’s not out yet. 
I also have an ongoing collaboration with french fashion label Sessun. For them I create original window art pieces for their 5 stores in France. Every piece is inspired by the collection of the moment and it’s entirely crafted. The first one I did was an installation of hundreds of butterflies all made of found little elements, such as beds, feathers, small pieces of wood. Beside these jobs I’ve also done quite a few editorials for fashion magazines, designed textiles etc.

You’ve worked with some big labels in the past. What do you think is the label that most shares your aesthetic? 
I am in love Balenciaga, it’s quirky, feminine yet super modern. Prada is always great, I always like their concepts and moods. I also really like the colours and textiles in Kenzo, I like what Antonio Marras is doing for the label and I feel very close to it it terms of style. 

You have your roots in Sardinia, and and now live in the UK. Do you think the Mediterranean flavor is imbedded in your art? How much is British and how much is simply Carolina coming through? 
The British have the great ability in mixing styles, combining vintage with the new, borrowing traditions from other cultures etc.. I love being in the UK as it is creatively a very daring country yet at times I get frustrated that everything is so ephemeral, fashion and trends here appear and disappear very quickly. For this reasons I often like to refer to my stronger italian roots, the traditional motives and and the more classic devices.

 You have a strong footing in many spheres: illustration, art direction, animation and dance. I get the feeling that you are always working on a ton of projects at once. How do you manage your time and which one is your first love?
Unfortunately that’s really true, I always work on far too many projects and at a time and it can become very complicated, but I have a number of very precious helpers that support me in most things I do. I love the balance of the the different projects and I think that’s what keeps me alive.
I see myself as a bit like a ‘concept store’, I use very different mediums but the philosophy behind it all is always coherent. Also I see many artist that concentrate on a very niche genre and after a while they struggle to stay relevant.  

9. Are there any illustrators/animators, past or present, whose work you really admire? 
I really like the art of Paolo Ventura, particularly the series ‘Winter Sories’ and the illustrations of Olaf Hajek.
In terms of animation, Fantasia has been the most influential piece for me. I still believe that Deems Taylor’s introduction in Fantasia is the best way to explain the relationship between music and image. Further to this I think that Oskar Fischinger animation in the film’s first segment, the Toccata and Fugue, is still so incredibly contemporary, something I wouldn’t be surprised to see as a back projection in a trendy summer festival like Sonar.

Tell us about your work for “Le fiamme di Nule.” Is there a bigger film making role in your future?   
‘Le fiamme di Nule’ is a short film combining live action and animation. After a visit to the village Nule in Sardinia I got very fascinated by their traditional ways of making textiles and I decided to write a story inspired by that place and their designs. There was something quite cinematographic in that scenario, an atmosphere that you rarely find in London. It’s a story of three weavers from taking part in a tapestry competition, the competition really happen but I told it with a very personal way. I wanted to portrait the context of a rural village with a stylish and nostalgic approach, so there is a strong sense of art direction and design in the film. 

Since the film I got commissioned to design some tapestries myself by the, the rugs where made but the artisans from Nule, it feel amazing.. I almost feel like I’m becoming part of my own film!

I would love to make a feature or a series, it has been in my mind for years. Last year I started working on some long formats with Warp X, everything is still in progress and to be honest I’m not rushing it.

Internet Warrior | Oh No Ono | Leaf from Carolina Melis on Vimeo.

Interview and Introduction – Daniel Franklin /  

 

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28/06/2011

Sportswear International / Jolijn Snijders

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Sportswear International / Jolijn Snijders

2DM’s Jolijn Snijders did an editorial for the latest issue of Sportswear International, the compass of the ever evolving world of sportswear. Aptly named “The New Vintage” the twelve page spread codifies the new-old influences in active wear. In this ever changing world of fashion where things need to be new to be hip, the need to look back in time for inspiration is inevitable. With fresh faces Sylvester at FM, Simon at Major and Irma at Why Not bring the edgy editorial to life the nuovo/retro influences in sportswear could not be more emphasized. If looking back is a step forward then sportswear seems to be making 360’s to keep us charmed.


Labels, quick to cash in on the sportswear phenomenon have been churning out active wear like newspapers at a printing press. The industry has grown in colossal measure over the last two decades. Though, who’s to say this is such a bad thing… In today’s style market, its safe to assume there is a market for all good things, and if common sight on the streets are anything to go by, sportswear is one ginormous market. Sportswear hitting the street has grown beyond chavs and pimps, as a quick browse on The Sartorialist or a stroll in Milan during fashion week will confirm. A trainer under a flowing dress is actually quite hip. Yet at the same time youngsters in their baggy tracksuits and jumbo sneakers are also a by product of this fad, but then again isn’t fashion all about the hits and misses?


Fashion includes Burberry, Fred Perry, Meatpacking D, Levi’s, Diesel, Paul Van Hagen, FILA, Jucca and others.

Killer job, Jolijn!

Daniel Franklin

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27/06/2011

The Editorial: Fashion Kids

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The Editorial: Fashion Kids

Fashion is a canvas for wild experimentation. It is the single most tangible cultural lever by which we move forward in our relationship to the world. And in relation to ourselves and one another. Fashion is a harbinger of change, a powerful barometer of society’s mood, and a temporal definition of taste. Despite its seasonal direction changes, fashion opens the world progressively, and in a remarkably structured way. Compare the brilliant men’s collections we saw in Paris and Milan this season to the uniforms of the Mad Men era, or even Wall Street’s extroverted reign over the 1980s, and it becomes clear how drastically men’s role in society has evolved. Everyone’s role in society has evolved drastically. But, kids?

It goes without saying that fashion exists to break rules. We need fashion to fill that function. But as product design, architecture and other related worlds have progressed from styling-for-profit-driving to bastions of good ethics, fashion has stayed behind in several places it should be well ahead of the curve. Sweatshop labour abounds even today, fast fashion is raising serious issues of waste, and even the most prestigious labels can be less than forthcoming about their production practices. These are all, of course functions of the fierce competition brought on by globalisation.

But in terms of fashion as a cultural force, the role of children has become a tenuous one. Not kids in sweatshops (although they are certainly a far more serious problem), but the junior fashionistas and talented young personalities who are capitalised upon by fashion for their recognizability and youth. The awkward and bespectacled mini-savant Tavi is, of course, the epitome. A few years after her she gained notoriety through her very well-written blog (she’s now 15 years old), she has become a full-fledged force unto herself (her “press” person once brusquely blew me off). And much to the chagrin of several of her (much) older colleagues, she has been snapped up by the industry as a sage and muse. But, did she ever have a childhood? She certainly didn’t have a long one. But her age creates buzz. She sells magazines. She’s good business.

Prada has just made Hailee Steinfeld the new face of Miu Miu, and instantly at 14, she’s to become a full-fledged icon of her time. Now, exploited is certainly too harsh a word: these kids are anything but mistreated. They’re swathed in lavish outfits and marched around like the mini superstars they are. But the whole song and dance seems suspiciously like a highly calculated ploy in which marketers (and not designers) are grasping at anything out-of-the-ordinary for leverage in their brand-building wars. It’s like, “Flat, curvy, ethnic, strange, plain, ugly and extreme have all been done. So… um… how about kids?”

The problem is, using a kid as a marketing tool is slippery slope. Parents react strongly. And marketing tools, by nature, are designed to compel certain behaviours. Namely, consumption, adoration, reverence. What happens to the kids’ peers and their distorted worldview? Entirely separate from the wrongheaded Puritan diatribes about skinny models driving eating disorders and body image problems (that’s like saying advertising delicious food causes obesity, shitheads), throwing a kid into a mix changes the playing field. Tavi’s smart. Hailee’s a brilliant actress. Both are prodigies. But a prodigy in music or mathematics and a prodigy as marketing tool are drastically different. And precisely because fashion is a manifestation of our deep social and cultural conscious, maybe we should think a bit harder about what our new obsession means.

Maybe it’s just an uncomfortable inversion of the system. Maybe the beauty of youth is just too beautiful to ignore. Maybe we’re opening doors for new forms of expressions in fashion. But even in fashion, where most things should never be off-limits, there should be some room for the sacred. Maybe we should just let the kids be kids.

Tag Christof – Images courtesy Pop, Love and Miu Miu

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23/06/2011

The Adam & Eve Projects

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The Adam & Eve Projects

The Adam & Eve Projects takes the hazy idea of the “creative collective” to fantastic new heights. At once a sort of borderless community for our generation’s most influential creatives and a display case for their work and ideas, the initiative includes “the most exciting and important shapers and definers of our cultural landscape” In the collaborative spirit of Wonder-Room, the project draws on particularly relevant talents to produce a body of projects, and in the process becomes a fantastic cross-section of the creative landscape as a whole. It’s like a 21st century salon, with big ideas and lots of rule-breaking. Except cooler.

No medium is off limits, and contributors span the entire creative spectrum, from musicians to architects, to filmmakers, artists, fashion and industrial designers, and illustrators. Both individuals and organisations take part. New talents join regularly as the project’s influence grows, and the discourse and scope only makes it more interesting. In some cases the work created is even for sale (especially from the fashion designers), and the site is also a great place to score some seriously distinctive bespoke fashion.



Three of 2DM’s photographers are actively participating in the project. Skye Parrott, well known for her emotional snapshot photography, has contributed quite a bit (see her stream here), and her magazine Dossier Journal also contributes regularly. Roger Deckker, in his project billed West End Artisans, shot badass Jesse Hughes from The Eagles of Death Metal in grainy, tactile film. Roberta Ridolfi is also slated to contribute, and after her recent and fruitful stay over in New York she certainly has something good in the works. Other photographer participants in the project include our recent acquaintance, the very talented Kuba Dabrowski, as well as Ari Marcopolous, Nick Night, Cass Bird, and others.


Beyond photography, other contributors include lovely British design duo Jamesplumb, who we met at Spazio Rossana Orlandi for their solo exhibition there late last year, architect extraordinaire Bjarke Ingels, designer Sarah Applebaum, A.P.C. creator Jean Toitou, and way too many others to mention.

We’ll be watching closely!

Tag Christof – Images Skye Parrott & Roger Deckker courtesy Adam & Even – Special thanks to Scott Woods

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21/06/2011

Under Current 5 / Biblical

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Under Current 5 / Biblical

From an undercurrent of Biblical proportions comes the latest issue of Under Current.

This fifth issue pays tribute in its own, unorthodox way to the victims of the recent disasters in Japan. Billed “Biblical,” it muses on themes ranging from Genesis to biblical mysticism. It is perhaps the most beautiful, and certainly the most impacting work from Under Current so far – it comes as close as possible to being an emotional experience. Haunting, evocative and complete, we cited it in our editorial yesterday as being among the current magazines that, like good albums, manage better than any to distill a mood and a moment into a bound, timeless volume.


In addition to its excellent, somewhat minimal art direction (with a particularly gorgeous selection of fonts) from Daren Ellis & Josh Hights, photo editor Daniel Sannwald chose a sweeping selection of images from the likes of Mel Bles, Mark Borthwick, Ronald Stoops and others. Taken together, they paint a picture Biblical picture of solitude, conflict, and emotion. Artist contributions include the fantastical collage work of Hans Weigand and the very of-the-times sculpture work of Nick Kosmos and Daniel Keller. Other contributors include Vivienne Westwood), filmmaker Bruce LaBruce, sculptor Josh Baum, gallerist Maureen Paley, and filmmaker Ruth Hogben (of Gareth Pugh fame).

Despite its seemingly tired theme, the issue manages to come across subtly and powerfully. We’re eager to see whats next from them.

Daniel Franklin & Tag Christof

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20/06/2011

Pop On Bags x Aleandro Roncarà

Pop On Bags x Aleandro Roncarà

Pop art is in a new prime. It takes pop, turns it on its head and breathes new personality into familiar symbols. And now, more brightly and brashly than ever, pop art has become a force in fashion. And right on-trend, Italian brand Pop On has teamed up with pop artist Aleandro Roncarà for a sprightly new line of luxury handbags.

For the occasion of Pitti last week, Raspini hosted an exhibition event of the brand in their Via Roma shop in Florence. With the line’s latest treasures on display, and the added the treat of a live performance by the artist, the event was a smashing success and a welcome injection of colour into the week’s festivities.

The line includes traditional handbags, with playful names like Brando, Lupo and Funny, and more spacious and businesslike bags with more manly names like Tokio, Charlie and Alex. They also have a small line of accessories, such as belts, scarves and keychains, which compliments the bags nicely.


Roncarà’s art channels Keith Haring but is more fantastical. More whimsical. And with the high-quality Made in Italy construction and luxury materials of Pop On’s bags, this collaboration might just make pop art history.

From the Bureau – Photos by Giulia Donnini 

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