Fashion | The Blogazine - Contemporary Lifestyle Magazine

15/10/2013

Lee Miller in Fashion | The Book

Most of the people probably have heard about Lee Miller as a beautiful woman, muse and lover of Man Ray, a photographer and surrealist artist herself. But Miss Miller was more than that. By taking pictures she documented several critical phases of the World War II, and she made memorable fashion editorials, too. Her career started when she was very young, discovered by Condé Montrose Nast himself, who wanted her to be a model for Condé Nast. She lived in Jazz Age New York, in a creative and stimulating environment, which certainly contributed to her turning into a fashion photographer. By living between New York, London and Paris, Lee Miller was a free spirit, and she used to go around with Pablo Picasso, Paul Éluard and Jean Cocteau, just to name a few.

Even though she was recognized as “one of the most distinguished living photographers”, a great many of her images have still remained unpublished. Lee Miller in Fashion, written by Becky E. Conekin – a fashion historian, theorist and writer -, is a special view on her life’s story, seen through her fashion images. She used to portrait women’s indomitable spirit even during frightening times, being a precious resource for both fashion and global history. The main goal of the tome is to give people the chance of seeing not only the artistic and photojournalistic side of her career, but also her unique taste, by pictures and memos, illustrations and self-portraits. See for example the photo taken at Picasso’ studio, her posing topless at a surrealist picnic. All the images are held at Miller’s final home, Farley Farm in East Sussex, England.

Francesca Crippa

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14/10/2013

Trending: Barber Shop

Haircuts follow trends exactly as clothes do. Having said that, mustache and beard, symbols of modern hipsters or simply an aesthetic choice, are definitely in vogue right now. As a natural step forward, men from Europe to USA, started needing a specific place for taking care of their facial hair, and it wasn’t the case to visit a common hairdressers. That’s probably the main reason why the barber shops are back. Even though the technology in this field has reached high levels and grooming oneself has become easy – and very fast too – the original old school shaving is still perceived as an art form, and a virility ritual, too appealing to be ignored.

To feel like James Dean or Don Draper, one needs more than just a good barber: a comfortable and stylish leather chair, the small retro shaving tools and the typical barber’s poles, to mention the basics. It seems like it’s working for real: some of the traditional or pioneering shops even organize workshops to teach the interested how to perform the correct grooming ritual. Considered also as a meeting place for socializing, while choosing between the typical Italian grooming and the American one, barber shop is yet another proof that vintage strikes once again.

Francesca Crippa

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10/10/2013

Red Lips Through the Decades

The use of lipstick dates back to ancient times. During one period it was considered suitable for high society, and during another it was only to be considered acceptable for prostitutes. Dating back to 1770, a British law was proposed to the parliament, stating that a marriage should not be allowed had the woman worn lipstick before her wedding day. Times have somewhat changed, fortunately. But if we take a look at the 20th century until the present day, how has the wearing of the iconic red lipstick changed during the decades?

During the early 1920s, dark red lipstick was fashionable and was worn to form a cupid’s bow which was inspired by actress Clara Bow. Flappers wore lipstick to symbolize their independence. During the 1930s and 40s lipstick was very scarce due to the war, and young women and teens were discouraged to wear red lipstick as it was still associated with prostitution. By the 1950s movie actresses such as Marilyn Monroe, Rita Hayworth and Elizabeth Taylor were wearing red lipstick and the glamorous Hollywood starlet look was born.

During the 60s, teens started to wear alternative colour lipsticks such as pale shimmery pinks, and even white became fashionable as it was used to make lips as pale as possible. Red lips were less fashionable during this period. The 1970s and 80s saw an introduction of black lips due to the punk and Goth subcultures, though Madonna’s red lips were symbolic during her tour in the 80s.

Today women wear red lipstick worldwide, and it has become a classic. It is probably the best loved beauty product portraying many different assumptions of the wearer; assertion, confidence, power, sexuality and prowess.

Tamsin Cook

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09/10/2013

Skate: The New Black?

Amongst magazines’ pages, on the catwalk or simply as a mean of transportation during the fashion weeks: skateboard is definitely on-trend. We have recently witnessed the coming back of 90s fashion, not only wedges or cropped T-shirts, but also a more general grunge attitude. Comfy pants, large tees, Vans and snapback: the typical skater look is here.

From sport to fashion, the deck itself has become a fashion accessory some seasons ago, when famous brand such as Céline and Stella McCartney both exploited its appeal for their commercials. From that moment on, many photographers and stylists started shooting it as an accessory along with bags and jewelry.

The skateboard culture has never disappeared for real, since its very beginning – back in the 70s – kids from all over the world have been fascinated by the piece of wood with four wheels. The fact that the fashion world took something from a subculture and made its own, it is surely not a new phenomenon, but this time the all matter created a certain tension between the two – opposite – fields. Like when Marc Jacobs launched his own skates and on the web comments were negative, accusing him of having created an object for being hanged on walls rather than used on the street; or when last February Jeremy Scott was been charged with plagiarism of cult Santa Cruz graphic.

It seems like, even though this kind of trend has probably increased skate brands’ sales, real skaters keep sticking their nose up when they see models wearing heels on a deck.

Francesca Crippa

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08/10/2013

A Funny Thing Happened

During the last few seasons the world of fashion has rekindled the love for the old 80s flame. Humor has once again become part of the runway. Whether it’s in the form of ironic statements or whimsical prints in a pop art kind of way, fashion seems to have developed a higher sense of humor. The question is why is this happening?

When looking at the SS14 runway shows, one can note all kinds of different humoristic touches. At Ashish the Coca Cola brand was used in a way that puts product placement in a new light, and can be argued to put an ironic spin to consumers’ brand awareness in an Andy Warhol kind of way. Devastée and Fay put forth childlike prints in the form of scribble and cartoon print. The cartoon aspect – being used a lot during the past seasons – could perhaps be viewed as a paraphrase of nostalgia, fragments of the childhood that have materialized into clothing.

At Moschino humor and whimsy culminated in a modernized Alice in Wonderland tale. Whimsy could also be found at Kenzo where a reference to fishing created not only humoristic but also a political statement. The humorous side of fashion gives another take on apparel and can be said to create a balance to chic and minimalistic silhouettes as well as discuss and materialize the changes in the world. Through humor fashion has also proved to possess an ambiguity that reinforces the creativity and power of the industry. It keeps things interesting.

By simply viewing the upcoming season, the use of humor in fashion can also be claimed to be a way of creating a pastiche of society, culture and memories. Referencing all type of artist, be it Andy Warhol or Lewis Carroll, clearly stating that the fashion world is more than just a surface. However it is important to keep the balance in mind and not go overboard. A joke that is too obvious isn’t that funny.

Victoria Edman

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07/10/2013

Style Suggestions: Bombers are Back

A key trend for Fall Winter, the bomber jacket is a staple of urban style. Originating as a pilot jacket in WW1 it has evolved through time into what is a must have item in every man’s wardrobe today. Keep the rest of your outfit simple and let the jacket stand out as the focal point of the look. A plain white tee and bomber is timelessly cool.

Up left: A.P.C., right: Paul Smith, bottom left: Band of Outsiders, right: Maison Kitsune.
Styling by Vanessa Cocchiaro

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03/10/2013

Spring Denim

Historically worn by Genoese Navy sailors in the 1500s and then popularized by Levi Strauss during the 1870s gold rush, the robust cotton fabric has been reimagined countless ways since its laborious beginnings. The denim was available just in few washes, sizes and without stretch. Thankfully, all that’s changed and now the variety of Spring looks from our favorite designers is delightful and refreshing; it’s no longer confined to a pair of jeans. From boldly striped trousers to boyfriend shorts to the dress you can wear to the office or for a night out, here are the top denim trends for Spring Summer 2014.

Chiara Tiso

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30/09/2013

Style Suggestions: Homecoming

Fashion Weeks are coming to an end and after a month of fashionable traveling between NYC, London, Milan & Paris, we’re getting on a flight home. It’s time to take a couple of days off, change the heels for a pair of sneakers and revel in the comfortable pieces from our wardrobes.

Pants Paul and Joe, jacket J Crew, watch Casio, bag Les Essentiels de la Vie, shirt Cecile, shoes Converse.
Styling by Vanessa Cocchiaro

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25/09/2013

Style Suggestions: Dressing French

Paris Fashion Week is a perfect occasion to visit the city of love, passion and – most of all – couture. While we want to fit in, we also want to stand out, so what to wear?

Bag Lanvin, shirt A.P.C, shoes Pierre Hardy, skirt Chloe
Styling by Vanessa Cocchiaro

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25/09/2013

The Last Sartorialist

Tailoring is a long-lasted tradition often closely connected to a meticulous care for details. Going to Italy, that also regards the care for the finest of fabrics and a constant fight to protect what is left of the pride in the label of ‘Made in Italy’. In our quest for quality we encountered a few of the grand names who still talk about sartorialism with their deepest affection.

In today’s mass productive society, a brand that can carry out a complete production process – from the selection of raw material to a made to measure suit – is worth a mention. Ermenegildo Zegna might be a well-known luxury brand and one of the most famous – still family-driven – enterprises in Italy but the name of Zegna is also known for Zegna Wool Mill. It’s the absolute basis of the Zegna Group and has been passed down through four generations of ‘Zegnas’, often credited as pioneers when it comes to the refinements of menswear fabrics.

Another company that knows quite a lot about doing it from scratch, and doing it well, is Vitale Barberis Canonico. “If a job’s worth doing, do it yourself”, are the words meeting you when entering this brand’s universe. For those who know, Vitale Barberis Canonico is a prestigious name when talking about Made in Italy, and as true sartorialists, they don’t only provide their clients with fabrics specially produced for tailor-made suits, they also educate them in the art of wearing a suit. The section on the website dedicated to Q&A’s, answers to the questions of when to wear a pocket square, which colours are allowed on which occasions and how to find the perfect tie-knot for your character.

Talking about fine fabrics, one cannot leave out the name of Loro Piana. The company has been one of the leading manufacturers of cashmere and wool since 1924 (and under other name combinations before that). If the recent 80% take-over by the giant LVMH is a sign of an attractive business or a need of economical funding can be discussed but the fact that the many high level brands to which Loro Piana sells its fabrics, happily announce the usage of it, should be a quality mark in itself.

The trip through the mills should also mention names such as Angelico and Colombo, two other major players in the world of wool, cashmere, cotton, linen, silk and suits. Knowledge and craftsmanship working alongside science and the assets of the nature have set the standard high, and we dare to say that these Italian market players have had more than one finger in that game. What unites them all is their mission to offer the finest of fabrics with a promise to never compromise on quality – or on a perfect tie-knot.