13/04/2012

Kraftwerk Retro at MoMA

Kraftwerk Retro at MoMA

How much are you willing to pay to see Kraftwerk? The question loomed large on the 59,280 distressed minds who’d uniformly failed to get tickets the morning of February 22nd. “You are waiting in the queue,” the screen repeated for hours on end. “You do not need to refresh, this page will automatically redirect you when it is your turn to purchase tickets.” For the 99%, that turn never came. No surprise―the legendary electronic pioneers retrospective eight night stint at MoMA only had room for 400 people per night, and a quarter of those tickets went to Volkswagen to give away in raffles and promo plugs. The rest were shuttered to the Craigslist gutters, where the cheapest ticket would set you back a month or two’s rent.

Kraftwerk have been called many things: the Beatles of pop, the godfathers of hip-hop, the founders of electronic music, etc., but they’re also very funny, though you’re likely find water in hell before you see Ralf Hütter laughing. Are they trying to be? For a bunch of humans bent on disappearing into the technology they embrace, not bluffing is very important. “This show will be performed by robots and no one I know will attend!” one fan whined, and he was right. No one knew any real humans who were going, just like how no one knows how Kraftwerk makes the sounds they do, especially in a live setting. The aura that surrounds the music is almost as mysterious as the men who make it.

But there is something deeply ironic about four Germans making funky music while standing stoically behind pods, tinkering with computers, synthesizers and, according to one MoMA employee, iPads. They’re pop stars, yet their hips don’t shake, and I’ve never seen their eyes blink. Their attention to detail is astonishing, kind of like watching a master mechanic pound out a five-cylinder engine from sheet metal, only Kraftwerk’s engine is responsible for churning out some of the best pop singles of the last 40 years: “The Robots,” “The Model,” “Autobahn,” not to mention entire albums: Trans-Europe Express, The Man-Machine, Radio-Activity. So yeah, they work like robots, all day in night in their legendary Kling Klank studio just outside of Düsseldorf, but the music that comes out of it continues to be strangely warm and innately human.

Lane Koivu

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12/04/2012

Reykjavík – The Other Scandinavian Fashion

Reykjavík – The Other Scandinavian Fashion

When thinking of Iceland, what first comes to ones mind might be far-flung landscapes and hot-tempered volcanoes, or one of Iceland’s most famous exports Björk. Singer/composer/musician/actress, known for her critically acclaimed albums as well as for her eclectic wardrobe. Somewhere here, between the scenic surroundings and artistic multi-talent, we are tuning in on what Reykjavík Fashion Festival (RFF) is aiming for. By gathering all that creative energy into one single event they form a common platform where the local as well as the international audience can discover fashion, design and music in the various venues that the city has to offer.


Being an emerging designer is hard enough in any country, but maybe even more so when being based on, well, let’s call it an island. The creative industry of Iceland has been growing over the past years, and promising creative individuals have been trying to go overseas, but with an often limited marketing budget and a not so obvious fashion scene, the way to reach out might become a little bit more jolty. Internet and social media have all their glory, but where does it take you if the contact stops there? The fact that the RFF for 2012 doubled the number of attendees is in itself an indication that the interest for the country has gone up and the focus during this year’s edition was not only to showcase the most skillful of creative minds but also to prepare them for an entry into the international fashion business. The interest and support from industry leaders and authorities are an important element in the success of young designers and in order to foster the Icelandic fashion, awareness has to be raised. It is for this reason that events like the RFF becomes so important for the country and the designer it holds.

Speaking of the designers. Scandinavian fashion is famous for its well-tailored and clean silhouettes, but the Icelanders take a leap and gives us a wider arrange of provocative variety. Sure there are the simple lines evoking the beautiful shapes of the body, but Reykjavík Fashion Festival also offered shows in the category of dramatic extravaganza. Even though a few of the brands no longer have their base in Reykjavík, the collections and identities of the companies still marks the importance and value they put in their heritage. The fashion world in Reykjavík has become an exciting place where modernity meats tradition and like every other Fashion Week the surrounding events are as important for the ambiance as the main event itself. The spots around the city showed off the musical industry of Iceland, one that might be as important to the country as the blooming design business, but the RFF 2012 also introduced the city’s first ever Fashion Night Out.

A small economy such as Iceland might never measure up with the importance of the main fashion cities, but they can for sure fight for their earned right to a few days in the spotlight. By fostering rosy designers and offer a few days of alluring nature, Reykjavík Fashion Festival might just become a stop to consider on the fashion calendar.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Images courtesy of Ruediger Glatz

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12/04/2012

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11/04/2012

Sporty Sophistication by Siki Im

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Sporty Sophistication by Siki Im

After a few seasons of general praise, and after having won the prestigious Ecco Domani-prize for best men’s wear in 2010, The German-born designer Siki Im of Korean-descent is the man of the hour. The fact that Siki Im is a multicultural half-breed stands very clear in his design. In his latest collection, the Rei Kawakubo bulky-silhouette is juxtaposed with the European penchant for Jil Sanderian neo-minimalism.

Come fall, Im has taken a peak in the rear-view mirror and paid a homage to his own high school jock-phase, during which he played basketball for five years, and classic American athletic wear such as Nike and Champion held a firm grip of his wardrobe and everyday life. At that time, The Chicago Bulls and Michael Jordan were in their age of glory. Therefore, their uniforms and sneakers have provided with inspiration for Siki Im’s up-coming season.


He even mentions Rocky’s Russian opponent Ivan Drago in Rocky IV as an influence; thus, the fluffy box-hair cut has been resurrected, accentuated by black and reddish sweatbands. But never mind the 80’s action movie allusions, the collection hoovers in a completely different dimension of modern sophistication, which could be explained by the fact that Im has once worked under the wings of Karl Lagerfeld and Helmut Lang.

Except for safe card such as black and grey, the collection presents a wide array of nuances from the red colour spectrum, featuring scarlet sweatshirts, burgundy blazers, coral slacks and ruby drawstring-tunics, all effortlessly layered together with goofy popcorn-print shirts and bomber jackets.
“Most people think my designs are very serious and avant-garde, but I really like it when some people say my collections are funny”, Im admits.

According to himself, he prefers to work with men’s clothing since it’s easier for women to wear menswear than the other way around. “The clothing can be worn comfortably by either sex”, he insists, “I think what’s important is to be comfortable.”

Petsy von Köhler

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10/04/2012

Kristina Gill: Tea Time

Kristina Gill: Tea Time

Tea is all I drink in the winter. As the temperature rises, I start to say goodbye to hot tea, and begin to brew cold tea. In the winter I’m a pretty conservative tea drinker – Earl Grey, English Breakfast, Assam, and Chai. In the summer though, all of the great blends from Mariage Freres and Palais des Thes are perfect to drink ice cold. Without sugar, of course. Afternoon tea is, however, just an excuse to have a little something sweet to eat. When I’m home I pull out my plate that I bought at Liberty of London in advance of the royal wedding. I do that to be reminded of the pomp and circumstance of tea, or simply just to have a little fun.


Kristina Gill

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10/04/2012

DIY – Can We Make It On Our Own?

DIY – Can We Make It On Our Own?

There’s no need to say that the modern man is a lazy beast. While our brains are getting more and more fuzzy, our hands are becoming a mouse shaped claws. While our lives were getting more and more comfortable, we were left our homo habilis nature sink into oblivion. While our fathers were able to build houses from scratch, we get anxious at changing a lightbulb. The materialist culture has taken away our autonomy, depriving us of the happiness only crafting things with our hands could bring.

The recent ‘revival’ of DIY culture is only a myth or pure fashion, as we still rush to Ikea as soon as we need a simple shelf or a working desk. Even though probably we are all fed up with the DIY preaching, it doesn’t seem to have taken real effect on us. As the spring cleaning sessions have already begun, it should be important to remember that you can actually re-use stuff we want to get rid of and maybe even make something by ourselves.

Among the endless DIY book list, there are three we feel you should be looking at. The first in order of appearance, given its recent publication, is Thomas Bilass‘s “How to Make it Without Ikea”. The second volume in the series isn’t that much about actual practical advice, but more about teaching us how to think outside the box, doming our materialist impulses and rethinking our daily routines.

Scaling up on the list, we can’t but remember Vladimir Arkhipov‘s “Home-Made: Contemporary Russian Folk Artefacts” book. The russian collector has gathered an enormous archive of anonymous objects that people made for themselves, conditioned by limited resources and an overabundance of problem-solving spirit.

Last but not least, even though you might have it over the top, Enzo Mari‘s “Autoprogettazione” can’t be left out. With the recent “Autoprogettazione Revisited” and “Autoprogettazione 2.0″ (to be presented this year during the Salone in Milan) it remains a true Bible. Not only because of the quality of Mari’s projects, but because its true intent was building awareness regarding the process of design while crafting these beautiful objects.

Arrived at this point, we cannot avoid quoting Richard Sennett: “craftsmanship names the basic human impulse to do a job well for its own sake, and good craftsmanship involves developing skills and focusing on the work rather than ourselves.”

Rujana Rebernjak

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08/04/2012

Sunday Breakfast by Love For Breakfast

Sunday Breakfast by Love For Breakfast

Listening to the Grimes‘ song Genesis, the window is a bit open and a draft of wind is blowing through.

Tea is warm on the table, the prickly pears stolen last weekend at the seaside peeled, honey runs on toast and yoghurt met strawberry jam.

Breakfast is ready.

Alessia Bossi from Love For Breakfast

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06/04/2012

G Star Raw And The 3rd Dimension of Denim

G Star Raw And The 3rd Dimension of Denim

During the next year, the most stalwart piece of clothing will turn 140 years – the jeans. The denim pants have come a long way since Levi Strauss and Calvin Rogers launched them in the commercial spotlight, and made them a crucial part of the everyday working life of the humble Northern American peasants.

Today, the label G Star Raw is the brand du jour who has seen into the future and brought innovation to their previous and current collections. At the right moment, when we were overfed with 3D-film productions, G Star decided to bring that peripheral dimension into their clothing line instead.

While 3D-pants might sound like something out of a cheap science fiction-production, on the contrary, the intricately constructed Elwood and Arc pants incorporated new techniques to the classic denim tailoring. To achieve an asymmetric tapered fit that adjusts to the leg, twisted seams and inseams were used. The jeans have a bow-legged shape when laid flat, but has an ergonomic 3D-effect around the leg when put on.

Ergonomic functionality has also been a priority in the current collection, with one style influenced by motorcycle rider from the swinging old days. In the 1920’s and 30’s, the importance of flexibility and comfort was never undermined; a fact that G Star Raw felt like it was time to remind the world of. Therefore, the new 5620 Dimension pant has evoked those qualities, through advanced moulding techniques, while staying true to their 3D-concept which adds volume for body parts in motion, such as the knees, in five different directions.

G-star Raw recently revealed their newest concept for the fall/winter collection – a line named Deep Tones, featuring denim that have undergone a formulated molecular treatment which will prevent the fading of colours when washing. This treatment has been applied to the Elwood and Arc pants. Aside from denim, experiments have also been carried out on wrap dresses and coveralls; by baking the denim, a more crinkled texture was obtained.

Since its inception in 1989, G Star Raw has so far been at the vanguard of jeans innovation; the challenge however lies in continuously moving forward with the technological 3D development while approaching ethical and environmental issues in new dimensions as well. Since 2011, the brand has lead a close collaboration with the multi-stakeholder organisation MADE-BY which aims to ameliorate environmental and social conditions in the fashion world. All hail to innovation, but let’s not forget that with great technological progress comes great corporate responsibility.

Petsy von Köhler – Images from the SS12 collection 

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06/04/2012

The Lifespan of a Fact by John D’Agata and Jim Fengal

The Lifespan of a Fact by John D’Agata and Jim Fengal

There has been a considerable amount of debate lately over whether or not essayist John D’Agata has the right to present fiction as fact. The muscled author behind “About a Mountain” and the lightly controversial new book “The Lifespan of a Fact” seems to be spending a fair amount of his non-teaching time championing an old mantra of David Byrne’s: “facts all come with a point of view, facts don’t do what I want them to, facts just twist the truth around, facts are living turned inside out.” A friend of facts D’Agata ain’t.

To set it straight for those who haven’t read the book, D’Agata claims duty only to Truth with a capital T, not the pesky facts that try and stop him along the way. To him, the two seem to be mutually exclusive. The problem with D’Agata assigning himself to the role of God (an authority that permits a fictional story to be guised as a “lyrical essay” and sold to the public as “journalism”) is that it ultimately gets in the way of the story he’s trying to tell. D’Agata alters facts and dreams up realities that only exist in the depths of his imagination, often for arbitrary reasons. He changes things small―the number of Vegas strip clubs, from thirty-one to thirty-four; the color of a van, from pink to purple―and large: the history of Tae Kwon Do, relying on “coincidences” that aren’t in fact real, making up quotes and attributing them to people he never spoke to. In short, writing fiction. All of which begs the question: Is D’Agata more concerned with his own prose than he is with the subjects he writes about?

“I don’t think it’s ok for us to say, ‘In your memoir about growing up and liking pie, it’s completely ok to alter the facts’,” D’Agata said in a recent interview with NPR. “’But when dealing with huge issues like suicide or nuclear waste, it’s not ok.’ The subject in this essay is amped up to get us to pay attention.”

Wait, aren’t these weightier cultural issues the ones we need to verify? Most people don’t give a shit if you lie about what kind of pie you liked growing up, because your preference for pie is inconsequential. The details surrounding a suicide epidemic―or, say, nuclear waste―are not. Unless I’m missing something.

Monologist Mike Daisey was recently put through the meat grinder for presenting his controversial theatre piece about Apple’s overseas labor practices (“The Agony and Ecstasy of Steve Jobs”) as journalism on This American Life. Turned out Daisey fabricated a large part of his story, including gruesome stories about the working conditions of Chinese labor workers. No good, right? “It was a fine bit of theater,” wrote David Carr of the New York Times. “It worked less well as a piece of journalism.” Speaking for the general public, Carr went on to condemn Daisey’s apparent supposition “that you have to cheat to come up with remarkable journalism that tilts the rink.”


D’Agata cheats while simultaneously arguing that he’s not a journalist. Like Daisey, who also claimed he wasn’t a journalist, he presents his work as if it were journalism. But why publish a fictional essay as non-fictional, narrative journalism? And why is “The Lifespan of a Fact”, a book made up of fabricated conversations and scenarios, as a non-fictional insider’s look at the fact-checking process? Why is there no disclaimer? Why not just call it what it is―that is, why not call it fiction?

Because Lifespan wouldn’t fare nearly as well if it was. (Does anyone remember A Million Little Pieces?) Neither would the essay that anchors the book, “What Happens There”, about a Las Vegas teenager who jumped to his death from the roof of the Stratosphere Casino in 2002. Given the subject matter, and D’Agata’s approach to it, it’s clear he wants what he’s saying to pass for reality, at least in the eyes of his readers. Throughout the book Jim Fengal, D’Agata’s fact-checker, asks, “What gives you the authority to introduce half-baked legend as fact and sidestep questions of facticity?” John replies: “It’s called art, dickhead.” Unfortunately, this conviction―that artistic merit must come at the expense of the audience’s integrity―makes reading him more trouble than it’s worth.

Lane Koivu

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05/04/2012

Meeting Tim Coppens

Meeting Tim Coppens

Another time around, Tim Coppens created some hard-earned murmur about the eponymous brand during New York Fashion Week. With references drawn from the film ‘Drive’, tailoring marked by extreme care in details and a color palette adding sophistication to the otherwise dynamic and slightly aggressive aesthetics, Coppens presented his third menswear collection, FASTER, for Fall/Winter 2012/13. His image of the modern man goes beyond the classical structure for menswear. “I don’t think there is one specific clothing that fits every man”, the designer said when the Blogazine caught him for a quick chat somewhere between New York and Belgium.

In your F/W12 presentation, details from motocross and ice hockey gear had a strong influence on the details and athleticism is reflected in your collections. What is your personal relation to sports?
I grew up riding BMX and skateboarding and did that for about 14 years. The reason why I went to certain cities with friends was to skateboard and find the best spots. The last couple of years I have been into long distance running and cycling. I am attracted to individual sports where it’s more about going further and further, getting to know your limits. For me it’s a really good way to think and structure ideas. I’m not a big fan of group sports but I do like sports like ice hockey, rugby and American football where it’s more about the warrior athlete dressing up in battle gear getting ready to defeat the other team. The dress code and the protective armor are really interesting objects.

Does any specific type of music or places inspire you in your work?
I listen to a lot of music. But I also notice that I filter a lot more than I used to do, and doing that I also realize that I go back to the old records that I bought and loved to listen to, whether it’s Kenny Larkin or the Screaming Trees. I don’t have a favourite band. Places and music are connected.

The Fall 2012/13 collection is beautifully composed with the materials complementing each other and the meticulously worked-over details catching the eye. “I like compact materials, whether they are cottons or wool, et cetera”, Coppens said when we talked about what combinations of materials her prefers to work with. When talking about Tim Coppens, it is impossible to not speak of colors. His previous collections have been noted for some of the graphical elements that we don’t see for Fall. Instead we find the continuous subtle feeling of color blocking, given some extra vivacity through a few well-placed dashes of bright blue. The collection, which is described to have an aggressive edge and is very masculine and active, yet have a sophisticated side to it. We asked Mr Coppens if this somehow reflects on how he sees the ‘Tim Coppens man’: “I think so, yes. The masculine and sophisticated edge is something that is really important to me. Although, I have noticed that a lot of women like wearing my bomber jackets.”

Coppens, who was born in Belgium, graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerpen, and 2012 he is being noted as best new menswear designer of the year with the Ecco Domani award. Antwerpen and New York are both renowned fashion cities and the home of several noteworthy designers. Today he has chosen to live in New York, where he, as previous mentioned, also shows during Fashion Week. “I prefer spending my time in New York because it’s home for now. But I do like going back to Belgium from time to time.”

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe with a special Thank You to Tim Coppens

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