04/09/2015

The Best of Stockholm Fashion Week

With Stockholm Fashion Week fresh in mind, we have summarized the best collections from the upcoming designers who showed their work on the Swedish runways. The one who thought this would be a minimalistic bonanza in black, white and grey was wrong. Sure, some collections represented the typical Scandi chic, but many designers have shown the opposite, making us reconsider the terms with which we talk about Swedish (and Scandinavian) fashion today.

The brand Edwin Trieu was founded in Stockholm three years ago by designer Edwin Trieu. He combines Scandinavian and Asian fashion aesthetics resulting in contemporary pieces for modern women, that is both wearable yet unexpected. The philosophy behind the pieces is also a modern one, with the goal of making clothes that can transit from day to night and last for several seasons not just in terms of quality but also when it comes to the look.

Under the label Swedish fashion talents, several young and promising names showed their collections on Stockholm Fashion Week. Arethé Stockholm, Emelie Janrell, Inez-NY, Isabella Idberg, MLTV Clothing, Simon Ekrelius and Sofia Eriksson are seven brand names to keep in mind. They are all representing their own unique design aesthetics but share the same passion for turning their their visions into actually wearable clothes, and have what it takes to become the next big names.

It was the first time showing on Stand for Stand, but the brand sure made an impression with a collection completely made of leather, and it wasn’t just pants and jackets sent down the runway. For this season the designer Nellie Kamras has taken her design aesthetic to the next level by challenging the traditional leather shapes and focusing on creating pieces that you might not expect to be made of leather. The kimono is a great example of such a piece, and a collection favourite.

Giorgi Rostiashvili might have been the most talked about designer during the week, and there is a reason why. His collection was well executed, feminine but with an edge that turned the pieces from good to great. Still doing his master at the Royal Academy in Copenhagen and already awarded with the ELLE and H&M’s scholarship for upcoming talents, the future seems very bright for Rostiashvili.

Another brand to watch is certainly By the No., founded by the designers of V Ave Shoe Repair, Lee Cotter and Astrid Olsson. The duo are once again tearing down the barriers between fashion and art in their own, clean yet fascinating way. Their ambition is to find and develop hidden patterns and generate shape and movement – well, their mission seems completed.

Hanna Cronsjö 
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25/05/2012

Johanna Pihl – The New Rookie In Town

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Johanna Pihl – The New Rookie In Town

Swedish designer Johanna Pihl is one of the 5 hopeful nominees for The Swedish Fashion Council’s Rookie Award 2012.

Since 2005, S.F.C has organized the competition in order to promote young talents in the Swedish fashion industry. “Passion for design, interesting concepts and promising brand value” are what the jury with H&M’s head designer Margareta van den Bosch in the lead are searching for, and winning the competition means heavy exposure, networking support and PR-activities en masse. The coronation will take place during Stockholm Fashion Week the 15th of August.

“Being nominated for The Rookie Awards feels amazing, since it gives you opportunity to meet people in the business. At the moment, I’m in the middle of the process of creating my S/S 13 collection, and when you have a recently established fashion brand it’s so important to get the word out”, Pihl acknowledges.

Stockholm-born Johanna Pihl has studied fashion design at London College of Fashion, worked for avant-gardist Ann-Sofie Back and had an exhibition at The Victoria and Albert museum. Last year, she won the Young Fashion Industry Award which gave her the chance to present her collection during Stockholm Fashion Week. Along with brands such as altewai.saome and Alice Fine, Pihl has been named ‘the future of Swedish fashion’.


“The people in the business have always been very kind and supportive, it makes you feel appreciated. The hardest part, which is also the most intriguing part is that there’s always so much to learn every single day, there’s always a new challenge to face, but the performance pressure forces me to break boundaries, which I think is very important in this business.”

With her current collection, she introduces a contemporary tomboy-woman, with the most prominent piece being a cut-out leather jacket with detailing reminiscent of ancient day’s war breastplates. Behind every garments is a journey into the relationship between the anatomy of the body, and the ambivalent curiousness with body modification through plastic surgery. Sharp silhouettes, manipulated fabrics and high technical finish are three details to summarize Pihl’s design philosophy.

“The Collection is to be worn as a second skin. The garments represent our cast, stretched and distressed over our mechanical form. By using trapunto techniques the garments demonstrate that our anatomy is engineered and calculated like an engine, showing that by altering and reorganizing our appearance through plastic surgery we diminish our human design.”

Petsy von Köhler – Image courtesy of London College of Fashion, Patrick Lindblom, James Finnigan & Timothy Hill

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