04/11/2014

The Velvet Season

Velvet is one of the oldest and richest fabrics; notable for its peculiar texture, during the Middle Ages wearing clothes made of velvet was a sign of nobility. However, the allure of velvet was not only know by aristocracy, as the material became a symbol of religions, from Christianity and Judaism to Islam. In the XVII and XVIII centuries, velvet turned into an interesting material for furniture design, too.

For Fall/Winter 2014-15 catwalks, designers have taken to celebrating the luxurious fabric, by giving it a contemporary flair and increasing its naturally chic and sensual vibe. Emilio Pucci went for manlike mono-color suits in dark orange and dark green, with flared trousers and tight jackets. The striking detail? Models wore outfits that matched their skin and hair colors. Erdem, on the other hand, followed a darker path. His choice of velvets vests relied on an all-black colour palette, emphasized by floral lace decorations, while the cuts remained slim and refined. On Saint Laurent’s runway, Hedi Slimane played with the Seventies mood (again), exploiting the culture of rock music and its tireless groupies. The resulting pieces were very short – kind of childish – dresses, jackets designed to be worn open and inevitable mini skirts. While the velvety trend is best appreciated on clothes, it was also embraced in accessories design, shoes in particular. From Medieval inspiration proposed by Dolce&Gabbana, to theatrical pieces put forward by Gareth Pugh: the is definitely the velvet season, and we can all feel a little bit royal.

Francesca Crippa