04/06/2010

Erik Bjerkesjö / Ballroom 010


Erik Bjerkesjö / Ballroom 010

While trapped under a most opportune cloud of volcanic ash during Salone del Mobile this April, we caught up with Swedish designer Erik Bjerkesjö, who is in the midst of launching a shiny new – eponymous – label. The fresh upstart, complete with an atelier and showroom tucked into the pristine and happening Mariatorget area of Stockholm, is the fruition of a long process of refinement for the shoe designer’s vision of a synthesis of beautiful, thoughtful design and entirely manual, bespoke production.
The label’s aura is unmistakably Scandinavian in its honest detailing and purity of materials, but is pollinated with sly details and a heavy dose of exclusivity that, upon close consideration, transcends stolid notions of luxury footwear and effectively infringes on rococo mystique.

The result is an intelligent and endlessly sophisticated collection, much like Mr. Bjerkesjö, who himself is always incomprehensibly stylish and pores over his work through handmade replicas of Yves Saint Laurent’s iconic spectacles. Although Bjerkesjö’s brand is a newborn, his signature subversive style has been a long time in the making. He completed advanced studies at Polimoda under the guidance of Patrick de Muynck and in his nascent career has already garnered a considerable amount of praise.

Last year his work was featured alongside Rick Owens and Ann Demeulemeester in the obsessively curated and always progressive window of Luisa Via Roma, a holy institution of creative fashion patronage in Florence, known for being a barometer on upcoming designers and a prime showcase for conceptual artists like Felice Limosani.

He’s also exhibited at Copenhagen International Fashion Fair, and has also cooperatively shown with We Are Group, the Swedish bureau that also works with H&M, Ann-Sofie Back & Comme des Garçons. Fancifully called Ballroom 010, the inaugural collection is being entirely hand produced both by the designer himself and in Tuscany by the same master craftsmen who construct for some very famous, very drool-worthy – and very secretive – heavyweights. Needless to say, quality for the bespoke pieces is above and beyond superlative. Keep an eye out for accompanying projects, including work with video artist Igor Zimmerman and an all-out shoot with a certain – as-of-yet-secret – supermodel. Oh, the mystique! The collection officially drops in July 2010.

By Tag Christof – images courtesy of Erik Bjerkesjö

Share: Facebook,  Twitter  
03/06/2010

Pablo Arroyo – Pitti Immagine Uomo 2010


Pablo Arroyo – Pitti Immagine Uomo 2010

Year after year Pitti Immagine Uomo is growing within the walls of Fortezza Da Basso in Florence. If you’re pleased to walk between a huge amount of clothing stands, your eye will focus on a wide range of well known brands, but most of the times your attention will be going over new upcoming designers, which are actually the most amusing part.
This year, our talent Pablo Arroyo was in charge to represent 2010 Pitti mood on the fair poster, shooting Ella Kandiba@Next and Nick Rae@Fashion, both in a suit-styling by Ada Kokosar.

By Elisa Lusso – Potography Pablo Arroyo – styling Ada Kokosar

Share: Facebook,  Twitter  
31/05/2010

Marco Klefisch for Italia Independent


Marco Klefisch for Italia Independent

Marco Klefisch seems to be pretty productive in this period, well at least he’s keeping his mind busy on many different projects. This time the concept was realizing Italia Independent Spring Summer 2010 campaign composing a picture with an illustration.
Lapo Elkann – here shot by Alessandro Villata and illustrated by Klefisch – pretty fancys being the face of his own brand. Another Italian L.A. Lapers?

By Elisa Lusso – photography by Alessandro Villata courtesy of Italia Indipendent

Share: Facebook,  Twitter  
28/05/2010

A Shaded View On Fashion Film – ASVOFF – Milano


A Shaded View On Fashion Film – ASVOFF – Milano

After Paris, Mexico City, Seoul, and Moscow, ASVOFF is finally making a stop in Milano. In addition to its annual selection, its Milan addition for the festival has a section dedicated to the theme of “light”, chosen by Diane Pernet, curator and creator of the festival. All the videos comissioned by Diane Pernet in collaboration with Italian Vogue will be one minute short. Diane has always believed in the video as a form of contemporary communication capable of cultural blending, as much as tool facilitating free creativity that explores the intersection between fashion and motion.

[vodpod id=ExternalVideo.944498&w=630&h=496&fv=%26rel%3D0%26border%3D0%26]

The exhibition is coordinated by Federico Poletti and Sara Maino and presents a hundred documentaries and films.The quality is very high, from “Beauty” by the Italian artist Cosimo Terlizzi, to “Sunshowers” (the Festival trailer) by the videomakers Leverock Elisha Smith and “Auguries Of Innocence” from New York based videomaker Jason Last.

By Stefania Seoni – video courtesy of ASVOFF – images courtesy of Jacopo Turrini.

Share: Facebook,  Twitter  
21/05/2010

Adidas Originals/ Mamy Rock!


Adidas Originals / Mamy Rock!

Who had the chance yesterday night to listen Ruth Flowers a.k.a. Mamy Rock dj set would probably tell you she rocks. Indeed! 70 years old grandma from Bristol, once retired and widowed, Ruth Flowers realized her wish to be a dj after attending his grandson birthday in a club.
An unusual mix of techno with fifties sounds is what characterizes Mamy Rock’s musical choice. Wanna try? Her last EP “Still Rocking” is now in stores, while her last night performance at Magazzini Generali presented By Adidas Originals and Istituto Marangoni is surely becoming an event to remember.

By Elisa Lusso – Images Courtesy of Adidas Originals

Share: Facebook,  Twitter  
20/05/2010

Ana Murillas – L’ Uomo Vogue


Ana Murillas – L’ Uomo Vogue

Portuguese football player Simão Pedro Fonseca Sabrosa a.k.a. Simão is featured inside last Italian L’Uomo Vogue with a couple of shots by Daniel Riera, styled by our passionate Ana Murillas. Midfiel player inside Atlético Madrid – all the times antagonist of the other county town team Real Madrid – Simão naturally fits these mediterranean colors and mood.

By Elisa Lusso – Ph. Daniel Riera – Courtesy of L’Uomo Vogue

Share: Facebook,  Twitter  
18/05/2010

Petri’s not dead, the Buffalo boys return


Petri’s Not Dead, The Buffalo Boys Return

In this picture – Stylist Olivier Rizzo evokes Buffalo Style for Arena Homme +

Ray Petri, probably the most influential stylist of all times, may have died in 1989, but his aesthetic legacy still lives on. You can see it all around you, from menswear fashion to music videos, on all levels, everywhere.

Scottish born Petri, grew up in Australia before escaping back to London in 1969, a turning point for music and fashion, or more likely the point of no return with the emergence of the punk and countercultures. Only ten years later, England had become all about style clans, from Punk to New Wave, from Acid Sportswear to New Romantic, from Rude Boys to Mods, from Ragamuffins to East Indians, it all met in the streets, on their way to the many clubs, and Petri was there in the middle, picking elements from here and there, establishing a savant fashion mix. His vision was going further than just dressing up models, he over viewed the whole concept, and did everything but taking the picture. Everything we have now as a base of menswear stylistic approach is of his creation: mix the muscly bulky models and replaced them with teenagers from the real world, out the total looks and instead dive into wide and wild influences pairing Italian tailoring and Jamaican style with bicycle messengers sports gear. A now common recipe to almost any photo shoot found in fashion magazines, the boxer shorts and combat boots, the underwear and tailoring, and so on. But most of all, he built a sexual tension unlike anyone had managed before into his looks. It is an edgy balance of tough and sweet with attitude, part of his obsession for bad boys.
His work deeply impacted street culture, with his contribution to magazines as The Face and i-D, and his works with the likes of Bowie and Neneh Cherry, and it all came together under the name of Buffalo, a name apparently borrowed from the security staff at Paris 80′s club Les Bains Douches, where large men wore army bomber jackets with “Buffalo” written on them.

[vodpod id=ExternalVideo.941707&w=630&h=496&fv=]

Now, can you even think of one denim label whose menswear advertising owes nothing to Petri? You can’t, can’t you. Well, that’s because Petri’s Not Dead.

Over two decades later, everyone quotes Buffalo (making it almost meaningless), as an easy way to label anything slightly modern and mixed culture for advertising agencies. Most often, nevertheless, its citing feels empty, because the subcultures and countercultures Petri quoted devolved into ruins of themselves or even became purely mainstream styles, copied over and over ad infinitum. Overdose. There will not be a new Buffalo unless we see new countercultures emerging, a hope that seems increasingly unlikely these days. We can only keep hoping, and give our support to new movements coming up, fingers crossed…


By Alban Adam – image courtesy of Arena Homme + and The Face.

Share: Facebook,  Twitter  
14/05/2010

Oppure II / Fashion towards New Media


Oppure II / Fashion towards New Media

“Fashion moves towards the new media” is the subheading of the second round of “Oppure”, an exhibition curated by Federico Sarica, who wisely put together some young artists working within the fashion industry: 3 fashion photographers – Stefano Galuzzi, Ilaria Orsini and Van Mossevelde+N – a director, Luca Merli and 3 fashion stylists – Rossana Passalacqua, Roberta Rusconi and Tanya Jones.

One time, they would have been called ‘insiders’, but since the fashion social sharing phenomenon puts everyone in the front row and down to the backstages, insiders just don’t exist anymore, that’s why we need another aesthetic evolution. Generically documenting a story that acts on a timeline instead of photography steady poses, filming thus becomes an immediate choice to go through this transformation.
Oppure is opening its doors on friday 14th May at 8 p.m. at
Spazio Monotono, Vicenza (Italy).

By Elisa Lusso - images courtesy of Stefano Galuzzi, Ilaria Orsini, Luca Merli.

Share: Facebook,  Twitter  
11/05/2010

Roger Deckker / Self Service


Roger Deckker / Self Service

French stylist and fashion editor Marie Chaix fulfilled Roger Deckker’s wishes with classical 70’s glamourous inspirations in this black/white shooting for Self Service. Framing faces and postures under the perfect light and dynamic was the primary duty for Deckker, while the casting by Natalie Joos just made the rest.
Filippa Hamilton, contract model for Ralph Lauren for the past 6 years, Rie Rasmussen, top model in the early 00’s, Ana Claudia Michels one of all time Riccardo Tisci’s favourite and Tasha Tilberg, naturally bloom in the entire mood.

By Elisa Lusso – Image courtesy of Self Service Magazine

Share: Facebook,  Twitter  
04/05/2010

Richardson Magazine


Richardson Magazine

A feminine take on sex and pornography is probably one concept still lacking, or at least not yet properly developed in the magazines we’re used to buy.
UK stylist Andrew Richardson once thought about this shortage and he did realize a teasing homonym publication due to fill this kind of girlish demand.
Richardson Magazine seems to shout that ‘girls just wanna have fun’ and yes, the new issue is finally back on the shelves after a long break.
Just try to set your minds on a girl perspective, then start thinking about how will it be finding features of Sasha Grey by Glenn Luchford, contributions by Carolee Schneemann, Valie Expert, Steven Meisel, Bunny Yeager, Genesis Breyer P-Orridge, Tracy Ermin, Annie Sprinkle, Malcolm Mclaren, David Rimanelli, Tristan Taromino, Amy Kelner, Simon Ford. Need anything else to run at Colette and get your copy?


Bela Borsodi from A1


Glen Luchford from A1


Mario Sorrenti from A2

By Elisa Lusso – images courtesy of  RICHARDSON MAGAZINE

Share: Facebook,  Twitter